Shedbuilt and Scumbuilt

Ask away, I have no quams with anything. Whether its negative, positive or requests for knowledge lol. I may not be a "gear head" by the forums terms (yet) but I know my way around a thing or two lol.

Forgot some photos of the Kmac IM. Have some more when he had it installed. Have to dig them up.
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JohnnyTightlips said:
What shielding did you use and is that red rtv to hold it? Mine is hot garbage and needs replaced might be good to do when the engine is all out.
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It's some pretty pricey stuff a buddy of mine got from his race team. They did the entire engine bay and entire trans tunnel on thier BMW. Got it In a 10' roll. It's a 2 or 3 layer fiber glass insulated mat. I dont know of the numbers/name off the top of my head or if there is anything on the box but I'll look later when I can grab it.

Felt like I was working at Hatteras yachts again in NC. Rolling around in fiberglass all day.
 
I take it that you are running no return on the PI side?

That manifold looks like he cut an OEM flange off the stocker and welded a sheet metal block to it. Nifty. I remember Kmac, he had really interesting stuff made.
 
Mauro_Penguin said:
I take it that you are running no return on the PI side?

That manifold looks like he cut an OEM flange off the stocker and welded a sheet metal block to it. Nifty. I remember Kmac, he had really interesting stuff made.
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Correct, return less system.

He had it bench tested and it flowed rather well. I'll have to dig back into his thread on MSF again. I believe your right with the chopped flange. It's all aluminum that's for sure.

The trick has been finding a TB to use since he changed through a couple different TBs and a blow through setup. But I think I narrowed it down and should just be a matter of swapping pins around on the new TB to match the speed.
 
Coming together nicely man.
Just curious how you plan to run the Fuel Reg without it returning to the tank?


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TRBLSM said:
Coming together nicely man.
Just curious how you plan to run the Fuel Reg without it returning to the tank?


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There's quite a few EFI regulators that are block style regulators It utilizes the bottom port and and has two outlet ports with one plugged. As opposed to a bypass regulator with a return.

If you search the two there's alot of good info on the differences of both.
 
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JohnnyTightlips said:
A few people are running the 2011 2012 2013 2014 CHRYSLER 200 3.6L THROTTLE BODY 05184349AC. It's 75mm and you can swap some wire as far as I know. Finding the harness sucks butt so I would just check junk yards or ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2012-...epid=1130281351&hash=item56a258b842:rk:1:pf:0
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SOB. This is the throttle body I've been in search of. Lmao. It was known that he used a Chrysler or Buick TB at one point but I couldn't find it. The opening on the TB flange is actually 75mm and that TB makes perfect sense.
 
The TB I picked up is a 6cyl ecoboost TB. Almost identical to the speed TB just 10mm larger lol.

Well see. Maybe I'll grab one of those TBs as well, get it setup and then just bring it with me when it's time to slap it on the dyno. Swap it out and see if it makes any difference which would probably be neglidgable. But in the name of science why not. (Shrugs).

Also have some 3" charge piping off a unit at work that I am going to try and fab a cold side with. As this IM actually has the runners sloping down from the chamber and will have the TB significantly higher and further toward the passenger side of the engine bay.
 
@JohnnyTightlips when and if you ever get a chance. No rush. Can you mic or measure the bolt pattern on that TB?

The mustang one I got is 2.5"x3.1"ish the Manifold is 2.5"x2.9"ish.

I'm on 4 hours of sleep in the last 3 days and couldn't keep the calipers steady but it 100% doesnt fit.
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2011 2012 2013 2014 CHRYSLER 200 3.6L THROTTLE BODY 05184349AC - 75mm
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- let me know if that's enough
 
More than enough. Thank you. If that's a matching Mazda bolt pattern to the OEM speed TB then I'm an idiot and could have answered this myself lol.

The only measurement that matches is the cross hatch/diamtere measurement.

I can push the calipers down to the sizes you have from that and they sit centered in the thread hole instead of up against the edge.

More research is in store I guess lol

May possibly just have much uncle weld a new known size flange onto it.
 
It doesn't match up to stock bolt holes. I'm going to have to modify it or make an adapter plate.
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That's stock gasket on Dodge tb.
 
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