Shedbuilt and Scumbuilt

Yea that didnt match either. At a loss now for what he could have used lol.

I'm also in the middle of a dilemma in figuring out if I want to run a return to the tank with a bypass style regulator. I just dont like the idea of the warm fuel going back into the tank. For a few reasons. Itfp health and obvious fueling reasons. I'm still about 80% on the dead head setup with a blocking style regulator. The itfp regulator should do fine at minimizing any lock or spikes in the system.

So I'm toying around with the idea doing it with an inline cooler mounted on the frame rail about midway between the regulator and the tank.

Winter is too long to be planning and thinking of things like these lol
 
KingScumbag said:
Yea that didnt match either. At a loss now for what he could have used lol.

I'm also in the middle of a dilemma in figuring out if I want to run a return to the tank with a bypass style regulator. I just dont like the idea of the warm fuel going back into the tank. For a few reasons. Itfp health and obvious fueling reasons. I'm still about 80% on the dead head setup with a blocking style regulator. The itfp regulator should do fine at minimizing any lock or spikes in the system.

So I'm toying around with the idea doing it with an inline cooler mounted on the frame rail about midway between the regulator and the tank.

Winter is too long to be planning and thinking of things like these lol
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Me and Nick are planning out our PI setups currently. We are most likely going with a return less style system and NOT using a return. Sho told us that he doesn't use a return for his system and is making 575+ on it. Saves us having to route a hose and drill into the stock basket to plumb a fitting for the return. I know Ken ran a return for his track car and knows more about that way than I do.
 
Pros and cons of both. No matter what way you look at it.

I'm still going run a regulator at the rail. Whether its returnless or bypass is still TBD. I'm just weird. I like to have that ability to adjust it if needed. Even if it's to bring down the pressure as I dont see my self surpassing or wanting to surpass 500hp. I'm a firm believer these cars are the best from between 350-450hp on a medium frame for pleasure and enjoyment anywhere. I like to comfortably get to a goal instead of wringing it out to that goal. Then rape sauce it everywhere I go. (Shrugs)

Just like i dont need to split the supply at the firewall with a fuel dist block. I could just tap it off the hpfp but in my head i want them to both have thier own source from the supply line (shrugs again)

I still may drill, install a bulkhead fitting and cap it at the hat for now in case I change my mind. We have 90° bulkhead fittings at work. Just gonna send it.
 
Adding a return is a s simple as running a hose off of the rail to wherever you want with a regulator.

But since you are already set on running a regulator, I suggest just going for a return style while you're there.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
_Mazdarati said:
Adding a return is a s simple as running a hose off of the rail to wherever you want with a regulator.

But since you are already set on running a regulator, I suggest just going for a return style while you're there.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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I'm aware of how simple it is haha. It's the fuel returning to the tank that deters me. I'll add a fitting at the tank should I run into issues with the returnless system. Which I doubt. But the option will be there and will be just a matter of running that line.

If I do a return then I'm going to want to add a cooler and then more fittings and then yadda yadda.

@JohnnyTightlips I say I've given up on the TB but that's. Not true, I've been scowling the webs nonstop lol
 
20181204_160816.jpg I also got some injector pigtails through work for the low low, had to get 8 but I have 4 extra if anyone needs or wants them.
 
Bigelow said:
With a return style how much heat is really being put back into the tank?
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Probably not alot, especially with a decent E mix. I have the weather strapping and interior of my hood gutted and I was having a really hard time keeping my BATs down this summer with the stock IM. Thing glows and stays glowing once its soaked. That's another thing that's been making me want to get this IM squared away. If I were to keep the OE IM and run the PI I can guarantee the fuel returning is hotter than you want to be dumping back into the tank. Then your just heat soaking your fuel.

Again, how much? To many variables. Hose type. Routing. Etc.

Thinking too much into it? Maybe, but I cant really help it lol
 
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I hear you. But a return pi system teed off stock fuel line will be double regulated and would only return on wot pulls when demand is there and most of your fuel will be consumed correct. Unless running a crazy oversized system
 
Well if your itfp is pumping out 75 psi as that's what I've seen the stock in tank regulator does and at the rail is set to 60psi on an external reg. Your bleeding off that excess being pushed from the ITFP anyways. Which is why a returnless system is so successful anyways without anything else, other than a line to the capped rail works. The ITFP regulator is already at the point where it ends up being the perfect system without an external regulator of any kind. Shos system is obviously a good example of that.

This is unless your running a completely separate system from the ITFP. Like from a fuel cell or external pump from the tank.
 
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I haven't been ignoring the mention @Sho, I looked at my car and all the wires are the same color for the TB harness and it's almost impossible to unplug it without taking the intercooler piping apart. I found what Scott sent me when he was wiring it up. Hopefully this helps in the meantime if you still decide to go with this TB @KingScumbag .
Chrysler TB Connector
oaCN8ut.jpg

Mazda TB Connector
LhG2L7T.jpg

Scott said pins 1 and 6 were backwards I guess on the Mazda diagram or vice versa. Either way they would just swap the wires. Don't mind the rest of the text for CEL
oRK9VZd.png
 
Yeah I want to say he got it on like the 4th or 5th try, if I get time I'll pull the harness off the car and check. I'll just need to move some stuff around, there's zero room with that 3 inch cold side and 16wfab.
 
A little update.
Ended up ordering that Chrysler TB and Pigtail to make an extension/adapter to PNP the TB.

I've decided to run a returned system seeing as I planned on installing the fitting into the tank for a return anyways. Picked up a bypass FPR from a local speed shop. Appears to be a high quality aero knock off. 100$ retail he sold it to me for 50$.

Also after messing around with the jegs fitting and hose I didnt care for the quality. Returned all of the jegs hose ends and hose.

I found these guys https://hotrodfuelhose.com and they have some pretty solid bundle deals. Picked up thier -6 bundle. 2 90s, 2 45s, 4 str and 21' of hose. 130$ shipped with coupon. It all came in tonight and is actually extremely good quality stuff.

Stock replacement in tank filter came in. Supposed to be 60° tommorow so I may get that back into the car tommorow and maybe started cutting and mocking these lines.

I also sold the T3 s4 and will be looking into a different turbo setup.

20181220_194306.jpg IMG_20180702_124841_900x.jpg
20181218_144508.jpg
 
Hey dad, when you did the AEM pump did it just drop in with no modification? Plug right in? And wiring differences? Looking at that same AEM and wanna make sure it all workies okay.
 
_Mazdarati said:
Hey dad, when you did the AEM pump did it just drop in with no modification? Plug right in? And wiring differences? Looking at that same AEM and wanna make sure it all workies okay.
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Correct, the AEM filter doesnt work so order a new OEM filter. Unless you want to cut out the piece from the retention cap the filter snaps Into.

Also swap the white sleeve on the top nozzle over to the AEM.

You'll see it in the pictures I put up.
 
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