Sho's 2007 ms3 build
- Thread starter Sho
- Start date
- Watchers 56
Nice smooth power! Are you still returnless on the Aux PI setup?
Sho
Silver Member
Yessir! No return line. Just a single aeromotive stealth 320 itfp feeding both the DI and PI out of the stock basket.
Sho
Silver Member
Pretty much only folks in Ohio with unique/big power setups. Not so active in the mazdaspeed game anymore since he sold his car.
He's contributed plenty to the platform back in the day, and smartly moved on
BTW you can see people's sigs if you turn your phone horizontal on the mobile site
Can read link below
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/married-to-mazdaspeeds-stories-of-progress-and-lols.3344/
Bigelow
Greenie Member
The name rings a bell for sure. Been in the Mazda thing a while just not active. We are close on the builds. I' ported head over sized valve and cams. But running a 5858. Just started my motor today after 2 years sitting in my garage. So looking at every option for tuners and who is good these days
Sho
Silver Member
In case anyone is wondering , these fit perfectly in my hatch.. with my hatch brace taking up a good amount of space, a spare front lca, 3 gallons of coolant, a gallon of oil, and plenty of room to spare... With just removing the privacy tray thing lol
Also, this turd doesn't look bad for having 236k on the chassis now, spending its entire life in Ohio bullshit weather. It'll be getting a paint correction and GTechniq coating next month
Also, this turd doesn't look bad for having 236k on the chassis now, spending its entire life in Ohio bullshit weather. It'll be getting a paint correction and GTechniq coating next month
Sho
Silver Member
Guess I should put this here
87* ambient in the shop at the time of the pulls with 28% humidity , 108-110* BAT'S at the top of each pull.
Consistent and repeatable power!
Big Thanks to Mark for all his patience with me and the hundreds of maps he's cooked up for me since 2014 as I've changed setups a million times!
87* ambient in the shop at the time of the pulls with 28% humidity , 108-110* BAT'S at the top of each pull.
Consistent and repeatable power!
Big Thanks to Mark for all his patience with me and the hundreds of maps he's cooked up for me since 2014 as I've changed setups a million times!
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Sho
Silver Member
Flashed a new map from @Realgib3 today.
Little more boost between 4500 and 5500rpm, which should flatten out the tq curve in that area. And a little more wgdc up top so it holds 36psi from 6500 to the Rev limit instead of peaking 36 and falling off a bit. Once we get some decent weather , I'll hop back on that dyno and see what she do!
Little more boost between 4500 and 5500rpm, which should flatten out the tq curve in that area. And a little more wgdc up top so it holds 36psi from 6500 to the Rev limit instead of peaking 36 and falling off a bit. Once we get some decent weather , I'll hop back on that dyno and see what she do!
Sho
Silver Member
So Monday, heard a hissing sound and smelled fuel when working on the car..
Got to work on the car today, since I was off work...and found fuel leaking out of the DI fuel rail at cylinder 3.
The cause:
Next, it was time to get the generic conventional oil out of the car that was put in, post head gasket replacement. This was essentially to flush the system and make sure any coolant didn't tarnish a quality oil.
For the life of the motor, I've been running Brad Penn / Penn grade 10w-40. But I've decided to try something a little different this go around because I can get it at cost, and it ends up running me the same price as the Brad Penn
It's tribodyn oil, in the 15w40 variety. Main thing that caught my eye is how it clings to everything (maybe snake oil? But I'll get a UOA Done like I did for the Brad Penn)
It's a cloudy blue color as opposed to the hulk blood green of Brad Penn, not that it matters lol
I'll probably try the gear oil as well at some point to replace the Torco RTF that's currently in my trans
Got to work on the car today, since I was off work...and found fuel leaking out of the DI fuel rail at cylinder 3.
The cause:
Next, it was time to get the generic conventional oil out of the car that was put in, post head gasket replacement. This was essentially to flush the system and make sure any coolant didn't tarnish a quality oil.
For the life of the motor, I've been running Brad Penn / Penn grade 10w-40. But I've decided to try something a little different this go around because I can get it at cost, and it ends up running me the same price as the Brad Penn
It's tribodyn oil, in the 15w40 variety. Main thing that caught my eye is how it clings to everything (maybe snake oil? But I'll get a UOA Done like I did for the Brad Penn)
It's a cloudy blue color as opposed to the hulk blood green of Brad Penn, not that it matters lol
I'll probably try the gear oil as well at some point to replace the Torco RTF that's currently in my trans
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Gotta say I don't trust it, and I put extremely little faith in the lathe video. Very reminiscent of the one-armed bandit, and it sure seems like every other oil additive trying to prove their goodness.... Slick 50, Lucas, Sea Foam, Liqui Moly, Marvel, DuraLube, seems like everyone and his brother makes some kind of snake oil. But I'll be interested to see the UOA. Do you know someone involved in this TriboDyn deal?
Sho
Silver Member
We'll see what the UOA says. I just know someone thats a dealer that was willing to sell it to me at cost ,provided I run a UOA on it.
I will say, I did drive 300 miles today and all my mirrors were usable at highway speeds for the first time in years lol. And I did get a hand calculated 27mpg on E48.
Let me get a few thousand miles on it and some good beatings/wot pulls, and I'll send a sample off to Blackstone labs for testing and see what's what. In the mean time, I'll just have to play it by ear.
[doublepost=1533443396][/doublepost]On another note, went to summit racing today, and found out I had $100 in store credit from racking up points on purchases over the last 7 months. So... I'll be ditching the 255/50/16 Toyo R888's and going back to a 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET street s/s again.
Few reasons:
1. The Toyos are 10mm wider than the ET streets at the same "size", which required me to add an extra 5mm of spacing, which in-turn results in the tire hitting the fender any time I hit a significant bump in the road.
2. The sidewalls are still rigid enough on the R888's, even with the huge side wall; so much so that the car will change lanes on me at 6k+ rpm, even while I have a death grip on the steering wheel trying to keep it straight (reminiscent of the hankook rs3's over 400 ft/lb)
3. When I had the ET streets before, on the exact same alignment I'm running now (3k miles ago) the car would pull so straight under power, that I could actually concentrate on driving, instead of trying not to crash lol.
Also, replaced my beat up filter with a shorter AEM dry flow, in black.
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Sho
Silver Member
We'll see. The first set I had, when I got the fd wheels from a friend last fall, had 1/32nd tread depth left and were pretty beat up from many burnouts and passes at the track and I squeezed 2500 or so miles out of em lol before they weren't safe to drive on dry roads on anymore . New ones come with 6/32 of tread on em. Probably not ideal if you put a ton of miles on your car, but now that I have a daily, the speed only comes out on nice days when I feel like having fun. I won't be doing any standing burnouts on them. But theyll definitely get some use for Mexico trips where a stiffer sidewall tire won't hook for me in 3rd gear.
The treadwear rating that's stamped on the tire is literally "000".
So I dont think anyone should rely on them lasting any sort of length if they drive a lot lol
Got the tires mounted today and put my new to me wheels with tires less than 1k miles old on the pu as well.
Sho
Silver Member
@_Mazdarati feel free to ask questions here or via pm as to not clutter up "what you do to your ride today" thread
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