Sho's 2007 ms3 build

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Hey sho I will be building my motor in the spring. How DD friendly are the 2618’s in your opinion. A lot of times I start my car and drive off (not getting into boost of course)and it is my main concern with piston choice.
 
Hey sho I will be building my motor in the spring. How DD friendly are the 2618’s in your opinion. A lot of times I start my car and drive off (not getting into boost of course)and it is my main concern with piston choice.

They're very DD friendly in that they obviously last a lot longer than people expected them to.

On my car, What they do not like is being driven or put under any sort of load unless coolant temp is over 140* (car bucks wildly and has barely any vacuum until that point ) . I always let the car warm up to that once I found that out. The car is essentially undriveable til that point. I'm also a big believer that my motor has lasted as long as it has, because I don't just hop in it and go.
 
Yeah, however, your maintenance ethic along with your acuity to realize, and act on things that are not correct rather than continuing to just keep ripping on it also plays a major roll as well. Contrary to popular belief, a “built motor “ while more tolerant to detonation, it is not immune to lack of maintenance, its just built to handle more power in the same normal order of things, imo anyway :).

See you at 100k


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Yeah, however, your maintenance ethic along with your acuity to realize, and act on things that are not correct rather than continuing to just keep ripping on it also plays a major roll as well. Contrary to popular belief, a “built motor “ while more tolerant to detonation, it is not immune to lack of maintenance, its just built to handle more power in the same normal order of things, imo anyway :).

See you at 100k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Aww shucks .. Thanks, Russ!
 
They're very DD friendly in that they obviously last a lot longer than people expected them to.

On my car, What they do not like is being driven or put under any sort of load unless coolant temp is over 140* (car bucks wildly and has barely any vacuum until that point ) . I always let the car warm up to that once I found that out. The car is essentially undriveable til that point. I'm also a big believer that my motor has lasted as long as it has, because I don't just hop in it and go.
I guess it’s the pwc you have to have that causes that right? Do you burn through much oil?
 
Half a quart every 3k miles at 80k+.

Nothing substantial
Wow yeah that is pretty good man. Dang I hope I have as good of luck with my built motor as you! Any crutial points of the build to pay extra attention to in your opinion. I’m palnning to do a full rebuild/build. VVT, oil pump, etc.
 
Wow yeah that is pretty good man. Dang I hope I have as good of luck with my built motor as you! Any crutial points of the build to pay extra attention to in your opinion. I’m palnning to do a full rebuild/build. VVT, oil pump, etc.

My motor is such a simple setup. When it was assembled in late 2015 this is what it had done:
88mm Manley Platinum series pistons
Manley h beam rods
OEM rod and main bearings
OEM main studs and head bolts
No head workb(porting etc)
Stock valve train


At 55.5k miles
The balance shaft was deleted
Rear main seal was replaced due to a leak

At 73k the head lifted from running 550whp/440tq on stock head bolts.
Upgraded to L19 head studs at that point and replaced the head gasket.

Other than that, I only use quality oil and change it every 3-3.2k miles

I've never run straight 93 octane in it either.

From break in to 7k miles, I ran E23 mix on a pte 5858 at 22-23psi.

From 7k to 50k, ran E23 + 2000cc/min meth on a pte 5862 at 35 psi and 500whp/391 tq

From 50k to 70k ran E48/E50 on 6th port at 540whp/405tq

From 70k to present E48/E50 w/ port injection at 575whp/467tq

Car sees proper warmup each time it's driven and always brought up to full temp before shut down
 
My motor is such a simple setup. When it was assembled in late 2015 this is what it had done:
88mm Manley Platinum series pistons
Manley h beam rods
OEM rod and main bearings
OEM main studs and head bolts
No head workb(porting etc)
Stock valve train


At 55.5k miles
The balance shaft was deleted
Rear main seal was replaced due to a leak

At 73k the head lifted from running 550whp/440tq on stock head bolts.
Upgraded to L19 head studs at that point and replaced the head gasket.

Other than that, I only use quality oil and change it every 3-3.2k miles

I've never run straight 93 octane in it either.

From break in to 7k miles, I ran E23 mix on a pte 5858 at 22-23psi.

From 7k to 50k, ran E23 + 2000cc/min meth on a pte 5862 at 35 psi and 500whp/391 tq

From 50k to 70k ran E48/E50 on 6th port at 540whp/405tq

From 70k to present E48/E50 w/ port injection at 575whp/467tq

Car sees proper warmup each time it's driven and always brought up to full temp before shut down
Sounds similar to what I am wanting to do just using mahle pistons. Basically a copy of Corksports stage 1 built longblock without cams.
 
It also has 82k miles on it, has been smoking for the past 26k miles, is leaking past the seals and I want more power down the road. Gonna run the 6266 at 600whp til this current motor hits 100k Then toss in a sleeved motor built to the moon and go for 700+
Are you familiar with borg warner sizing? Is a 363sxe close to a 3076?
 
Who wants to come over and install my turbo!? Lol.

Works been crazy lately, so I haven't had a chance to even do anything with the speed aside from start it up once last week.

Once work slows down in January, it'll be time to put the new turbo on, get the valve cover powder coated, and do a few other things under the hood.

Getting anxious!
 
If I lived closer I would definitely be down to help man lol I am extremely anxious about my build and worried it’s going to take forever to tear it down and put it back together!
 
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