Slave Cylinder Leak Fix

I had this issue recently. My issue was I didn't push the rubber grommet all the way on the pipe so it just pushed it in the cylinder and not seal properly. Even though I "thought" the hose was clipped in tight but it wasn't and FAIL. Lesson learned.
 
I know this thread is primarily concerning hydraulic lines leaking, but I'd like to offer a pro tip to prevent boot leaks for anyone doing clutch replacements or transmission/engine work that requires slave cylinders to be removed...

The boot on the cylinder is compressed constantly while installed and subjected to heat over time. This makes the rubber conform and want to stay compressed. The longer you leave the cylinder removed, the more pressure you put on the boot because piston inside the slave cylinder is decompressing the boot. That's what causes it to come apart. So, either work quicker and get it back in place or use a c-clamp to keep it slightly compressed while it's off the car.
 
So, either work quicker and get it back in place or use a c-clamp to keep it slightly compressed while it's off the car.
It's been said many times to keep it compressed with a tie-wrap while it's off the car.
 
It's been said many times to keep it compressed with a tie-wrap while it's off the car.
Your right but many people forget and bam another purchase.
[doublepost=1556685773][/doublepost]
I know this thread is primarily concerning hydraulic lines leaking, but I'd like to offer a pro tip to prevent boot leaks for anyone doing clutch replacements or transmission/engine work that requires slave cylinders to be removed...

The boot on the cylinder is compressed constantly while installed and subjected to heat over time. This makes the rubber conform and want to stay compressed. The longer you leave the cylinder removed, the more pressure you put on the boot because piston inside the slave cylinder is decompressing the boot. That's what causes it to come apart. So, either work quicker and get it back in place or use a c-clamp to keep it slightly compressed while it's off the car.
True.
 
Pics aren’t showing on your post, I'm in the same position, got the new slave cylinder but the o rings are different, which o ring did you trim? The tapered one or the more square one
 
I know this thread is primarily concerning hydraulic lines leaking, but I'd like to offer a pro tip to prevent boot leaks for anyone doing clutch replacements or transmission/engine work that requires slave cylinders to be removed...

The boot on the cylinder is compressed constantly while installed and subjected to heat over time. This makes the rubber conform and want to stay compressed. The longer you leave the cylinder removed, the more pressure you put on the boot because piston inside the slave cylinder is decompressing the boot. That's what causes it to come apart. So, either work quicker and get it back in place or use a c-clamp to keep it slightly compressed while it's off the car.

When I did my engine swap my slave cylinder came apart as I was ignorant to this problem. However I was able to simply put it back together and I had no problems bleeding it and it does not leak....It seems that you are suggesting that one one need to purchase a replacement if it comes apart? Why?
 
When I did my engine swap my slave cylinder came apart as I was ignorant to this problem. However I was able to simply put it back together and I had no problems bleeding it and it does not leak....It seems that you are suggesting that one one need to purchase a replacement if it comes apart? Why?

90% of the time when the slave over-extends or comes apart like that, they tend to not seal completely upon reassembly and can leak.

If you were able to reassemble yours and it's working solid, more power to you. In the past, others have not been so lucky at that.
 
Hopefully I get a reply from this. I'm ordering a new slave for a swap and I am preparing to have to do this as I have fears the slave I order will be a revision compared to my current one. Hopefully it's not, but I want to prepare.

From my understanding, you cut off a small portion of the old seal, and just threw it over the end of the pipe (like I have in the pic), and then shoved the pipe in and put the retainer clip in? It makes sense to me but I just want to make sure I'm understanding the process correctly. If that is it and it worked for you, I might make a video when I do it to maybe add a bit of extra detail.

Appreciate it, and I really hope this works! Would save me another $100 and my time for a new pipe...

20170224_134019~2.jpg
 
Hopefully I get a reply from this. I'm ordering a new slave for a swap and I am preparing to have to do this as I have fears the slave I order will be a revision compared to my current one. Hopefully it's not, but I want to prepare.

From my understanding, you cut off a small portion of the old seal, and just threw it over the end of the pipe (like I have in the pic), and then shoved the pipe in and put the retainer clip in? It makes sense to me but I just want to make sure I'm understanding the process correctly. If that is it and it worked for you, I might make a video when I do it to maybe add a bit of extra detail.

Appreciate it, and I really hope this works! Would save me another $100 and my time for a new pipe...

View attachment 16569
No need to cut anything. The grommet pulls off easily. Or will be stuck in the old slave
 
No need to cut anything. The grommet pulls off easily. Or will be stuck in the old slave
OP said he cut 1/4 of the old seal and placed it over the pipe and then shoved the pipe into the new slave cylinder, just going off of what he said and trying to clarify it.

me confused is all
 
Sorry to revive an old thread but was reading through this thread and wanted to also clarify something that has me confused,
When i got my new slave, i took off the plastic protector it had where the pipe connects but noticed that it didn't have the small pipe grommet the old one had inside so obviously pipe line didn't seal so i went ahead and removed the small grommet from the old slave cylinder to the new one. Isn't suppose to new clutch master slave come with this small pipe grommet seal? Does this small grommet have to be replaced when doing new slave master cylinder? My question is because i went through the mazda parts and didn't see a part number for this grommet as a separately sold seal so I'm wondering if what i did was correct to swap out the grommet from the old slave to the new slave. Can someone clarify for me so i rule out my doubt? The pictures from below shows how mine also came without grommet. The grommet im talking about is the on the second picture the first one
 

Attachments

  • received_1590020721027176.jpeg
    received_1590020721027176.jpeg
    139.4 KB · Views: 45
  • received_1590156977680217.jpeg
    received_1590156977680217.jpeg
    360.6 KB · Views: 46
Sorry to revive an old thread but was reading through this thread and wanted to also clarify something that has me confused,
When i got my new slave, i took off the plastic protector it had where the pipe connects but noticed that it didn't have the small pipe grommet the old one had inside so obviously pipe line didn't seal so i went ahead and removed the small grommet from the old slave cylinder to the new one. Isn't suppose to new clutch master slave come with this small pipe grommet seal? Does this small grommet have to be replaced when doing new slave master cylinder? My question is because i went through the mazda parts and didn't see a part number for this grommet as a separately sold seal so I'm wondering if what i did was correct to swap out the grommet from the old slave to the new slave. Can someone clarify for me so i rule out my doubt? The pictures from below shows how mine also came without grommet. The grommet im talking about is the on the second picture the first one

Hey mate, how’d you go with this??
I’m currently having the same dilemma with my 06 MPS.
I don’t want to have to buy a whole new hydraulic line and slave cylinder where a $4 part may help.
is there meant to be an O-ring on that small cut out, or is there another grommet that slips over the piping and onto the black clip?? cheers
 
For those that are having some trouble or confused as I was, here’s what I did:

I have the old slave hardline (no O-ring):
7530E280-4436-451E-A411-EFFF74071312.jpeg

I placed the old-style slave o-ring into the slave cylinder first, followed by the new-style o-ring:
F8F428A0-DE69-49B8-9AB5-37FD4C9B1A00.jpeg

Then placed the hardline fitting into the slave and had to compress it pretty good in order for the retaining clip to seat fully. Stopped leaking at that connection for me. Didn’t have to cut anything or buy new hardware. Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top