StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

Which should I get for Christmas?

  • Big Fmic Core (tr9/10 or equivalent size)

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • EWG conversation for my CST4 setup

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • Rear Diff Mount

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .
i had that happen in an older car, pay careful attention to where the caliper was hitting the wheel, mine took some damage that was bad enough that i took the wheel to be repaired, you dont want to be driving around on a wheel with a groove cut into it.
 
Yeah... thanks man I will kepep that in mind! I want to get much nicer and lighter wheels eventually anyways just not a priority right now. Mine are heavy for what they are and are only 7.5” wide. I want to either rock 17x9.5 or 18x9 or something. Want a nice deep dish wheel though mostly.
 
Nvm. I was looking at an eroler1 post on the previous page in this build thread and didnt see it wasn't you that posted it
 
@StreetSpeed6 hows your suspension bushing man? mines dead AF the upper control arm so bad that the bushing is barely connected to the metal sleeve, and my car is 120,xxx miles
 
Last edited:
Eroler1 said:
haha No, it still leaks in middle of the trans and oil pan,
one culprit is the oil filter housing gasket that goes in the block,changed it with the felpro still leaks now changed it to mahle which is the OE i think? but put silicone around it.
although i installed my replacement RMS with the SST white disposable tool.
and I still didnt drive my car, Streetspeed is already at 600miles makes me jealous
my car still down since changing the bushing to russian and bent the control arm.......
then ripped the cv boots LOL
my life sucks
also my alternator started smoking since the power steering fluid drips on it while doing idle test run.....
speaking of bushing @StreetSpeed6 hows your suspension bushing man? mines dead AF the upper control arm so bad that the bushing is barely connected to the metal sleeve, and my car is 120,xxx miles
Click to expand...
Sorry you’re still having tough luck man... I was jealous that @JohnnyTightlips racked up the miles while I was busy blowing up my battery and replacing my alternator lol I actually bought all new front control arms and so far so good! I just bought a cheap kit made by Detroit Axle assuming that it won’t last as long but was like $130 shipped for all 6 front control arms, inner and outer tie rods (which I haven’t installed), and sway bar links.

I desperately need a new RMM though as my factory one is extremely bad. As far as my suspension before replacement.... The bushings had some stress tears and we’r in the best shape but weren’t completely shot (in the front anyways). I have yet to replace the rear, but it seems to be much more costly and is going to have to be replaced as well.
 
yeah i didnt do my rear too either, since car isnt driavable lol gonna rotate it.

although for the rears you might as well do the diff mount if you havent yet, also the driver rear is "weak point" another $350 upgrade from DSS, but i heard as long as you dont launch the car the stock axle is okay "roll race"

oh btw dont forget to retighten all the bolts you touched, supposed to be after 100 miles. might double check your crank bolt too, seen somebodys crank bolt started losening after 1k miles because of all vibration with jbr motor mounts BSD

damn @JohnnyTightlips im also jealous, since clean build and no major hiccups so far, solid build
 
Eroler1 said:
yeah i didnt do my rear too either, since car isnt driavable lol gonna rotate it.

although for the rears you might as well do the diff mount if you havent yet, also the driver rear is "weak point" another $350 upgrade from DSS, but i heard as long as you dont launch the car the stock axle is okay "roll race"

oh btw dont forget to retighten all the bolts you touched, supposed to be after 100 miles. might double check your crank bolt too, seen somebodys crank bolt started losening after 1k miles because of all vibration with jbr motor mounts BSD

damn @JohnnyTightlips im also jealous, since clean build and no major hiccups so far, solid build
Click to expand...
Yeah I need to double check all the suspension stuff. Just worked on it for so long I need a break haha I refuse to launch my car cuz it is really hard on it and I don’t have the money to fix it if it breaks. Otherwise im sure I would but still race light to light. I just leave kind of quick without launching it.
 
Eroler1 said:
haha No, it still leaks in middle of the trans and oil pan,
one culprit is the oil filter housing gasket that goes in the block,changed it with the felpro still leaks now changed it to mahle which is the OE i think? but put silicone around it.
although i installed my replacement RMS with the SST white disposable tool.
and I still didnt drive my car, Streetspeed is already at 600miles makes me jealous
my car still down since changing the bushing to russian and bent the control arm.......
then ripped the cv boots LOL
my life sucks
also my alternator started smoking since the power steering fluid drips on it while doing idle test run.....
speaking of bushing @StreetSpeed6 hows your suspension bushing man? mines dead AF the upper control arm so bad that the bushing is barely connected to the metal sleeve, and my car is 120,xxx miles
Click to expand...
You should probably start your own build thread.

We come here for updates on Isaac's car, not yours
 
Eroler1 said:
@Sho thanks, edited my post and deleted my stuff
@JohnnyTightlips my build isnt as fancy as you guys,. very embarrassing, to make one.
@StreetSpeed6 sorry to thread jack you man, keep us updated, i prolly stop commenting
:peace:
Click to expand...
Don’t want any discord man. I very much appreciate you joining in and giving your 2 cents on different things. I honestly don’t mind it man I just know it is a thing with guys who have been on the forums a while. No build thread is embarrassing. I started with a 200k mile motor with a bad ring and a car that has to basically be rebuilt lol Also my car is filthy as pointed out in my battery relocation thread so can’t get much worse than me bro! You’re all good don’t take it to heart haha
 
What’s up MSO Fam!! So I have an exciting announcement that I have been holding off on posting in hopes of having my compression check done but obviously don’t lol Am attempting to make my own compression tester using a hose from my leak down kit I already have but haven’t found the valve I need to hold the pressure in the gauge yet.
D54C105D-6E86-4A7E-AC34-F56B6B5993E3.jpeg
I want to give a HUGE shoutout to @mangosmoothie for so generously donating a CST4 to my build!! He also sent a 3.5 bar map sensor and a 3 port ebcs and I am so stoked and grateful! Needless to say it is already in the works for being prepped for my car. I am running a catless setup so he advised me to port the wastegate.
09BE6715-A898-43AD-8117-0B3BBFF54F97.jpeg
That is what I am now working on after spending a few days getting the housing to come apart lol For anyone who has this issue, I suggest my method.... PB Blaster soaked into it for a couple days and and use a drill and a flathead. Popped right apart with ease and didn’t damage anything.
0981C2DF-3519-4A27-9C0A-C3D7455D6EBA.jpeg F9D74365-BDB1-4E09-AAE7-D068C5B29D95.jpeg
Thanks so much Casey and I will run the crap out of it don’t worry! Haha I mean in all honesty how bad is boost spike when the turbo can’t max your motor out anyway? Lol

Thanks guys for your continued support and I will continue my search for allllllll the powaahhh!
 

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JohnnyTightlips said:
You won't need to worry about the creep so much as needing fuel for it. That turbo will max out stock fuel pretty easy. You're going to enjoy that turbo for sure, will be a blast on a built motor. Congrats! Also XOXO @mangosmoothie
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Good to know cuz I would rather max out my fuel then be at 250hp like I am now haha But if it spiked and leaned out too much that would be no bueno for sure. Hit like high 13’s at wot and watch the insides fly out. That would suck lol You think tuning for high 11’s to 12 would still technically be safe?
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Good to know cuz I would rather max out my fuel then be at 250hp like I am now haha But if it spiked and leaned out too much that would be no bueno for sure. Hit like high 13’s at wot and watch the insides fly out. That would suck lol You think tuning for high 11’s to 12 would still technically be safe?
Click to expand...
11.75 is what you will want to shoot for on 93 pump. Your tuner will know all this.
 
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