VoodooShark's V2 Buttz Build
- Thread starter VoodooJef
- Start date
- Watchers 33
It would without much complaint but that is an assload of torque to ask of a daily driver. I' prefer to carry some hp deeper into the rev range and have a broader power band.
voodoo2crue
Greenie N00B Member
Nice numbers, if you don't mind, what are your peak boost, timing numbers. My car will be ready soon and will be running almost identical setup to yours.
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Boost was at 28.2, timing was fairly conservative at 16 max. Keep in mind those aren't ideal numbers. Lots of torque makes for lots of power but it was done by 5500. The manifold has everything to do with it. Plenty of pressure to make tq but not enough flow to keep it up top. I suspect the ST mani will make it much easier to push power toward redline. Find out in a week or so.
Flyhigh
Greenie Member
You have a verdict?
I`m not sure there was even a problem. I kinda got the feeling they were just buying some extra time after stalling time and time again.
nothing really to update. Have been intentionally putting a lot of miles on the motor just to get it to a point where it`s reliability is beyond reproach. She`s at about 6K now, UOA was absolutely perfect. Other than a small vacuum leak in one of the push connect meth fittings there has been not one single issue. It`s floating right around 500whp (I get between 495 and 525 consistently) but still peters out pretty early. Finally have all the little bits and pieces to put the ST manifold on, so that project is slated for next weekend. Not really expecting more power, per se, but to keep what it is making headed north all the way to 7200rpm.. As fun as it is having 500+ft/lbs of torque it`s just too much for a fwd car that`s daily driven. If I can keep the torque curve between 380 and 425ish all the way to redline it`ll easily make 500hp with the better flowing intake mani (it takes roughly 390ft/lbs at 7K to make 525whp).
Oh, and for those who may be considering such: A super light flywheel and a very grabby ceramic clutch will take you right back to your first days of driving a stick shift. 27 years I`ve been driving a manual and I`ve stalled this damn thing so any friggin` times.
[doublepost=1509811538][/doublepost]Oh, and I can add this: the 4032 pistons so far are kicking ass. Not really enough mileage to tell, but compression tested at 200 across the board. They have seen 30+ psi of boost and many times 7200rpm pulls.
Oh, and for those who may be considering such: A super light flywheel and a very grabby ceramic clutch will take you right back to your first days of driving a stick shift. 27 years I`ve been driving a manual and I`ve stalled this damn thing so any friggin` times.
[doublepost=1509811538][/doublepost]Oh, and I can add this: the 4032 pistons so far are kicking ass. Not really enough mileage to tell, but compression tested at 200 across the board. They have seen 30+ psi of boost and many times 7200rpm pulls.
well f***ing finally got the ST manifold on. I have some good news for the people wanting to run it and are concerned about piping solutions! I used...ZERO....piping other than what I already had. I jockeyed around some couplers and converted the hotpipe to feed the driver`s side. That of course brought cold side on on the pass side of the car, eliminating the interference with the oil filter/cooler assembly and I spent zero dollars on any BS custom piping.
Let me be very clear: it was a quick and dirty install. I really just wanted to see if it would all be possible without custom piping so I did have to pursuade a couple of connections into place. I`ll be picking up a couple of 30 or 45 degree couplers and solving that tomorrow. I cut zero pipes to fit. None. No cutting. I wanted to keep my bead rolled ends from the start. It was the goal of the true grit garage install.
So far it runs great. Hits load at MUCH less boost, idles smoother and quieter (at least when it`s warm). Once I am 100% confident in the reliability of the setup I`ll get back to tuning it. The tune is 98% done anyway so I`m going to finish it up on the dyno. All I`ve really got left is to convert it to direct port meth (instead of the TB plate) and it`ll be "done".
Pics and more install details to come when there is more light.
Let me be very clear: it was a quick and dirty install. I really just wanted to see if it would all be possible without custom piping so I did have to pursuade a couple of connections into place. I`ll be picking up a couple of 30 or 45 degree couplers and solving that tomorrow. I cut zero pipes to fit. None. No cutting. I wanted to keep my bead rolled ends from the start. It was the goal of the true grit garage install.
So far it runs great. Hits load at MUCH less boost, idles smoother and quieter (at least when it`s warm). Once I am 100% confident in the reliability of the setup I`ll get back to tuning it. The tune is 98% done anyway so I`m going to finish it up on the dyno. All I`ve really got left is to convert it to direct port meth (instead of the TB plate) and it`ll be "done".
Pics and more install details to come when there is more light.
For anyone following along who may care to know, cold starts with the ST mani/vcts deleted are pretty tame. I had heard horror stories about how terrible it would act but it`s a non-issue (it wasn`t an issue with a mildly ported oem, either though). If I do the part throttle start trick to let it idle normally it`s g2g in about 10 seconds. If I just start it like normal it takes about 20. It doesn`t struggle to run or idle or anything of the sort. For reference, it has been between 37 and 40 degrees in the mornings.
So here`s a walk through of how to get the ST manifold on without needing to buy custom piping (mind you this will 100% depend on the piping kit you have. Ie, the Cobb kit would never work). I had the CX Racing kit. A couple of pipes had been damaged and replaced but everything was the exact size and shape.
All it took was this: disconnect the hotpipe from the 180 on the passenger side of the IC, but leave the 180 in place. Set the hotpipe aside for now. Remove the section of piping between the driver`s side IC inlet and the hard pipe with the BOV in it (leave that attached to the TB for now). There is a small 45* pipe that will not be reused. // When you have the manifold installed you will see that you can run the hotside to the driver`s side IC 180 with no clearance issues (you could even trim the pipes but my experiment was to see if it would work unmolested first). That side is done. Now, the "not quite 90" that has the BOV flange in it. That fucker won`t be quite as cooperative. It fits, but it takes a little bit of southern math. The flange will want to interfere with the oil cooler, but just a tiny bit. If you have a longer coupler it makes what I just said moot. I had to lop off a damaged section of the coupler so it was barely long enough. Had it been original length it would have been perfect. On to the pass side IC 180. You may or may not have naturally good alignment here. The pipe fits, length wise, almost like it was meant to. Being not quite 90* puts the alignment off a bit. A hump coupler solves any problem here. Again, in the effort to do it without spending a single extra dime, I simply loosed all of the couplers involved, got it lined up and snugged them back down. Done. Fits, did a leak check before I fired it up, not a peep. Zero dollars.
It`s functional and holds 28psi just fine (except for the time the vac hose came off my bov and I blew the coupler off the TB). I`m going to change up the install just a tiny bit now that it`s on and I know what can be done. Going to move the BOV bend to the hot pipe to get a smoother curve there and get rid of the blue 90* coupler you see in the pic. In its place I`m going to run a simple 2.75" aluminum L from the TB to the IC, eliminating the reducer straight off the TB in favor of a straight coupler (I`ll reuse the one that`s there to go from the L pipe to the 180). When it`s said and done I will have removed about a foot of piping and several bends. The ST mani install itself was pretty painless. Do yourself a favor and install the TB before you drop the manifold in, and don`t forget to hook up the vac hose to the back. The whole thing took about three hours, and that included finagling the piping into place. Haven`t really had to change anything in the tune, but I have noticed some changes. It hits load targets much easier, and it was getting enough more air that it was getting a little lean in the top end (yes, that means more power. I dialed back boost up top until I can get her just a tad more fuel to keep up.)
All it took was this: disconnect the hotpipe from the 180 on the passenger side of the IC, but leave the 180 in place. Set the hotpipe aside for now. Remove the section of piping between the driver`s side IC inlet and the hard pipe with the BOV in it (leave that attached to the TB for now). There is a small 45* pipe that will not be reused. // When you have the manifold installed you will see that you can run the hotside to the driver`s side IC 180 with no clearance issues (you could even trim the pipes but my experiment was to see if it would work unmolested first). That side is done. Now, the "not quite 90" that has the BOV flange in it. That fucker won`t be quite as cooperative. It fits, but it takes a little bit of southern math. The flange will want to interfere with the oil cooler, but just a tiny bit. If you have a longer coupler it makes what I just said moot. I had to lop off a damaged section of the coupler so it was barely long enough. Had it been original length it would have been perfect. On to the pass side IC 180. You may or may not have naturally good alignment here. The pipe fits, length wise, almost like it was meant to. Being not quite 90* puts the alignment off a bit. A hump coupler solves any problem here. Again, in the effort to do it without spending a single extra dime, I simply loosed all of the couplers involved, got it lined up and snugged them back down. Done. Fits, did a leak check before I fired it up, not a peep. Zero dollars.
It`s functional and holds 28psi just fine (except for the time the vac hose came off my bov and I blew the coupler off the TB). I`m going to change up the install just a tiny bit now that it`s on and I know what can be done. Going to move the BOV bend to the hot pipe to get a smoother curve there and get rid of the blue 90* coupler you see in the pic. In its place I`m going to run a simple 2.75" aluminum L from the TB to the IC, eliminating the reducer straight off the TB in favor of a straight coupler (I`ll reuse the one that`s there to go from the L pipe to the 180). When it`s said and done I will have removed about a foot of piping and several bends. The ST mani install itself was pretty painless. Do yourself a favor and install the TB before you drop the manifold in, and don`t forget to hook up the vac hose to the back. The whole thing took about three hours, and that included finagling the piping into place. Haven`t really had to change anything in the tune, but I have noticed some changes. It hits load targets much easier, and it was getting enough more air that it was getting a little lean in the top end (yes, that means more power. I dialed back boost up top until I can get her just a tad more fuel to keep up.)
Chpspd
Greenie Member
Yep. Just happened to get my hands on an EWG manifold. There is no performance gain whatsoever to EWG, and I don`t have issues controlling boost so I saved the $400.
Chpspd
Greenie Member
I did it strictly for the sound since I was sporting an almost stock sounding exhaust.
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So this week sometime I`ll finally be wrapping up the loose ends of the methanol system. Been running a pretty healthy dose of it with a TB spacer, using a 12 and a 7gph nozzle. The new setup will be four DO4 nozzles direct port and the DO7 will remain at the TB. It`s only 4gph more than I`m running now, and will be a rough total of 1880cc. Yeah, a lot. This will have fueling for everything the turbo can make, but not more. I don`t want to pay for dyno time until I know I`m not changing anything for a while, so that should also happen soon, hoping for before Christmas day. If/when the time comes for an even bigger turbo I`ll have to entertain an entirely different fueling solution (it`ll be PI), but as it sits I`m right there at 500whp. It`s already more power than the car can make use of so I`m not really planning on going further, performance wise. The suspension is done, the engine is done, the brakes are on par with the build. I`ll do a little bit of interior work, maybe give the exterior a bit of a facelift and call it a day. Next spring I`ll pick up a cheap used small SUV or something to daily so the Speed can actually get a break.
No changes to follow up with, per se. Upped the methanol system and kept blowing the feed lines so I built a quasi-fuel rail setup for it. Not on yet, we`ll see how it holds up.
The significant part: I`ve put 30K miles on it in just under a year. Compression is still 200 across the board, oil analysis has come back perfect every time even with extended intervals. I`ll be taking it on a 4K mile round trip road trip in July and I`m honestly not worried one bit.
The only issues have been unrelated to the build. Broke the clutch pedal assembly, in turn stressing the master cylinder, in turn stressing the clutch. Doing the clutch next week and going with a carbon kevlar disc vs ceramic again. I don`t drag race, the kevlar will hold all the power I can make and give me triple the lifespan.
The significant part: I`ve put 30K miles on it in just under a year. Compression is still 200 across the board, oil analysis has come back perfect every time even with extended intervals. I`ll be taking it on a 4K mile round trip road trip in July and I`m honestly not worried one bit.
The only issues have been unrelated to the build. Broke the clutch pedal assembly, in turn stressing the master cylinder, in turn stressing the clutch. Doing the clutch next week and going with a carbon kevlar disc vs ceramic again. I don`t drag race, the kevlar will hold all the power I can make and give me triple the lifespan.
Took a while to get the ducks in a row but the new clutch showed up today. I am proud to also say that I have a fledgling sponsorship deal with Clutch Masters.
30K miles out of a ceramic clutch in daily stop and go Dallas traffic isn`t a let down, but I don`t drag race so I don`t need that aggressive a clutch (especially at the track) so the carbon fiber disc should give me triple the life expectancy and still hold all the horsetorques, just a little more civil. Clutch came out without a hitch today. It`d started slipping really bad the last couple of days and the pressure plate is toast. The aluminum flywheel has a replaceable steel engagement ring so that`s not even an issue. I`ll have it buttoned up tomorrow morning and broken in over the next week or so, so stay tuned for a review on the FX350.
Oh, I also got one of their stainless steel braided clutch lines.
30K miles out of a ceramic clutch in daily stop and go Dallas traffic isn`t a let down, but I don`t drag race so I don`t need that aggressive a clutch (especially at the track) so the carbon fiber disc should give me triple the life expectancy and still hold all the horsetorques, just a little more civil. Clutch came out without a hitch today. It`d started slipping really bad the last couple of days and the pressure plate is toast. The aluminum flywheel has a replaceable steel engagement ring so that`s not even an issue. I`ll have it buttoned up tomorrow morning and broken in over the next week or so, so stay tuned for a review on the FX350.
Oh, I also got one of their stainless steel braided clutch lines.
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