10" Ported Box Build

Redline said:
It's plenty for my Boston Acoustics sub. I like the fact that my sensitivity is over 92. Lots of those really high-end subs, like W7s and stuff, have sensitivity way down in the mid 80s. Don't get me wrong, it'd be nice to have a $800 sub, but this is plenty for me, and the Alpine matches it well.
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I have always been a big fan of alpine amps but wanted to try something new and not so main stream on this build.

I have this laying around in my garage I hope to push my 15" Fi sub

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Love my Alpine MRV-M500 for my sub. I was thinking of getting a Pioneer Champion (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TW3K3D4/Pioneer-Champion-Series-PRO-TS-W3003D4.html?tp=111) to take full advantage of its power potential. Y'all heard anything about this sub line? It's got great sensitivity and handles 600 RMS.

I realize the Alpine MRV line isn't as high-end as the PDX series, but it's definitely a very solid-mid range amp that makes more than its rated power, sounds crystal clear, runs cool, and has a very space-efficient footprint. I liked it so much that I went with its cousin, the MRV-F300, for my mids/his. Couldn't be happier.
 
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PURPFOX said:
http://ddaudio.com/product-archive/subwoofers/hidef-tuned/ts3500/

Small sealed and feed it a light 1000 watts. This is my set up. i need to ditch the kicker amp for something without a subsonic filter.

And if your going to port with that pioneer drop your tuning to at least the 30's unless you just want loud but high
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I'm a sealed guy, not a ported guy. I understand about SPL and dB. But I like the tight, accurate, flat frequency response characteristic of sealed enclosures much more. It sounds much better to my ear, even compared to a "perfectly tuned" vented/ported enclosure.
 
Thats my thoughts. the DD may not have the high sensitivity but so far has proven well on my ears. i just hate pulling it out for play time. sub alone is 38lbs plus box.
 
PURPFOX said:
Thats my thoughts. the DD may not have the high sensitivity but so far has proven well on my ears. i just hate pulling it out for play time. sub alone is 38lbs plus box.
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That magnet/motor assembly, tho... LOL
 
My little CT Sounds 10 weighs like 36 lbs or something like that... You guys are reminding me I need to make time to finish off my build


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If you really want good clean sound, and volume to match, walk away from big box store products. They just don't have the potential that they did 10 years ago.

DD, CT sounds, SAA, reserch is key. it all depends on what you want.

If my 17 yo daughter would quit trying to wake the dead, I would build a low power dayton audio 10 in a ported mini box tuned to 20-22 hz. perfect for a light weight setup and sounds great
 
PURPFOX said:
If you really want good clean sound, and volume to match, walk away from big box store products. They just don't have the potential that they did 10 years ago.

DD, CT sounds, SAA, reserch is key. it all depends on what you want.

If my 17 yo daughter would quit trying to wake the dead, I would build a low power dayton audio 10 in a ported mini box tuned to 20-22 hz. perfect for a light weight setup and sounds great
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Honestly, I love the sound of my Boston Acoustics G2. It's tight, responsive, can hit rapid-fire notes (like bass pedal on drums) very accurately, and has great, deep, even frequency response. Plus, I get a lot of sound out of it for the power I put into it due to its sensitivity rating.

That's why I was curious about you guys' opinions on the Pioneer Champion Pro Series: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TW3K3D4/Pioneer-Champion-Series-PRO-TS-W3003D4.html?tp=111 . Seems like it has all of the benefits of my BA G2, but can handle the full power of my MRV-M500.

I realize neither of these are top-tier products, but for me the sound is key. If I can have 95% of the SQ for 1/2 to 1/3 the price, that's a great tradeoff for me.
 
some of the boston is good stuff.
every since pioneer started selling Walmart stuff i haven't been much of a fan. you are better off feeding a sub (or any speaker ) more than its rated power. running at or close to rms matching can in many cases result in clipping at high volume, vs distortion from from too much power.
 
PURPFOX said:
some of the boston is good stuff.
every since pioneer started selling Walmart stuff i haven't been much of a fan. you are better off feeding a sub (or any speaker ) more than its rated power. running at or close to rms matching can in many cases result in clipping at high volume, vs distortion from from too much power.
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The BA G2 is rated for 300 RMS. The Alpine MRV-500M puts out 513 RMS @ 2 ohms, according to its birth sheet. Think I should use a DMM and Ohm's law to re-tune the amp for 500 RMS with a 0dB test tone? Right now I have it tuned for 300 RMS with a 0dB test tone.
 
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When I set gains with a higher powered amp. I set for clarity over volume. I'm not sure on the dmm, but I'm still on rhe dang factory headunit, so I know im I'm missing a lot of potential.
 
PURPFOX said:
When I set gains with a higher powered amp. I set for clarity over volume. I'm not sure on the dmm, but I'm still on rhe dang factory headunit, so I know im I'm missing a lot of potential.
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Yeah, that's kind of my methodology too. I set the head unit to 75% of its max setting with everything flat, no X-overs enabled (on amps or head unit), no EQ, no added bass, mids, treble, or any sound effects/processing - just a raw, unaltered signal. Then, I turn up the gains on the amps with said 75% head unit level until I hear clipping and back it off a tad. I usually use 1khz for mids/his and 40hz for the sub.I know this provides the cleanest/clearest signal for optimal SQ.

I know some people do the amp gain settings with the head unit at the highest level that doesn't clip. But some tracks/albums are mastered at a lower level, so using the 75% method gives much more functional dynamic range for a variety of music styles. But like I said, since the BA sub is only rated for 300 and my monoblock puts out 513 RMS, I used a different strategy to keep the sub "safe."

This is JL's view on it, and basically what I adapted in my setting up:
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205065660-Amplifier-Level-Setting-Guide

Crutchfield's is similar in terms of going by clipping instead of desired voltage:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BORTydomaEk/learn/setting-amplifier-gain.html
 
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It's been forever since I've posted an update, life/work got crazy busy and finally found my dream job so I'm off for a week before I start my new job and been catching up on all my little projects with this being one of them.

Box is complete, just need to round over the front baffle and port opening then wrap with carpet.

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Nice,
I ended up going sealed with my sub selection. I was ported and loud but not clean sounding. as soon as it met the sealed box it was night and day. But my sub is preferd for a small sealed enclosure.
 
PURPFOX said:
Nice,
I ended up going sealed with my sub selection. I was ported and loud but not clean sounding. as soon as it met the sealed box it was night and day. But my sub is preferd for a small sealed enclosure.
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I have always been a huge fan of sealed boxes but I'm trying something a little different in this car. Sub firing up and slot port firing back into the hatch curious to see how it sounds.

Should be wrapping it in carpet today or tomorrow during my daughters nap.

Also depends if I can stand the 102* heat today haha


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Test fitted into the hatch, need to touch up the paint a little bit on the port opening

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That looks good. Is the box heavy enough to not slide around? When I had 2 10"s the box was light and it slid around the trunk. With 3 10"s it was heavy enough to stay in place.
 
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