Could you just go honduh and put some washers under the hood hinges to raise the rear of the hood and inch or so?
302 Miata Time!
- Thread starter Castillo817
- Start date
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Castillo817
Greenie Member
Umm maybbbbbbe
Its free and easy to just get the car on the road if it works
Castillo817
Greenie Member
Finally finished the subframe. Not the best looking welds, but will hold up. Next up is modifying the stock T5 cross member to be able to mount my trans.
redneck4Christ
Greenie Member
...Since you will be using a cowl-induction hood... Use that high pressure area at the base of your windshield for your cold-air intake. My .02
Castillo817
Greenie Member
So instead of the intake going towards the front of the engine, to have it towards the back of the engine?
redneck4Christ
Greenie Member
That's my recommendation. I can't find the image I'm thinking of right now, but do some google searching for 'miata CFD' or 'miata windtunnel' or similar.
There are 2 high pressure areas and one low pressure area around the nose of most cars. In front of the bumper is a big high pressure area, but it is already crowded with heat exchangers. The base of the windshield is the other high pressure area. That is why the cowl Induction hood was developed.
The low pressure area is near the leading edge of the hood/ near the top of the hood. That's where hood vents would help pull hot air Out of the engine compartment. Think of an Evo hood.
Again, just my .02. Others on here that are smarter or more experienced may have better ideas.
There are 2 high pressure areas and one low pressure area around the nose of most cars. In front of the bumper is a big high pressure area, but it is already crowded with heat exchangers. The base of the windshield is the other high pressure area. That is why the cowl Induction hood was developed.
The low pressure area is near the leading edge of the hood/ near the top of the hood. That's where hood vents would help pull hot air Out of the engine compartment. Think of an Evo hood.
Again, just my .02. Others on here that are smarter or more experienced may have better ideas.
@redneck4Christ has some great advice. It's probably obvious, but worth mentioning anyways: make sure you get cooling system components up to the task, especially if you'll be tracking. In particular, a radiator that can cool all the heat that 302 can produce when you're racing around the track is probably the most important single item followed closely by the fan setup you use on it.
Fans dont matter once the car is above ten mph or so.
Castillo817
Greenie Member
Positioning the intake towards the windshield area in the passenger side will be kinda of difficult as I believe. It's very space limited on that side.
Think so? Doesn't seem to be the case with my FMIC. After sitting at a stop light for a while, it takes a good deal more than driving at 10mph (and for at least a few minutes) to bring BATs down to what they were when I rolled up to said stoplight. Then again, apples and oranges; though both are heat exchangers. Maybe if I had a LTA intercooler it'd be different.
I dont think so i know so. Put your hand out the window at 10 mph and put your hand "carefully" behind the fan when it is running. Which one is moving more air.
Your bats dont drop immediately due to the heat which is retained within the piping and core of your intercooler. If the fan was as important as you think the intercooler would never heat up while stationary
As another data point most purpose built race cars do not have fans. Since if running and competing they should not be stationary a fan is not needed.
If your bats are not dropping quickly start a new thread with pictures and lets figure out why.
Yeah, it makes perfect sense to me that cars that basically never stand still (i.e., race cars) have no need for radiator fans. All the fans do is simulate forward motion in a stationary car.
I think it really just boils down to heatsoak in conjunction with no liquid running through the FMIC (like I said above) to mitigate the effect, coupled with coolant temps increasing at the light as well. I'll bet LTA intercooler guys don't have to deal with it nearly so much, but I could be wrong. There's nothing wrong with my FMIC. And it's tons better than my ETS ever was at stoplights. It takes much, much longer for BATs to creep up, and there isn't nearly as much delta as before. Anyways, don't wanna threadjack.
Cowl induction could definitely be beneficial if you could pull it off, @Castillo817. Maybe hoods for this purpose exist for Miatas?
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Castillo817
Greenie Member
I'm doing most of the fabrication myself so saving me LOTS of money. I also did a full gasket rebuild and lots of new miscellaneous parts. So far a little under 3k? Probably another 2k to finish and another 6164839209386k where I want to have it at.
Did sell about $1500 in Miata parts I wouldn't need.
mps611
Greenie Member
What do u need to fab? Motor mounts and a cross member maybe? Headers and exhaust I'd assume as well?
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Castillo817
Greenie Member
Pretty much modify the stock front subframe is the cheapest way to go. I got some headers that would tuck closer to the engine instead of Monster Miata ones that go around the control arm. Exhaust has to be custom as well.
Monstermiata.com has the kit if you plan on going that route. I'm getting a few parts from Martin (clutch hydraulics and axles). He's a really cool guy.
It's a very big process, but I like challenges
You should definitely join v8miata.net if you're considering to do a v8 swap. Lots of info on that site!
Monstermiata.com has the kit if you plan on going that route. I'm getting a few parts from Martin (clutch hydraulics and axles). He's a really cool guy.
It's a very big process, but I like challenges
You should definitely join v8miata.net if you're considering to do a v8 swap. Lots of info on that site!
mps611
Greenie Member
Something I'd think about when the times right... ms6 nerds to get done first and running correctly then I'll look at wat ill.do with miata... kinda just want an NA with torsen rear end, rx7 t2 brakes, 99-05 1.8l with bolt ons. I think tht would be a legit setup on an NA.Pretty much modify the stock front subframe is the cheapest way to go. I got some headers that would tuck closer to the engine instead of Monster Miata ones that go around the control arm. Exhaust has to be custom as well.
Monstermiata.com has the kit if you plan on going that route. I'm getting a few parts from Martin (clutch hydraulics and axles). He's a really cool guy.
It's a very big process, but I like challenges
You should definitely join v8miata.net if you're considering to do a v8 swap. Lots of info on that site!
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Castillo817
Greenie Member
Yea this Miata had a torsen and it was so much fun at stock power! Definitely will get another Miata and have a badass suspension.
