andale927's PTE 5558 Gen 2 Build (Built Engine)

[andale927]

Previous mod list:
Power:
BNR S4 v2 Turbocharger
JBR 3.5" Aluminum Intake
GFB Respons BPV
Depo Racing Catless Downpipe
NGK Iridium 1 Step Colder Plugs
Bosch 3 BAR MAP
JBR 3 Port EBC
Treadstone TR8 Intercooler Kit
Autotech HPFP Internals
Ultimate Racing Catback
Freektune E30 Mix
Devils Own Methanol Injection 5GPH Nozzle
Custom Tru-Cool Oil Cooler w/ Therm
~400whp @ 24PSI Boost

Handling:
KW V3 Coilovers
Corksport Front Camber Plates
SPC Rear Camber Arms
E46 M3 Front Endlinks
Whiteline Rear Endlinks
Wilwood Dynapro 6 Big Brake Kit w/ 2 Piece Rotors
Wilwood BP-20 Pads Front
Hawk HPS Pads Rear
Stoptech SS Braided Rear Brake Lines
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 235/40/18
Damond Transmission, Passenger, and Rear Motor Mounts
Damond PCV Plate
JBR Weighted Shift Knob
JBR Shift Bushings
JBR Rear Sway Bar
Damond Short Shift Plate
Corksport Steering Wheel
Avid.1 AV-20 Wheels 18x8 +35 Wheels

Figured I'd start a build thread for this since the excitement is getting to me and I need to tell someone lol.

Purchased an Full Race EFR 7163 kit in September 2018 only to do a compression test right after and get the following results:
Cyl 1 190
Cyl 2 190
Cyl 3 165
Cyl 4 190

I was really looking to push the turbo so figured I'd go all out with a built motor. Purchased an SP63 Stage 2 off the shelf build a few months ago and I should be getting it any day now.

Goal with the build is a car that can make big power on the street along with track days, while still spooling well enough to be competitive in Autocross. Goal is ~550whp.

Parts I've ordered so far:
FR EFR 7163 Kit
SP63 Stage 2 Build
South Bend S3 Enduro Clutch Kit
Replacement Slave Cylinder
SP63 6th Port Kit
Aeromotive 325 LPH Fuel Pump (Figure with an unregulated fuel setup any extra flow will help with making my goal numbers on E50)
Eric Yarbrough Wire Tuck w/ PI Dongle
JBR Under-Route Hot Side Kit
CS 3.5 Bar MAP
CS Injector Seals
JBR Oil Pan Baffle
CS Intake Manifold (If it ever goes in stock again...)
Koyorad 25mm Radiator - Already installed this, was a cake walk without a motor in the car.

Some pics:

Before anyone says anything... I am not rich, just run a side business solely to fund all car related activities. Having a monster MZR build has been a dream of mine since I was a kid in highschool nearly 10 years ago and joined the Mazdaspeedforums.

 

[andale927]

Really wanted to be able to monitor the turbo shaft speed so I can push the turbo to the edge of the compressor map, but didn't want to spend nearly $500 on the Full Race gauge setup for something I would only use while tuning.

Voila, simple Arduino solution to the rescue! Testing it here:

Taking the / 8 divisor on the shaft speed sensor and wheel blade into account is as simple as adding a few more lines of code.

It's super responsive and should work really well. Might actually set it up with a tach signal and try logging the data to an SD card.

 

[dagrimey1]

Fug yeah

Can't believe I using Tapatalk again!

 

[mangosmoothie]

Really wanted to be able to monitor the turbo shaft speed so I can push the turbo to the edge of the compressor map, but didn't want to spend nearly $500 on the Full Race gauge setup for something I would only use while tuning.

Voila, simple Arduino solution to the rescue! Testing it here:

Taking the / 8 divisor on the shaft speed sensor and wheel blade into account is as simple as adding a few more lines of code.

It's super responsive and should work really well. Might actually set it up with a tach signal and try logging the data to an SD card.

Well that's cool as he'll and innovative

 

[gotovato]

looks like a solid build!

 

[alexwlwsn]

Really wanted to be able to monitor the turbo shaft speed so I can push the turbo to the edge of the compressor map, but didn't want to spend nearly $500 on the Full Race gauge setup for something I would only use while tuning.

Voila, simple Arduino solution to the rescue! Testing it here:

Taking the / 8 divisor on the shaft speed sensor and wheel blade into account is as simple as adding a few more lines of code.

It's super responsive and should work really well. Might actually set it up with a tach signal and try logging the data to an SD card.

Arduino for the win!

 

[VashEXE]

People are catching on to the EFR lyfe.

I'm making right about 550 to the wheels on my 7163, but that's pushing it pretty hard. You'd probably be better off around 500 with a flatter tq curve, but I haven't bothered flattening it out yet.

One other thing I noticed was you don't have the shorty WGA bracket from them. You're going to need the shorty WGA and the bracket for it to make this fit properly (ask me how I know).

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I see you didnt get the thermal coat that full race offers, what are you going to do as far as heat control on the manifold and turbo?

I have the stock flange manifold from full race, and it gets hot as fuck even with their thermal coat.

Nice build, very jelly.

 

[VashEXE]

I see you didnt get the thermal coat that full race offers, what are you going to do as far as heat control on the manifold and turbo?

I have the stock flange manifold from full race, and it gets hot as fuck even with their thermal coat.

Nice build, very jelly.

No amount of coolant hose heat wrap/shielding has kept them safe from this manifold. It's very close to the hose. I've been thinking about wrapping mine up actually. I've heard the wrapping can cause some nasty rusting/corrosion problems in climates that aren't nice and dry like AZ, but that might be an option.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

If OP feels more comfortable going commando, do it. You can always wrap it later, if you change your mind.

I had my manifold coated when I bought it from full race 6 months ago, and at full operating temp, my manifold gets to >500*F while sitting at idle. I have header wrap snd a turbo blanket to install in the next couple of weeks.

I figure it's easier to contain heat at the source, rather than shielding other stuff that falls victim to heat. FL is like a giant swamp, but considering the heat this thing produces, I'll take the chance of metal corrosion later on if it happens.

You guys have a nice option for a turbo blanket from full race. I had to track down a t25 blanket for my BNR. Not sure how well it'll work out.

 

[andale927]

Thanks for the positive feedback!

Alright, I'm convinced and will get the manifold ceramic coated by these guys:
https://boneheadperformance.com/color-charts/#8

Are we talking about the turbo coolant lines being affected by heat? Maybe it would be a good idea to use a pair of these and braided stainless -4AN lines?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4AN-Banjo-...h=item442b49cb4d:g:5A4AAOSwI-dbQbFD:rk:4:pf:0

People are catching on to the EFR lyfe.

I'm making right about 550 to the wheels on my 7163, but that's pushing it pretty hard. You'd probably be better off around 500 with a flatter tq curve, but I haven't bothered flattening it out yet.

One other thing I noticed was you don't have the shorty WGA bracket from them. You're going to need the shorty WGA and the bracket for it to make this fit properly (ask me how I know).

Yeah, I think I will end up with two maps, one for autocross and one for street use. I would hate to leave any power on the table lol. What I really want is to run a 4 port EBCS and 2 port wastegate, but others haven't had good luck with the Mazdaspeed ECU. Almost thinking of switching to standalone boost control, but idk:
https://sirhclabs.com/

That pic was pre-mockup, here is what it looks like now with the shorty WGA and the turbo clocked for under-route piping:

Hopefully the under route doesn't require much modification, I haven't seen anyone try it yet.

 

[VashEXE]

Looking real good. The coolant stuff is a real pain in the ass to get to once it's on the car, so make sure you get that set how you want it for a while, otherwise the turbo will pretty much have to come off to adjust later since the WG bracket is basically making contact with one of the coolant ports. The braided stainless stuff would be really cool actually, I like how that banjo setup looks that you linked. You'd probably have more wiggle room for hose routing with that setup too. I reused stocker coolant banjos and stuff, so mines a little limited in where it can go.

As far as leaving HP on the table, you can pretty much push 400 tq the whole way up very easily. Here's what my current map looks like:

This is just a vdyno with a couple people in the car, but you can see how hard it drops off after 5k or so. Up at 7k I'm probably off of the compressor map, but peak HP is down around 5k anyways. Feels great, but if you're worried about staying in the efficiency areas you're probably going to drop off harder than mine. I'll have to get this actually dyno'd one of these days, but last time I did it actually made a chunk more than what my vdynos were showing, so there's that too.

I'll be honest 500tq so early on is great and this setup is very DDable, but for autocross I'd think you'll be detuning lower gears very heavily anyways. I can break 4th gear loose at 50mph now with how hard it kicks in. That's with brand new pilot super sports, suspension, etc. so there's only so much you can do for traction. The next step will probably be some R888Rs, but that starts really sacrificing the DD aspect. It's all give and take, but even with detuning this setup will be fun as hell. I've been having a hard timing getting out there to make a more tame version of the tune because I like driving it around like this so much. There's just something about "losing power" even if I can't put it down lol.

 

[andale927]

Looking real good. The coolant stuff is a real pain in the ass to get to once it's on the car, so make sure you get that set how you want it for a while, otherwise the turbo will pretty much have to come off to adjust later since the WG bracket is basically making contact with one of the coolant ports. The braided stainless stuff would be really cool actually, I like how that banjo setup looks that you linked. You'd probably have more wiggle room for hose routing with that setup too. I reused stocker coolant banjos and stuff, so mines a little limited in where it can go.

As far as leaving HP on the table, you can pretty much push 400 tq the whole way up very easily. Here's what my current map looks like:

This is just a vdyno with a couple people in the car, but you can see how hard it drops off after 5k or so. Up at 7k I'm probably off of the compressor map, but peak HP is down around 5k anyways. Feels great, but if you're worried about staying in the efficiency areas you're probably going to drop off harder than mine. I'll have to get this actually dyno'd one of these days, but last time I did it actually made a chunk more than what my vdynos were showing, so there's that too.

I'll be honest 500tq so early on is great and this setup is very DDable, but for autocross I'd think you'll be detuning lower gears very heavily anyways. I can break 4th gear loose at 50mph now with how hard it kicks in. That's with brand new pilot super sports, suspension, etc. so there's only so much you can do for traction. The next step will probably be some R888Rs, but that starts really sacrificing the DD aspect. It's all give and take, but even with detuning this setup will be fun as hell. I've been having a hard timing getting out there to make a more tame version of the tune because I like driving it around like this so much. There's just something about "losing power" even if I can't put it down lol.

Damn, that torque curve is nuts. I think I will just take it based on how it actually feels and performs with different boost control strategies, have nothing against experimenting haha. Your drop off seems pretty damn steep at 6000rpm. and that should still be within efficiency range of the turbo even at 32 PSI (obviously with a huge grain of salt, expectations with real-world vs paper or some bullshit like that). Do you have any other flow restrictions in the system (exhaust, intercooler, intake manifold, etc?) I would be really curious to see the log of that run if you have it available by any chance.

I'll definitely take note of having everything setup the way I want pre-install. I assume it isn't much of a problem putting the engine and turbo in as a single assembly?

 

[VashEXE]

Damn, that torque curve is nuts. I think I will just take it based on how it actually feels and performs with different boost control strategies, have nothing against experimenting haha. Your drop off seems pretty damn steep at 6000rpm. and that should still be within efficiency range of the turbo even at 32 PSI (obviously with a huge grain of salt, expectations with real-world vs paper or some bullshit like that). Do you have any other flow restrictions in the system (exhaust, intercooler, intake manifold, etc?) I would be really curious to see the log of that run if you have it available by any chance.

I'll definitely take note of having everything setup the way I want pre-install. I assume it isn't much of a problem putting the engine and turbo in as a single assembly?

This is with a modified TMIC. Could be related to that, but matchbot starts getting pretty close to the edge around 6-7k for those points. Obviously I don't have real volumetric efficiency numbers to put on there, so this Matchbot really isn't to be taken very seriously.

I've been wanting to experiment more with other TMIC cores and possibly a custom TMIC later on down the road, but the whole point of this build was to push the limits of TMIC and be a really good DD, which it's already doing.

I don't really have any other 7163's to compare against, so I'm interested to see what your TR8 will do. My build was all about flow, so cams, heavy head/bowl work, CS intake mani, full race exhaust mani, open 3" exhaust. No other restrictions barring the TMIC at this point which has had the inlet adjusted, but the core theoretically shouldn't even be able to flow as much as I'm making currently, so my math on the intercooler kinda all went out the window when I started tuning.

 

[andale927]

This is with a modified TMIC. Could be related to that, but matchbot starts getting pretty close to the edge around 6-7k for those points. Obviously I don't have real volumetric efficiency numbers to put on there, so this Matchbot really isn't to be taken very seriously.

I've been wanting to experiment more with other TMIC cores and possibly a custom TMIC later on down the road, but the whole point of this build was to push the limits of TMIC and be a really good DD, which it's already doing.

I don't really have any other 7163's to compare against, so I'm interested to see what your TR8 will do. My build was all about flow, so cams, heavy head/bowl work, CS intake mani, full race exhaust mani, open 3" exhaust. No other restrictions barring the TMIC at this point which has had the inlet adjusted, but the core theoretically shouldn't even be able to flow as much as I'm making currently, so my math on the intercooler kinda all went out the window when I started tuning.

Yeah, I love comparing this shit haha was really disappointed that there are so few build threads for this setup. I guess we will see. Also the TR8 is rated for 750cfm, which is less than the ~850 that 60lbs/min translates to...

 

[VashEXE]

Yeah, I love comparing this shit haha was really disappointed that there are so few build threads for this setup. I guess we will see. Also the TR8 is rated for 750cfm, which is less than the ~850 that 60lbs/min translates to...

Yep, that's what I was seeing with my IC math too. Then you have guys like ETS who say this:

"3.25" flows 1176 CFM (705hp based on flow, inlet/oulet restrict flow to ~600hp, surface area = 450hp at ~50mph, speed required for this power rating due to flow through the scoop."

I'm not really sure how much difference the 3 extra rows would make for my flow since I have a CPE which only has 16 rows compared to ETS' 19 rows, but it's something I've wanted to test as long as I could find one for the right price. Of course I've got to imagine they're talking 600hp(at the crank) hp worth of air, which means that I'm pretty much in that ballpark right now anyways.

Here's a nice article I referred to a lot when looking up IC stuff:

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineeri...the-ultimate-guide-for-intercooler-selection/

Talks about a lot of different aspects of intercooler design and how you should make your selections accordingly. A cool little quick reference.

 

[andale927]

Yep, that's what I was seeing with my IC math too. Then you have guys like ETS who say this:

"3.25" flows 1176 CFM (705hp based on flow, inlet/oulet restrict flow to ~600hp, surface area = 450hp at ~50mph, speed required for this power rating due to flow through the scoop."

I'm not really sure how much difference the 3 extra rows would make for my flow since I have a CPE which only has 16 rows compared to ETS' 19 rows, but it's something I've wanted to test as long as I could find one for the right price. Of course I've got to imagine they're talking 600hp(at the crank) hp worth of air, which means that I'm pretty much in that ballpark right now anyways.

Here's a nice article I referred to a lot when looking up IC stuff:

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineeri...the-ultimate-guide-for-intercooler-selection/

Talks about a lot of different aspects of intercooler design and how you should make your selections accordingly. A cool little quick reference.

Good reference, thanks.

Yeah, doesn't help that there isn't really a set standard for air flow measurement with aftermarket companies. It's really an estimate based on a certain air velocity, could range from a .40 mach to 1 mach measurement, up to interpretation by the manufacturer. Thinking about it logically, you probably flow more. The TR8 has less rows and is only .25" thicker.

Then you have the Full Race vertical flow intercooler with 36 rows. Just need to take out another million dollar loan to buy one... lol

Maybe I'll sell my beater and buy it.

 

[VashEXE]

Good reference, thanks.

Yeah, doesn't help that there isn't really a set standard for air flow measurement with aftermarket companies. It's really an estimate based on a certain air velocity, could range from a .40 mach to 1 mach measurement, up to interpretation by the manufacturer. Thinking about it logically, you probably flow more. The TR8 has less rows and is only .25" thicker.

Then you have the Full Race vertical flow intercooler with 36 rows. Just need to take out another million dollar loan to buy one... lol

Maybe I'll sell my beater and buy it.

Yeah the row height will help with cooling, but with PI and E that doesn't really matter much since I'm getting cooling from spraying alcohol at higher loads. It's really just about the rows for us. Also, if you're going to be going for flow you should really be running some cams. If you don't I'd still like to see the performance differences between our builds haha. You're pretty similar, but without a lot of the flow stuff like headwork/cams, so seeing some of the differences would be sweet.

 

[andale927]

Yeah the row height will help with cooling, but with PI and E that doesn't really matter much since I'm getting cooling from spraying alcohol at higher loads. It's really just about the rows for us. Also, if you're going to be going for flow you should really be running some cams. If you don't I'd still like to see the performance differences between our builds haha. You're pretty similar, but without a lot of the flow stuff like headwork/cams, so seeing some of the differences would be sweet.

That was gonna be my next question, so the ethanol mixture with PI is enough to not require meth injection for cooling. Good to know.

 

[VashEXE]

Yeah I mean in the end you're still spraying alcohol pre throttlebody, so you definitely see the BATs drop real quick when PI kicks in. I'm running e54 which is full E here in Phoenix.

E30 was knock proof pretty much up to about 500hp. After that I was chasing some knock and ended up going to e54, so you might get to that point too.