jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
9k front and rear
Bought not Built
- Thread starter jdab555
- Start date
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
That should be a good start for sure. Nice rates
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Car did really well at the last event - I was only like 1.5 seconds behind my buddy who was .5 a second behind FTD for the day in his 2022 GR86.
Notes to consider:
Notes to consider:
- Tires - Falken Rt660s were awesome, super pleased with the performance and it seems like just about everyone is running them. Grip while powering through a corner remains tough, not sure if its just tire size (225s) or additional suspension setup needed, but the front wants to break loose really fast under hard cornering.
- Suspension - Fortune Autos really did well. I stiffened up the rear damping probably a little too much before going up, and since its harder to mess with I didn't really attempt to tweak it in between runs like the front. There was a back stretch where I could get close to topping out third, and predictable the car got squirrelly, and cost me time as I was too hot coming into the last slalom. Gotta figure out a way to keep the rear from getting dancy, as I've already put the swaybar on it looser setting from most stiff.
- Engine - the car seems to eat up runs without a problem, and actually seems to run even better when its hot (it was 95 during the 6 runs each day.) Probably Damaged my AC by overcharging it the night before.
- Chassis - Squeak in the front when going over bumps, sounds like it could be front swaybar bushings. Was present before I changed coilover setups, so confident it isn't endlinks.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Yea corner exit is definitely a bit of a weak spot for these cars. You have so much temp in the tires after braking, turning in, trying to carry the speed then apply throttle. It’s a lot of work for them front tires for sure.
what are your alignment specs? Front camber?
as for the rear squirming around I had the same issue braking front the top of 4th the rear would dance around like crazy.
0 toe back there. -1.25* of camber. Sway bar on softest setting. It still danced a ton. There isn’t a whole lot you can do. It’s chassis related. You just need to be expecting it and ready for it. The best way to help keep it in check is by smoothly applying brake vs jumping on it. Gotta remember you’re transferring a ton of weight upfront, the rear is going to get light. That’s normal.
my car would try to swap ends on me lol. I mention it in my thread for sure.
one suggestion, get some real tire on the car. 225 is great for the street/back roads but this is a heavy torque happy car. 255’s are the go to. Try that next and it’ll help a ton with corner exit.
If you really want to move to the next level of fwd understeer deletion consider a stagger wheel/tire setup.
255’s front
225’s rear.
thatll change your life lol
These cars really need a staggered setup. I can feel it even on the street
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Front Camber is at about -2 up front, rear the same. Have a set of SPC Camber arms that I might use to hit that number, and go in for a better alignment with the exact specs I want.
Just got these tires, probably should have gotten at least 235s looking back on it. Wheels won't hold much beyond that I don't think.
Also attached a video of my run that one of the guys took, wish I had a Go-pro in car to analyze; I get excitable when I drive my first few runs and get super twitchy.
Next event is a Track-Cross on July 23rd, so really excited for that format, first time on an actual track.
Might roll that if my bonuses start getting juicier. Garage space is getting to a premium right now, and I still need some street wheels/tires so I don't heat cycle the RT660s out of usefulness with Daily duty (daily being once a week maybe).
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gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Little more camber upfront would do you well. As well as more tire
for now just enjoy what you got. Once those tires are done it might be worth stepping up in width or committing with the stagger setup.
As for front camber I found around -3* worked pretty well but as I’ve learned recently, it’s worth reading the tire wear and adjusting accordingly.
chassis/suspension tuning is the fun part.
for now just enjoy what you got. Once those tires are done it might be worth stepping up in width or committing with the stagger setup.
As for front camber I found around -3* worked pretty well but as I’ve learned recently, it’s worth reading the tire wear and adjusting accordingly.
chassis/suspension tuning is the fun part.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Had my first Trackcross at Summit Point in West Virginia, what an awesome time. Myself and the group I go with all agree track driving is much more fun than Autocross, though the car control experience has definitely helped me to begin confidently. I was able to pull off a class win (<400hp FWD) in the afternoon session, beating out 5 other cars.
My buddy who owns a Mazdaspeed Miata had an unfortunate incident the night before with a failed parking brake, which rolled into a tree and completely annihilated the right rear quarter panel and bumper, so he was unable to drive his car for the event. Really sad given how much he had planned for it over the winter, and the relative rarity of the platform. He was/is super bummed.
As is tradition, I offered up my car for double-duty, so we got him updated to co-drive my car, and the car handled the day like a champ. (The Silver Eclipse is a different friend in our group, probably the only functioning turbo DSM for a thousand miles in any direction.)
There were two sessions, morning and afternoon, broken into two groups of about 40 cars each, with 4 runs per car in each session. The car made 8 runs in the morning and 8 runs in the afternoon (2 drivers) for a total of 16 runs for the day, all in 95-100 degree temperatures. It was mega-hot, but the new FMIC setup really paid dividends, and the cooling system kept things under control admirably, idling constantly in between full throttle runs.
The Fortune Autos and new tires really worked awesome, really makes me respect the hell out of this platform. Super nimble, great power delivery even on the shitty K04. 100% angling for a BNR S3 now to move the power band up a bit, since the lack of top end was really noticeable on the longer straights.
Fantastic time, can't wait to get on the next event there in September.
My buddy who owns a Mazdaspeed Miata had an unfortunate incident the night before with a failed parking brake, which rolled into a tree and completely annihilated the right rear quarter panel and bumper, so he was unable to drive his car for the event. Really sad given how much he had planned for it over the winter, and the relative rarity of the platform. He was/is super bummed.
As is tradition, I offered up my car for double-duty, so we got him updated to co-drive my car, and the car handled the day like a champ. (The Silver Eclipse is a different friend in our group, probably the only functioning turbo DSM for a thousand miles in any direction.)
There were two sessions, morning and afternoon, broken into two groups of about 40 cars each, with 4 runs per car in each session. The car made 8 runs in the morning and 8 runs in the afternoon (2 drivers) for a total of 16 runs for the day, all in 95-100 degree temperatures. It was mega-hot, but the new FMIC setup really paid dividends, and the cooling system kept things under control admirably, idling constantly in between full throttle runs.
The Fortune Autos and new tires really worked awesome, really makes me respect the hell out of this platform. Super nimble, great power delivery even on the shitty K04. 100% angling for a BNR S3 now to move the power band up a bit, since the lack of top end was really noticeable on the longer straights.
Fantastic time, can't wait to get on the next event there in September.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Some minor maintenance items completed:
- Belt Tensioner - Dayco (very cool thanks JohnnyTightLips)
- Belt - Dayco
- Idler Pulley (Those OEM Japan bearings were minty and spin like crazy compared to the "new" replacement Chinese Dayco bearing. Keeping in case the replacement gives up the ghost.
- Front Subframe Bushings - had a squeak in certain suspension conditions, hoping that fixes it.
- Corksport Valve Cover Hardware & Valve Cover Gasket - AGAIN (4th time in 1.5 years) - Tossed the AP hardware since it seems to be incapable of keeping the gasket intact, exploding out the sides every time. Corksport hardware seems more robust, solid, and capable in mimicking the OEM style which I really like, despite the obscene price-point.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Car has a higher-than-normal / hanging idle when fully warmed, ~1300 - 1000 as opposed to the targeted 850. LTFT showing as -9.52 at idle which leads me to believe I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Boost leak test on Sunday to find out if its an easy thing to solve for.
Any chance it could be the new belt / idler pulley? Belt was mega-tight to get on, hoping that didn't cause some sort of issue but my brain says that isn't likely.
Also still chasing the squeak in the front, bushings had no effect on it, if anything it feels like its louder now. Sounds sometimes like a squeak, other times like a metal on metal tap, like something is banging together in the engine bay, audible with the window up or down, most often when at asymmetrical suspension geometry going over a bump, or when there is significant body movement during an uphill start.
Thinking it could be a different bushing, maybe RMM is starting to go? Maybe a hardline? TBD...
Any chance it could be the new belt / idler pulley? Belt was mega-tight to get on, hoping that didn't cause some sort of issue but my brain says that isn't likely.
Also still chasing the squeak in the front, bushings had no effect on it, if anything it feels like its louder now. Sounds sometimes like a squeak, other times like a metal on metal tap, like something is banging together in the engine bay, audible with the window up or down, most often when at asymmetrical suspension geometry going over a bump, or when there is significant body movement during an uphill start.
Thinking it could be a different bushing, maybe RMM is starting to go? Maybe a hardline? TBD...
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Had a bit of an irrational moment last night and pulled the trigger on a used BNR S3 V4 - looks to be in great shape, only a few thousand miles on it according to the owner. Saved about $250 over retail.
Plan is to hold on to it and see how things go, probably pick up additional supporting parts like MAP sensor, EBCS, ST Manifold and modified piping, and whatever else is deemed necessary. Likely adding it on come winter when there isn't much to do with it.
The goal really isn't much more power, but to shift the powerband up a bit and make it more efficient across the range. I've never been a big fan of the on/off twitchiness of the K04, so this should help a lot.
Plan is to hold on to it and see how things go, probably pick up additional supporting parts like MAP sensor, EBCS, ST Manifold and modified piping, and whatever else is deemed necessary. Likely adding it on come winter when there isn't much to do with it.
The goal really isn't much more power, but to shift the powerband up a bit and make it more efficient across the range. I've never been a big fan of the on/off twitchiness of the K04, so this should help a lot.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Have you installed an oil cooler yet? If not nows maybe the time. Turbo upgrade also upgrades the heat.
my buddy installed an oil cooler on his ms6 same time as he did his s4.
yesterday on track the car was easily reaching 260f+ oil temps within a matter of 2-3 laps.(his oil cooler placement sucks but after fixing that it should be much better)
more power = more heat. More power throughout more of the power band is even more heat. Just keep this in mind. Been there. Done that.
my buddy installed an oil cooler on his ms6 same time as he did his s4.
yesterday on track the car was easily reaching 260f+ oil temps within a matter of 2-3 laps.(his oil cooler placement sucks but after fixing that it should be much better)
more power = more heat. More power throughout more of the power band is even more heat. Just keep this in mind. Been there. Done that.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Haven't done that yet, but its not a bad idea - I don't have plans yet for sustained track work, mostly just track-crosses at this point in time, and its a pretty penny for an oil cooler with thermostat so its pretty far down my list at the moment.
I have an oil temp or oil pressure gauge in the garage, will do that install as well for oil temp once I get cracking come winter.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
S3 arrived, looks to be in pretty great shape! Surprised at how small the frame is, I guess it really is comparable in size to a K04.
On the topic of exhaust manifolds, is it worth putting on a different exhaust manifold that isn't a super expensive Corksport one? I'm not excited to put on an Ebay manifold unless they definitely flow more efficiently than stock. I guess what restrictions / imbalances would I encounter with stock exhaust manifold and an ST Intake Manifold.
On the topic of exhaust manifolds, is it worth putting on a different exhaust manifold that isn't a super expensive Corksport one? I'm not excited to put on an Ebay manifold unless they definitely flow more efficiently than stock. I guess what restrictions / imbalances would I encounter with stock exhaust manifold and an ST Intake Manifold.
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gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
You’ll run out of fuel before the stock exhaust manifold starts to cause issues.
yes a more free flowing system is better, however with your goals and the turbo you’ve decided to go with you require nothing additional.
bolt the s3 on and away you go.
I ran the XSPower manifold and it was pretty good.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Had my second Trackcross event on Saturday, was definitely a blast. Morning layout was not great since it was reverse route on a course designed to go the opposite way, so making a coherent line was difficult and showed in my times. Afternoon was leagues better since the course made a lot of sense the way it was designed to be run (shocker).
Got beaten for 1st place in my class in the afternoon by the black GTI in the first picture by .030 of a second which was frustrating since I overcooked the final lap trying to be more aggressive and understeered like mad.
Overall super happy, with a couple items of note:
RT660s - performed really really well, however myself and a buddy running the exact same tires from a month or so difference in purchase time noticed this cuts across all 4 tires. It's probably where they lay in the tread during manufacturing, but its really noticeable and probably not intentional, so I'm going to try for a warranty claim on TireRack and see what they say.
Fuel Pressure - I make it a habit to keep HPFP Actual as one of my datapoints to show on the AccessPort, and noticed unfortunately that it looks like my FPRV is failing, dropping well below 1600 at WOT. Car didn't act as though anything was wrong and pulled hard throughout, but I'm hoping no damage was done as a result. Also performed the Key On Engine Off test when hot, and the pressure begins to drop immediately. It was a "new" used one, so I guess I'm not too surprised it gave up the ghost pretty quick, just disappointed. $200 new for a small valve is ridiculous.
Got beaten for 1st place in my class in the afternoon by the black GTI in the first picture by .030 of a second which was frustrating since I overcooked the final lap trying to be more aggressive and understeered like mad.
Overall super happy, with a couple items of note:
RT660s - performed really really well, however myself and a buddy running the exact same tires from a month or so difference in purchase time noticed this cuts across all 4 tires. It's probably where they lay in the tread during manufacturing, but its really noticeable and probably not intentional, so I'm going to try for a warranty claim on TireRack and see what they say.
Fuel Pressure - I make it a habit to keep HPFP Actual as one of my datapoints to show on the AccessPort, and noticed unfortunately that it looks like my FPRV is failing, dropping well below 1600 at WOT. Car didn't act as though anything was wrong and pulled hard throughout, but I'm hoping no damage was done as a result. Also performed the Key On Engine Off test when hot, and the pressure begins to drop immediately. It was a "new" used one, so I guess I'm not too surprised it gave up the ghost pretty quick, just disappointed. $200 new for a small valve is ridiculous.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
That’s seam splitting. Normal for rt660’s. It shouldn’t get any worse and at your current point they won’t warranty them. They need to be bad bad.
I’ve ran 3 pairs of rt660’s up front and all have done that. Only 1 set actually failed in a way that falken was willing to warrarnty and it wasn’t due to seam splitting.
You’re fine.
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
That sucks because I want free tires, but also good to know I can still run them. Hopefully they can fix their manufacturing processes in future batches, its a really great tire.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
After the first 4-5mm of wear, the compound changes. Grip is…lesser. It’s why they have delamination issues and other weirdness. It makes sense since it is a “budget” time attack tire. It comes in a lot less then re71’s did cost wise…and I’ve learned why this season lol.
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