Did you replace the screen in the FPRV or the HPFP? You could try to remove the screen from the FPRV and see if it changes.
Bought not Built
- Thread starter jdab555
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Did you replace the screen in the FPRV or the HPFP? You could try to remove the screen from the FPRV and see if it changes.
jdab555
Greenie Member
That's a good point, I did not - I replaced the screen in the HPFP, still have the screen for the FPRV. I have my "cleaned" injectors and seals ready to go in, so I will need to be in that area of the car anyways.
jdab555
Greenie Member
I appreciate the offer - Graveyard insists the ones they sent me were cleaned and tested, I have it in writing, so we'll see what happens. Not going to them for anything in the future, but I do have a core charge with them that requires I send back my current injectors or lose out on $250...
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
These valves are common to fail around 100k. Not too hard to fix but the part isn't super cheap. You can still drive the car and put around town "I did for a week" but you can't go WOT/any boost or it will fuel cut.
jdab555
Greenie Member
I actually just grabbed a good used one last night, should be in this week and we'll see what it solves. Did additional testing yesterday, pulled the spill valve, etc. and its still behaving the same. Fun thing to note, minor changes in torque on the spill valve will raise or lower your achievable fuel pressure throughout the RPM range, but only having the spill valve at its tightest will get you where you need to be.
I also have a theory that my PRV has been partially failed for a while, and I only noticed it now since I was monitoring HPFP pressures after doing my o-rings and noticed it. Hasn't caused any noticeable driveability issues, but its still dipping below 1600 at WOT, and definitely not reaching 1850 crack pressure KOEO.
jdab555
Greenie Member
Started tearing into the injectors, this time I have pictures. Oily mess, I think @Raider has me beaten just a little, but we'll have to see when I have time to pull the other 3 tomorrow. Why do injectors leak oil around the seals, why not fuel or just raw burnt carbon? Also one of the clips appears to have been broken somehow by the previous owner, so I'll need to be tender with that. Looks like a torque deficit did these things in, the Torx bolts were pretty easy to break loose.
What's the best way to remove these from the block without an injector puller? Only 2 are loose enough to pull by hand, at least with the limited time I had this evening. Either way, it was a good idea to do this.
What's the best way to remove these from the block without an injector puller? Only 2 are loose enough to pull by hand, at least with the limited time I had this evening. Either way, it was a good idea to do this.
jdab555
Greenie Member
I also have a theory as to how you can visually check a broken PRV - the one I *think* is bad has the button inside the valve nearly all the way seated up against the nipple end, while the "new used" one I got has that button recessed really far down inside - pictures don't do it justice. We shall see if this fixes the fuel pressure issue at WOT, can't blow air through either of them, but that would fit my theory of having a partially failed valve.
jdab555
Greenie Member
Got my injectors free, they are all disgusting all of the injector holes are icky. While I work to clean those out today / tomorrow, curious if anyone has input on the below: I found that there is oil collecting on the throttle body gasket, but more acutely on the intake manifold where the manifold bolts to the head. There is an inordinate amount of oil getting into the intake passages. Could this be from the turbo? Intercooler looks free of oil, but its somehow getting into the intake tract in good quantities despite having two catch cans.
If it was the turbo it would be in the intercooler as well
jdab555
Greenie Member
Car is back together, started up just fine and I'm pretty sure all is well. Took a couple of logs at WOT and things are looking good as far as I can tell. HPFP actual is holding steady at 16-1700s throughout the pull
Pretty sure there is some funkiness going on with my valve stem seals, which would explain the oil in the intake manifold and how generally shitty the valves look only a few thousand miles after cleaning them. May address it deeper in the winter, but in the meantime I picked up a 3" intake and have the brackets inbound for the TR8, so I'll be dropping those in and doing a touch-up tune sometime soon. Figured a bigger intake would essentially max out the K04 as well as reduce some of the lag time induced by going with a FMIC.
Sticking to the K04 for now since it works well for autocross. Next event is this Sunday, so we'll see how that goes - I have a grudge match with a buddy who also has a Speed3, and victory is paramount since we are always within a few tenths of a second from each other.
Pretty sure there is some funkiness going on with my valve stem seals, which would explain the oil in the intake manifold and how generally shitty the valves look only a few thousand miles after cleaning them. May address it deeper in the winter, but in the meantime I picked up a 3" intake and have the brackets inbound for the TR8, so I'll be dropping those in and doing a touch-up tune sometime soon. Figured a bigger intake would essentially max out the K04 as well as reduce some of the lag time induced by going with a FMIC.
Sticking to the K04 for now since it works well for autocross. Next event is this Sunday, so we'll see how that goes - I have a grudge match with a buddy who also has a Speed3, and victory is paramount since we are always within a few tenths of a second from each other.
Get a battery powered air compressor and when he isn't looking bump up his tire pressure in between runs lol
jdab555
Greenie Member
We actually use a battery powered pump to check and tweak pressures. The only thing stopping me is the amount of runs we get is so few I would feel bad ruining one. I usually make him man the radio when working though so it all evens out.
jdab555
Greenie Member
Followup - beat my rival in the autocross. Car did great - asphalt temperature was a little low so my RE71rs weren't super happy, but I beat him by a solid .6 seconds and came in first in my class.
Definitely need to work on how I can tighten up the car, definitely didn't feel balanced correctly, which I can probably attribute 90% of to the Eibach springs.
Definitely need to work on how I can tighten up the car, definitely didn't feel balanced correctly, which I can probably attribute 90% of to the Eibach springs.
gotovato
Greenie Member
Suspension is everything. I’m willing to bet those eibach’s are doing nothing useful for you
jdab555
Greenie Member
Been a little while - car's been doing fine, using the same amount of oil, no biggie (valve stem seals probably).
It's taken me a little over 2 months to get a tracking number on the missing piece of my FMIC kit, specifically the BOV flange and connector. That dude has pissed me off to no end, but finally it looks like I'll finally get it.
With that, I got the FMIC mocked up, and found some areas that need trimming.
Overall, it looks like it fits really well for being a Gen2 kit. Will need some new clamps and maybe a longer throttle body silicon connector, but looking good.
That said, I will need to probably relocate this bracket that has a hardline connector and 2 grounds on it, as well as my second vented catch can which normally sits on the same bracket as my sealed can that feeds from the PCV valve.
I'm honestly not getting anything out of the vented can, which connects to the two open ports on the PCV plate. It could be I'm simply not making enough crank case pressure to make use of it, or I need to route it differently. Open to suggestions for a new placement.
Excited to get it together with a front mount, big fan of how it looks for some JDM points.
It's taken me a little over 2 months to get a tracking number on the missing piece of my FMIC kit, specifically the BOV flange and connector. That dude has pissed me off to no end, but finally it looks like I'll finally get it.
With that, I got the FMIC mocked up, and found some areas that need trimming.
Overall, it looks like it fits really well for being a Gen2 kit. Will need some new clamps and maybe a longer throttle body silicon connector, but looking good.
That said, I will need to probably relocate this bracket that has a hardline connector and 2 grounds on it, as well as my second vented catch can which normally sits on the same bracket as my sealed can that feeds from the PCV valve.
I'm honestly not getting anything out of the vented can, which connects to the two open ports on the PCV plate. It could be I'm simply not making enough crank case pressure to make use of it, or I need to route it differently. Open to suggestions for a new placement.
Excited to get it together with a front mount, big fan of how it looks for some JDM points.
jdab555
Greenie Member
Not the most exciting thread in existence, but its a huge milestone for me. Always wanted a FMIC car, and by golly I've got one now. Honestly surprised at how well the Gen 2 piping worked.
Loaded on the new revision from Justin and took it for a little drive last night for ~15 miles, temps are at 30F. Need to hit 30 miles before I can send him the logs, but I'm noticing LTFT at -7 / -8 when at idle, trims look pretty close to spot on in regular driving conditions, and the car idles totally smooth. Could be a function of the ECU getting any kinks worked out as a result of the new setup, as I put the car back up on ramps when I came home and boost leak tested but couldn't find anything leaking in the piping, and the car builds boost just fine with clean AFRs at moderate throttle.
One thing that did change beyond just a bigger intake and the FMIC is that I had to remove a catch can from my setup due to lack of space, and chose to take away the sealed can and put in its place my vented damond can, from PCV -> Can -> Check Valve -> IM. I spliced together the old lines coming from the ports on the PCV plate, so its essentially just a pressurized loop with no impact now until I feel like / need to remove the intake manifold for some reason.
I'll have to see how trims look this evening when temperatures are warmer and I can put some more miles on.
Loaded on the new revision from Justin and took it for a little drive last night for ~15 miles, temps are at 30F. Need to hit 30 miles before I can send him the logs, but I'm noticing LTFT at -7 / -8 when at idle, trims look pretty close to spot on in regular driving conditions, and the car idles totally smooth. Could be a function of the ECU getting any kinks worked out as a result of the new setup, as I put the car back up on ramps when I came home and boost leak tested but couldn't find anything leaking in the piping, and the car builds boost just fine with clean AFRs at moderate throttle.
One thing that did change beyond just a bigger intake and the FMIC is that I had to remove a catch can from my setup due to lack of space, and chose to take away the sealed can and put in its place my vented damond can, from PCV -> Can -> Check Valve -> IM. I spliced together the old lines coming from the ports on the PCV plate, so its essentially just a pressurized loop with no impact now until I feel like / need to remove the intake manifold for some reason.
I'll have to see how trims look this evening when temperatures are warmer and I can put some more miles on.
jdab555
Greenie Member
Sent in my logs to Justin last night. Trims at idle are still whacky, saw as high as -11 LTFT right before pulling into the garage. Car feels fine, AFRs are good and the logs are good (aside from major wheel spin). Attaching my idle log here, just want to see if there is anything I can do or look at to address it - boost leak test didn't show anything out of the ordinary from the intake with the VC capped off.
jdab555
Greenie Member
On the second revision, car drives great. VC gasket is leaking again, not sure why since its pretty new - could be improper installation on my part, or it doesn't like the torque specs included with the racethetix VC bolts. New gasket is on the way.
Also having issue popping the dipstick up a little under sustained wheel spin / redline due to cold temperatures while logging, causing excessive crankcase pressure. Looks like deleting my double vent from the PCV plate to vented can is causing it, but I can't fit that setup back in given the location of the piping, and the single vent from the pcv valve isn't cutting it. I have a used oil cap vent coming in later this week, which should resolve it.
Happy though, and the lighting was great yesterday for some beauty shots.
Also having issue popping the dipstick up a little under sustained wheel spin / redline due to cold temperatures while logging, causing excessive crankcase pressure. Looks like deleting my double vent from the PCV plate to vented can is causing it, but I can't fit that setup back in given the location of the piping, and the single vent from the pcv valve isn't cutting it. I have a used oil cap vent coming in later this week, which should resolve it.
Happy though, and the lighting was great yesterday for some beauty shots.
jdab555
Greenie Member
I know my thread is aggressively average, and I will continue to be just that.
FMIC Ducting!
Inspired by this thread - DIY: Radiator Ducting Gen1 (FMIC woes) | Mazdaspeeds.org, The New Era in Mazdaspeed, CX-7 & Ecoboost Forums!
Looking eliminate a decent amount of the lost air flow in front of the radiator before I actually start having cooling issues in the summer, I decided on a very similar approach, with some minor tweaking to make it easier. I'll be cutting out the metal form soon, which should be relatively simple. It likely won't be as effective as the OP in the thread above, but it's a quick thing I mocked up in about 15 minutes of trial and error, and it fits well enough on both sides. I also have yet to go officially tracking the car anywhere, so it should be enough for autocross and mountain runs / DD use.
There is a bit of a gap on the back end behind the piping, but I'll deal with that later, potentially on a future iteration if this isn't effective enough. In addition, I'll be closing off the ends of the grill on either side with a piece of plastic tucked in behind the grill, so this ducting doesn't need to be as far over on the side as the referenced post.
Here are my measurements - I would reckon for most applications this should work fine, as the front edge is measured to the front of the crashbar, and the bolt placement is the same on all cars. I forgot to note on the paper that the bolt-holding flange is 1 3/4" long, to allow variability for where you want your hole drilled
On the bottom edge, I found starting my curve cut around the FMIC piping at the 4 1/4" point was about right.
Cut out form that you then find your optimal curve-start with.:
Mocked up in place, works the same for both sides, just bend the tab the other way:
FMIC Ducting!
Inspired by this thread - DIY: Radiator Ducting Gen1 (FMIC woes) | Mazdaspeeds.org, The New Era in Mazdaspeed, CX-7 & Ecoboost Forums!
Looking eliminate a decent amount of the lost air flow in front of the radiator before I actually start having cooling issues in the summer, I decided on a very similar approach, with some minor tweaking to make it easier. I'll be cutting out the metal form soon, which should be relatively simple. It likely won't be as effective as the OP in the thread above, but it's a quick thing I mocked up in about 15 minutes of trial and error, and it fits well enough on both sides. I also have yet to go officially tracking the car anywhere, so it should be enough for autocross and mountain runs / DD use.
There is a bit of a gap on the back end behind the piping, but I'll deal with that later, potentially on a future iteration if this isn't effective enough. In addition, I'll be closing off the ends of the grill on either side with a piece of plastic tucked in behind the grill, so this ducting doesn't need to be as far over on the side as the referenced post.
Here are my measurements - I would reckon for most applications this should work fine, as the front edge is measured to the front of the crashbar, and the bolt placement is the same on all cars. I forgot to note on the paper that the bolt-holding flange is 1 3/4" long, to allow variability for where you want your hole drilled
On the bottom edge, I found starting my curve cut around the FMIC piping at the 4 1/4" point was about right. Cut out form that you then find your optimal curve-start with.:
Mocked up in place, works the same for both sides, just bend the tab the other way:
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