Building for the road course...again

[gotovato]

On another car I smeared the face of the hub with antiseize because it would get so nasty. I'm an idiot though too and was forgetting that the brake rotor would be mounted right there a solid wheel spacers would probably be overkill.

I wonder what grade the studs are and if they are maybe not quite strong enough to keep everything 100% tight on the track

Studs are just whatever comes in the hub. Not sure about grade but I’m guessing they’re OK since the hub fails before the studs?

I’m thinking to try buddies advice. I ordered a little tube of silicone grease. Was thinking to use copper anti seize since I have that but don’t want it making a mess everywhere.

I’ll go lightly with the grease just enough to prevent rust. Hopefully that helps with something

 

[L337TurboZ]

How often are the tires and wheels being balanced? If vibration is a factor that could add to the equation. Especially if you're going through mm of tires each event.

 

[Easter Bunny]

I wouldn't rule out the studs. If they are in elastic deformation at the loads you are putting on them they wouldn't fail but would allow things to move

 

[gotovato]

How often are the tires and wheels being balanced? If vibration is a factor that could add to the equation. Especially if you're going through mm of tires each event.

Mmmmmm yea lol. Definitely not having my shit balanced often at all. Basically at time of mounting and that’s it. This may be contributing though for sure

 

[gotovato]

I wouldn't rule out the studs. If they are in elastic deformation at the loads you are putting on them they wouldn't fail but would allow things to move

I guess any stretch of the studs would be enough. I’m just thinking corrosion and crap maybe getting between hub and rotor. Deformation would help this

 

[Easter Bunny]

Wire brush the shit out of the faces too

 

[gotovato]

Wire brush the shit out of the faces too

Installing the new passenger side hub today as well as new pads and rotors back there. Thinking I’ll brake clean the hubs then either use copper anti seize, molygrease, or I’m thinking to even use the hawk brake pad grease that comes with the pads. It’s high temp so it should work well there

 

[gotovato]

Track day success!!
Now first off, there was a TON of traffic. I couldn’t get almost any clean laps but the few I did were promising. Most of my footage I’m stuck behind people losing my mind lol.
Anyways…
Let me start by giving a little review here. Let’s start with the engine.
HOLY SHIT how this thing pulls now. It doesn’t matter what corner, above 5000rpm the engine response is next level. Immediate torque delivery pulling so strong all the way to 8900rpm. it actually pulls harder the higher you rev it, it doesn’t roll over at all. Fucking proper. Lap after lap just screaming. I am truly impressed. When you see my videos maybe it will make sense.

I was blown away I was neck and neck down the straights with hyundai N cars. Even leaving one corner with a c8 corvette slowing me down I was on his ass.
I will give credit where credit is due. My tuner/tune is incredible. It’s hard to describe how gooooood it feels. The engine response is on another level entirely. I love it. And it sounds amazing.

As a result? The car needs a lot more front end and I need to adjust to the much higher corner entry speeds. I started the day with these tires up front. Fresh tires in the rear.


Not much life left but I decided to use them till there’s no more. Even got a new personal best time on these tires, while lifting for traffic lol!

Tires held on the entire evening. Try this with a falken rt660 and you won’t even get close before it delaminates.
Car needs fresh tires, and maybe stiffen up the rear sway bar some more and that should be enough to get my handling balance in check.


I found myself reaching top speeds similar to my speed lol. Incredible.

Need to go through the videos tomorrow but I got some good footage and data for sure!

Tires by the end of the evening lol



Had great weather as well. It was like 26c. Not too hot!

 

[Easter Bunny]

Man I'm just glad it worked for a whole day

 

[gotovato]

Man I'm just glad it worked for a whole day

All I was thinking the whole time was “I didn’t bring any spare hubs. Oh man”

 

[gotovato]

one lap

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Glad to see you got it out for some good runs. Def looks like its rolling in and out of corners strong.

 

[gotovato]

Glad to see you got it out for some good runs. Def looks like its rolling in and out of corners strong.

Needs some front tires and some other minor suspension tweaks to dial out the newly acquired under steer. Otherwise the car felt great. The new engine setup is pulling hard!

 

[gotovato]

Talking with a buddy about my built engine setup/build plans.

I have a block that’s already been machined for it’s 86.5mm wiseco pistons. 11.5:1 compression pistons. I’ve got BC rods with 625 rod bolts to go with that.

The plan was to boost the car as we know. I am now thinking I’ll be keeping the car NA for the foreseeable future so I want to build a higher compression NA engine. I’m keeping it k20. Not interested in going k24.

One idea is to just sell the block/rods/pistons and buy everything new and start over for NA.

The other idea I had, was to sell the rods and pistons, and go with the same wiseco piston but with more dome for higher compression. 86.5mm still, using the same material(2618). I’m hoping the p2w specifications would be the same so I could use my already machined block? The higher compression pistons might call for a lower p2w spec but I hope not

What do we think here? I have some very valuable platform specific turbo pieces that are discontinued and worth a ton to sell so that would help lol. Not sure what to do here

 

[Easter Bunny]

I would just price it out to see what makes sense. Would the new pistons be custom?

 

[gotovato]

So wiseco actually makes a piston that would work. It’s 12.3:1 compression, 86.5mm, 2618 material. K650M865AP.

I currently have the 11.5:1 version of that piston. Or close to anyways. Im not sure if mine have the coatings like those but same 2618 material anyways

 

[Easter Bunny]

So what's the cheapest route and are good blocks readily available

 

[gotovato]

So what's the cheapest route and are good blocks readily available

An entire long block is easy enough to find. Around $1200 cad for a long block. If I could find a short block that might be best. Just move my head over.

part of me wonders if oversized valves might be worth while as well. Apparently that’s the next limitation in the factory head. Even before factory porting the stock intake valve size becomes a limit. If I do that, I’d probably want to buy a long block and send the whole thing out.

From a budget side reusing my already machined block would be the cheapest. I can use my existing head even as is and just slap it on and go. I’d get a more aggressive cam, and intake manifold and maybe a custom header as well. That would be the setup.


Selling my current rods and pistons would basically pay for the new ones. Using my already machined block just means no more expenses there. Or I sell my block with the rods and pistons and start over fresh. This would cost more since machining would be required again

 

[gotovato]

Just got off the phone with wiseco.

the high comp pistons they offer use identical p2w specs as my current pistons. Only difference is ring end gap. She said I could easily drop in the high comp pistons with no additional machining required.

because wiseco is local and I could tell the phone call was going well…

i asked her if they would be willing to swap my current pistons out with the high comp ones. Direct swap.

she’s goes…”come see us. Bring your pistons in. We’ll help you out no problem”.

amazing.

 

[Easter Bunny]

shit that is amazing. looks like you have your answer.