Crazycanadian
Greenie Member
Have you done anything to measure out dynamic camber curve or toe changes to help optimize what ride height works best?
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No unfortunately I haven’t gone through this yet but based on the internet these cars like to sit a little higher. Apparently the rear has some crazy toe charge under compression but more height back there seems to help apparently.Have you done anything to measure out dynamic camber curve or toe changes to help optimize what ride height works best?
I’ve got extended ball joints and extended tie rods. Probably need to go back to stock now.I am a bit surprised you don't have the ride height adjust ability. It does kinda make sense thought. Without roll center correction, most stock vehicles start doing funky thinks when you drop them more than an inch or 2.
Most people think "race car" stance handles better... lol...I’ve got extended ball joints and extended tie rods. Probably need to go back to stock now.
My limit seems to be to do with my bump stop height. Keeping the wheel from smashing the chassis/fender has taken away from my ability to lower the car.
That and the fact that the shocks have been made longer than default, with more stroke.
I guess a higher ride height is the side effect here. I do like knowing I have compression and droop travel. Too many times people just slam the car and they’re just bottoming out or riding around in their bump stops. A lot of people don’t even know what that feels like. They just think “car rides like shit? Must be a race car” lol.
After surveying a few of my track buddies, they’re all eating their bump stops lol but they are all low and cool so there is that.
I raised the car a half inch and now have my 2” compression travel. Car hasn’t rolled out of the garage yet but ride height isn’t bad. I may raise it another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. More compression more better specially for the curbs

Loading it onto the uhaul is going to be so much easier now too. It was always a slight pain in the ass before when it was much lower.Looks fine to me, and with that much height you could drive it around town if you had to without having to worry about much of anything scraping.
It's pretty nuts seeing V8 super cars curb hoping, land perfectly settled and off they go.Gotta be able to absorb bumps. Curbs. Shitty track surface. Maintaining tire contact is the number 1 goal above all else. Teams of smart smart people are engaged solely to figure out the best way to make sure the tire is not only touching the ground as much as possible, but how much of the tire is touching the ground and how. OEMs spend millions, hundreds of millions to figure this out.
Then Joe blow is gonna install his 600$ Coilovers and improve on this?
Yea. Ok lol. Sure.
I’ve learned so much. Watching race cars, even if they get air, the amount of droop is insane. It’s actually impressive how much suspension travel an actual race car has. Even TCA, TCR, lower level stuff. These production chassis’s are not slammed. Just not the case
No front bar in order to get good droop and keep the inside front from spinning up?So technically, I don’t run enough front spring rate to justify deleting it. I already roll over my tires a tad as is. I would need to increase spring rate by a good bit or more camber which I don’t wanna.
Now, the car would be loose AF with the front bar deleted and that might be good, or way too much.
Gonna see how much the wreckers want for the oem front bar. Should be cheap enough I can go grab one and we will do some testing.
The rake and the rear springs are also helping things here I think
No front bar seems to have added some compliance up front. Something. More grip. Way I see it, more rear bar makes the car more loose, more front bar usually tightens it up, adds understeer. No front bar should be as loose as it gets but I will definitely roll over the tire.No front bar in order to get good droop and keep the inside front from spinning up?