Ok, so you have done research (or didn't) and now you have a Speed. Congratulations! Now you are looking at customization, adding power, tuning, etc. In this thread, we are going to discuss steps we recommend (or wish we had taken) in our path to power.
Good started reference is what to look for in buying a Mazdaspeed.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-when-buying-a-used-mazdaspeed.10009/
Moving on, here is the advice we have to offer you. You may have a 100K mile pretty stock speed. However, before checking on on that parts order, you need to take a lot into consideration. Our speeds are 11-21 years old. Before slapping on the parts, take care and ensure the Speed is healthy for added power.
1) compression test. If you have 180, 180, 120, 180, then you need to look into motor building, as 3rd cylinder likes to spit pistons
2) If you have no record of a VVT/timing chain replacement in 100K miles, do that too.
Here is how: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...eed-3-mazdaspeed-6-cx-7-vvt-the-roku-way.855/
3) Injectors! So they have been spitting fuel a long time. Direct Injection can gum them up and that is not good. Send them out to be cleaned and get upgraded stainless steel filters.
4) While the manifold is off, look at the intake valves. If they look all tarred up and nasty, clean them. Here is how: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/valve-cleaning-how-to-do-it-and-why.5969/
5) Inspect (and then upgrade) the motor mounts, as they do wear out and wheel hop can break em. Corksport and Damond Motorsports (both are founding Approved Vendors) offer excellent options!
This list ill be edited and added to as more advice comes in. I plan to post links to threads here that can help guide everyone through these steps.
7) from @chris' speed 3 To add to maintenance:
The pcv system is important to prevent the crankcase pressures from getting too high
- If you've just bought your speed and don't know if it was ever changed I'd recommend changing the PCV valve while the intake manifold is off for servicing injectors and cleaning valves, its super easy to do when the manifolds off and it's a cheap part to change.
- Also adding a catch can to your pcv system can help with regulating crankcase pressure and keeping your intake manifold cleaner (Damond motorsports is the way to go for oil catch cans and pcv plate)
Now that all your maintenance is done and your starting to think about how you want to mod the speed:
there's 2 must have's before adding power mods
- Upgraded HPFP internals (auto tech, CorkSport) both brands are good, they are expensive but crucial before doing any mods, there's plenty of information about our hpfp on here, or check out CorkSport's articles about them
- Some method for tuning, common 2 are Cobb accessport and versatuner, these allow you to tune your car remotely by purchasing a tune from one of the reputable tuners for our platform, every power mod needs to be tuned for the safety of the engine.
The maps offered with the cobb accessport are not good and should be avoided, a pro tune from a reputable tuner is a much better and safer option
8) From @L337TurboZ My advice, stop running OTS maps and only buy parts once.
Decide what direction or power level you want for the car and only buy parts to get you to that. Start with Driver Mod (getting used to the car, knowing it's limits and limitations) and improve on that. Do some local AutoX events with it. See where it lacks.
Then do suspension and braking first. You'd be amazed at how much faster a car can be when you improve those two things even before improving power levels.
Do things in complete systems. Do you wanna take a turbo on and off 5 times? Buy EVERYTHING all at once for whatever you're gonna do. You'll save money on tuning, repeat repairs (coolant, oil, gaskets add up) and you will notice the biggest improvement overall.
At minimum the first mod should be HPFP upgrade. You don't need a tune for that and it is a safeguard against failure.
Choose your turbo, intercooler, downpipe, manifold, intake etc all at once. Wanna run a CST4? Or even something bigger? Then get all of it together first and do a big install over the weekend.
Want to build a block? Buy a 2.0 or 2.5 bottom end and adapt that for turbo use. You can find those cheaper than a 2.3 Mazdaspeed engine to build and they are more readily available.
Last thing is stop with the stance, excessive camber, and run some decent tires. Do research on tires, consider your location and weather. I'm in the South. I use Toyo Proxes R1R on my Miata and they work great. But they suck in the rain. So consider when and where you'll be driving.
Hope this helps.
9. From me, @Raider. Sage your speed. Get an exorcist involved. Ensure it's not demonically possessed. It's too late for me. But you are advised to purge the negative vibes of former owners.
10.from @Sho. Oem only thermostats or you will be in bad shape.
11. from @MacheteJames: Clean your MAF sensor. It absolutely makes a difference in throttle response and smoothness (and possibly MPG) to clean the element and it takes under five minutes. Check the o-ring while it's off to make sure it's not frayed.
Replacement o-rings are easily available via Amazon
12. @automaticonlyspeed3 has tips for bolts and stuff!
This list is probably more for newer owners, but could be useful in general.
As our cars age, and have been taken apart and put together.. and who knows what history if purchased used.. I would like to make a list of tips..
ANTI- SIEZE..
which bolts are a must to put this stuff on.. thoughts?
@Enki @Easter Bunny
Thread Locker..
Which areas would you strongly recommend add this stuff to
Easy break area's (be careful)
- turbo inlet pipe nipple to ebcs
- BOV bolts.. easy to snap.
-02 sensors,
- dashboard area melts in heat, don't press on it on hot days (learned this moving to Florida)
Bolts to replace (make life simpler)
- injectors bolts
-hpfp bolts
Good started reference is what to look for in buying a Mazdaspeed.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-when-buying-a-used-mazdaspeed.10009/
Moving on, here is the advice we have to offer you. You may have a 100K mile pretty stock speed. However, before checking on on that parts order, you need to take a lot into consideration. Our speeds are 11-21 years old. Before slapping on the parts, take care and ensure the Speed is healthy for added power.
1) compression test. If you have 180, 180, 120, 180, then you need to look into motor building, as 3rd cylinder likes to spit pistons
2) If you have no record of a VVT/timing chain replacement in 100K miles, do that too.
Here is how: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...eed-3-mazdaspeed-6-cx-7-vvt-the-roku-way.855/
3) Injectors! So they have been spitting fuel a long time. Direct Injection can gum them up and that is not good. Send them out to be cleaned and get upgraded stainless steel filters.
4) While the manifold is off, look at the intake valves. If they look all tarred up and nasty, clean them. Here is how: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/valve-cleaning-how-to-do-it-and-why.5969/
5) Inspect (and then upgrade) the motor mounts, as they do wear out and wheel hop can break em. Corksport and Damond Motorsports (both are founding Approved Vendors) offer excellent options!
This list ill be edited and added to as more advice comes in. I plan to post links to threads here that can help guide everyone through these steps.
7) from @chris' speed 3 To add to maintenance:
The pcv system is important to prevent the crankcase pressures from getting too high
- If you've just bought your speed and don't know if it was ever changed I'd recommend changing the PCV valve while the intake manifold is off for servicing injectors and cleaning valves, its super easy to do when the manifolds off and it's a cheap part to change.
- Also adding a catch can to your pcv system can help with regulating crankcase pressure and keeping your intake manifold cleaner (Damond motorsports is the way to go for oil catch cans and pcv plate)
Now that all your maintenance is done and your starting to think about how you want to mod the speed:
there's 2 must have's before adding power mods
- Upgraded HPFP internals (auto tech, CorkSport) both brands are good, they are expensive but crucial before doing any mods, there's plenty of information about our hpfp on here, or check out CorkSport's articles about them
- Some method for tuning, common 2 are Cobb accessport and versatuner, these allow you to tune your car remotely by purchasing a tune from one of the reputable tuners for our platform, every power mod needs to be tuned for the safety of the engine.
The maps offered with the cobb accessport are not good and should be avoided, a pro tune from a reputable tuner is a much better and safer option
8) From @L337TurboZ My advice, stop running OTS maps and only buy parts once.
Decide what direction or power level you want for the car and only buy parts to get you to that. Start with Driver Mod (getting used to the car, knowing it's limits and limitations) and improve on that. Do some local AutoX events with it. See where it lacks.
Then do suspension and braking first. You'd be amazed at how much faster a car can be when you improve those two things even before improving power levels.
Do things in complete systems. Do you wanna take a turbo on and off 5 times? Buy EVERYTHING all at once for whatever you're gonna do. You'll save money on tuning, repeat repairs (coolant, oil, gaskets add up) and you will notice the biggest improvement overall.
At minimum the first mod should be HPFP upgrade. You don't need a tune for that and it is a safeguard against failure.
Choose your turbo, intercooler, downpipe, manifold, intake etc all at once. Wanna run a CST4? Or even something bigger? Then get all of it together first and do a big install over the weekend.
Want to build a block? Buy a 2.0 or 2.5 bottom end and adapt that for turbo use. You can find those cheaper than a 2.3 Mazdaspeed engine to build and they are more readily available.
Last thing is stop with the stance, excessive camber, and run some decent tires. Do research on tires, consider your location and weather. I'm in the South. I use Toyo Proxes R1R on my Miata and they work great. But they suck in the rain. So consider when and where you'll be driving.
Hope this helps.
9. From me, @Raider. Sage your speed. Get an exorcist involved. Ensure it's not demonically possessed. It's too late for me. But you are advised to purge the negative vibes of former owners.
10.from @Sho. Oem only thermostats or you will be in bad shape.
Template public:_media_site_embed_youtube not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.
11. from @MacheteJames: Clean your MAF sensor. It absolutely makes a difference in throttle response and smoothness (and possibly MPG) to clean the element and it takes under five minutes. Check the o-ring while it's off to make sure it's not frayed.
Replacement o-rings are easily available via Amazon
12. @automaticonlyspeed3 has tips for bolts and stuff!
This list is probably more for newer owners, but could be useful in general.
As our cars age, and have been taken apart and put together.. and who knows what history if purchased used.. I would like to make a list of tips..
ANTI- SIEZE..
which bolts are a must to put this stuff on.. thoughts?
@Enki @Easter Bunny
Thread Locker..
Which areas would you strongly recommend add this stuff to
Easy break area's (be careful)
- turbo inlet pipe nipple to ebcs
- BOV bolts.. easy to snap.
-02 sensors,
- dashboard area melts in heat, don't press on it on hot days (learned this moving to Florida)
Bolts to replace (make life simpler)
- injectors bolts
-hpfp bolts
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