davychronic's build

Just to update this since ive been driving the 6 a little. Had a hell of a time getting the corksport exhaust to mount up where it isnt hitting my rear subframe, rear driveshaft support bearing, and the pinch welds at the tips so i reverted back to my magnaflow catback until i can get the corksport exhaust modified to drop it down about a half inch. Its running pretty flawless, actually very surprised at how little knock retard is getting picked up. When the engine and everything was stock i would usually register .70 while crusing and now i might get .35 if i shift hard.
I had p0012 come up once so i pulled the valve cover and cleaned the cam sensor, cleaned and teated my ocv (7.5ohm and applying voltage would actuate the spool valve) and verified my timing and vvt has the notch and groove aligned. It hasnt come back in say 100 miles of driving but i have noticed that my vvt is not doing what i have it commanded to do in the tune. It pretty much stays at 0 for 100% of the time. Im not real sure how to attack this yet, im gone through the diagnostic procedures in the fsm and the only things i didnt check are the oil pressure (the light has never come on) and checking the passage from the ocv to the vvt actuator, maybe the oil passage is clogged? The head is a fresh reman since new heads from mazda were on a backorder with no date. It idles butter smooth and has zero drivability issues. Im about to road trip the car to Texas tomorrow night to visit family and start tuning it when i get down there.
I kind of expected it to feel a little dead down low with the cams and the bigger turbo but it actually feels torquier at part throttle. Im a little pleasantly surprised at how good the response is on this turbo. I expected it to be "laggy" but it builds 10psi at 3k rpm easy under part throttle.
So far so good minus the exhaust dilemma and this vvt issue.
 
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Well i decided to advance my intake cam a tooth and bam vvt is working properly and all is good and im headed to Texas in a couple hours. Woohoo
 
Glad you got it working good! I was worried when you started talking about the possibility of low oil pressure.


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98.6 degrees... 100% humidity?
No thanks.


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I don't think it's been too humid lately. When it rains, definitely, but it's been more a dry heat. But still crazy hot if you're in the sun nonetheless. If you can get a good sweat going it's not bad.
 
So here is my tuning progress so far, slowly working my way up. This has all just been 91 octane with no aux fueling yet. Trying to get a feel for everything and make sure nothing goes wrong so its been baby steps but I feel like I got a lot done in my first day of tuning. I am load tuning and getting pretty close to 100 idc so now im just working on timing and smoothing out my afrs and then ill start tuning on e30 then add aux fueling and see how far I can go. I dont know if its the cams or what but adding in vvt makes a hell of a difference down low where I never really seemed to feel a difference adding vvt, probably because those small turbos spin up so fast. You can see in my most recent pull, the torque curve gets super steep and thats mostly from adding more vvt.

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Got lucky and ran the tank to about empty so i filled up on e30 straight from the pump (lucky me) and started tuning with that and this is why I love e30 so much. First log on e30 at fairly low boost already making more power than 91.

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I dont know why i went with a kevlar clutch what a pita break in period it has. So i turned on my aux fuel setup and tried doing a log and the clutch slipped just over 20 psi

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So im still working on driving around with aux fueling off and working on my afrs and timing until this gay clutch is ready to grab for more power
 
1200WHP ain't bad on 24lbs of Boost. Lol

I have the SouthBend S3E that has the Kevlar disk. They recommend 500-750miles of just normal low RPM engagement. Does your clutch manufacturer recommend the same procedure?


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Yea 500 miles of stop and go "city driving" but the closest city to me is almost 2 hours away. Im doing the best i can with breaking it in where i live. Hard for me to believe the manufacturers recomendations when i read online everywhere that kevlar friction clutches really take more like 1500 miles to break in properly. I should have gone twin disc...
 
So i ordered the 6 puck act clutch disc with ceramic pads which have a much easier break in period. My kevlar clutch must be glazed, it wont hold more that 400 tq. This is the last time i waste money on a kevlar clutch for anything, what garbage.
 
That really sucks. What a waste of time. Do you happen to want my ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch disk? You can try it out for free.




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Thats a lot of work to try something out haha. I already ordered this...

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Wasnt too pricey and it should work with my pressure plate (custom) and act streetlite flywheel. Im not sure if id be very comfortable with an unsprung disc either but i appreciate the offer.
 
Thats a lot of work to try something out haha. I already ordered this...

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Wasnt too pricey and it should work with my pressure plate (custom) and act streetlite flywheel. Im not sure if id be very comfortable with an unsprung disc either but i appreciate the offer.

Let me send you it, then tell them you got the wrong one. Then you get two, or maybe even your money back. Serves them right anyways for making a shit kevlar disk.

I swear. I cant even give this thing away. Makes you wonder about the previous owner of my car.


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Let me send you it, then tell them you got the wrong one. Then you get two, or maybe even your money back. Serves them right anyways for making a shit kevlar disk.

I swear. I cant even give this thing away. Makes you wonder about the previous owner of my car.


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Haha well my original clutch isnt an ACT, i bought off a guy on the old forum before he got a bad name. I think his company was RDMotorsports or something. There were a few speed3 owners that chimed in saying they had the same clutch and it was great. I should have known better but oh well at least it works on act parts. Im not sure why the po of your car thought an unsprung clutch would be a good buy. You get a lot of noise and vibration and really harsh engagement, thats a full racecar clutch. Do you have just the disc or a full kit?
 
I have a brand new disk and a used pressure plate and used flywheel. I think he was planning to just throw the disk on and hope for the best. The flywheel needs to be resurfaced and I don't trust the pressure plate which is why I went with SB.


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