davychronic
Greenie Member
Is it the streetlite or prolite flywheel? Pics? How much you want for it all? Im always up for spare parts like that, i dont know what kind of damage if any this clutch did to my flywheel or pressure plate.
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- Thread starter davychronic
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Is it the streetlite or prolite flywheel? Pics? How much you want for it all? Im always up for spare parts like that, i dont know what kind of damage if any this clutch did to my flywheel or pressure plate.
Let me know if you want it, PM me your address and I'll send it over.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
davychronic
Greenie Member
Just an fyi for anyone that reads this that goes with a precision 46mm ewg. The inlet clamp they provide doesnt tighten down enough to hold the wg in place and it leaks. Its also cast stainless steel or aluminum compared to tials forged stainless steel clamp. I decided to pick up a tial clamp on amazon for $25 and it is perfect, much higher quality and it tightens up the wg much better.
Also ive been working on fitting some flares for more suspension travel with my wide tires. I was able to cut about an inch out of the rear quarters and front fenders. Welding and grinding/sanding the rear seams has been a pita with such thin metal but its done and sealed now so im glad its over with. Almost done with this project then on to the next.
Next on the list is swapping out the clutch which has no break-in period, act reccomends a few hard slips is all. It is ceramic instead of kevlar and apparently very grabby and not streetable.
Also ive been working on fitting some flares for more suspension travel with my wide tires. I was able to cut about an inch out of the rear quarters and front fenders. Welding and grinding/sanding the rear seams has been a pita with such thin metal but its done and sealed now so im glad its over with. Almost done with this project then on to the next.
Next on the list is swapping out the clutch which has no break-in period, act reccomends a few hard slips is all. It is ceramic instead of kevlar and apparently very grabby and not streetable.
davychronic
Greenie Member
So i pulled the powertrain to change out the clutch because i have my subframe adjusted for caster and i aint fuggin with that. Anyways so i pull the clutch assembly and it looks fine and from how the pads are worn and the wear pattern on the pressure plate i believe the pressure plate is the issue causing the clutch to slip under load.
So the lesson ive learned from all this, dont fuggin trust anyones opinion on these forums when it comes to parts that arent widely used. If i had time i would link the thread on the old forum where people were discussing this clutch setup and saying how great it is. The clutch does look good but when you send a piece of trash pressure plate with it then why offer it? Lesson learned.
Edit: a little googling of the part number on the pressure plate comes up with a pressure plate for sale on rock auto for $32 so yea
So hopefully this weekend i can throw it all back together with my new act disc and pressure plate and try a heavier spring in my wg and start the tuning process over again. Im aiming for 550hp limited by my 3 bar map.
So the lesson ive learned from all this, dont fuggin trust anyones opinion on these forums when it comes to parts that arent widely used. If i had time i would link the thread on the old forum where people were discussing this clutch setup and saying how great it is. The clutch does look good but when you send a piece of trash pressure plate with it then why offer it? Lesson learned.
Edit: a little googling of the part number on the pressure plate comes up with a pressure plate for sale on rock auto for $32 so yea
So hopefully this weekend i can throw it all back together with my new act disc and pressure plate and try a heavier spring in my wg and start the tuning process over again. Im aiming for 550hp limited by my 3 bar map.
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davychronic
Greenie Member
Looks so much better now, shoutout to @EdgeAutosport.com for overnighting this pressure plate for me
However i am delayed because my local (and when i say local, its a 2.5 hour drive) mazda dealer has parts guys that cant handle the simple task of ordering me the right seals and axle clips for my trans so im off to the ford dealer in my little town in the morning to see if they can help me out. I even gave them the part numbers for the clips but i couldnt find the part number for the driver side output shaft seal, apparently they couldnt either.
However i am delayed because my local (and when i say local, its a 2.5 hour drive) mazda dealer has parts guys that cant handle the simple task of ordering me the right seals and axle clips for my trans so im off to the ford dealer in my little town in the morning to see if they can help me out. I even gave them the part numbers for the clips but i couldnt find the part number for the driver side output shaft seal, apparently they couldnt either.
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Sho
Silver Member
Heads up,
I use this on my pw46 with the cpe manifold and its sooo much easier to put on and take off than the normal wastegate clamps
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=CLC-CLA-035&Category_Code=CLA
I use this on my pw46 with the cpe manifold and its sooo much easier to put on and take off than the normal wastegate clamps
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=CLC-CLA-035&Category_Code=CLA
davychronic
Greenie Member
Nice wish I would have seen this before, my tial clamp is holding up really good right now tho and I hope im done pulling it for awhile.
So after searching and waiting for a week for the damn driver side axle seal i finally got everything going again and im starting all over with tuning pretty much because i added a spring in the wg. Good news is the act clutch and pressure plate are holding up great. Here is my first dl at 18psi.
I also did a little body work to add some flares to fit my 245/45 tires because I tried everything i could to not get them to rub. So heres a couple in process photos and some finished product photos.
I welded, sealed and rhino lined the quarter seams in case anyone is wondering and what a pita it was and im glad its over. Had to be very careful, had my hobart 190 mig set as low as it would go and ot would still easily burn through if i went too fast.
Code Monkey
Silver Member
Must be some crazy offset on the wheels, I never had any rubbing problems running 255's on 17x9 ULRs.
davychronic
Greenie Member
They are 18x8+40, im sure if i had got 245/40 tires they wouldnt rub but since i got 245/45 they rub like a fat stripper in a trailer park strip club. I added 20mm bolt on spacers to fit the flares better. Probably looking at buying higher offset wheels in the near future so i wont need the spacers.
davychronic
Greenie Member
I have a speed3 unfortunately. For my rear endlinks I used washers of different thickness to shim the preload off.
I think for a speed6 you need a different style endlink. I think AWR made some a while back, no idea if whiteline does. I remember them being short, you might be able to make your own from some Heim joint ends.
I think for a speed6 you need a different style endlink. I think AWR made some a while back, no idea if whiteline does. I remember them being short, you might be able to make your own from some Heim joint ends.
davychronic
Greenie Member
Yea im having issues getting my rear suspension adjusted to the height i want and im fairly confident my endlinks are whats holding me back with this whiteline rsb.
Code Monkey
Silver Member
AWR endlinks. I also have a Whiteline RSB.
davychronic
Greenie Member
Yea i guess they dont offer them anymore. Boo. I guess i could try and cut some stock ones and cut theads on them and make some myself and see how they turn out.
davychronic
Greenie Member
Well ive been tuning a lot today and im at a safe point to stop for awhile once i iron out my fuel curve. Im starting to run out of fuel and im close to the limit of my map sensor. So heres a little progress picture from where i started when i got the new clutch in and now. Im pretty happy where its at, feels good for being 90* out. Obviously i dont put a lot of stock into vd numbers, it does however make a great tuning tool. There is still plenty of room to go with this turbo so once i get a 3.5 or 4 bar and add some more fuel somehow then ill see what the limit of the 5858 is.
Heres a comparison with my last log with the corksport turbo, pushing that turbo to the limit.
Heres a comparison with my last log with the corksport turbo, pushing that turbo to the limit.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
What afr are you shooting for, looking pretty lean.
davychronic
Greenie Member
13, lean is mean. Im at 95% idc and i spray a ton of meth which allows a very lean afr and i have 0 knock with 16* timing. Im not one of those guys thats buys into the theory that there isnt more power to be made tuning lean. Running lean gives me more fuel headroom for more boost which makes more power. As long as i dont knock, im good.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Also, glad to see a fellow Iowan in here. I grew up near Sioux City and visited the dirty dodge from time to time.
davychronic
Greenie Member
Yea I avoid ft dodge like the plague. Did a couple years at Iowa Central there before i tranferred to Iowa State. Im glad 20 runs south of town now so you dont have to drive through it. I have yet to see a mazdaspeed anywhere in Iowa, but I do live on a farm in the middle of nowhere.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Yeah not a lot of speed guys that do anything around here either. UNI 4 life Panther Power!
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