mangosmoothie
Greenie Member
I remember from a while ago your goal was to do 60-100 in 3rd. So you working on plumbing a pi system to really let it rip?
Disi-MZResponse
- Thread starter Enki
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You could just open another credit card for the pi shit. You averaged balance per account could go down
Enki
Motorhead
No, I gotta be careful; it's too easy to fuck yourself over with too many lines of credit. I've got ~13k balance on my main card, and ~1700 on Paypal. I just got two lines of credit paid off and it's still a fight to get those last two lines down.
I don't make enough to do 4 decent payments (basically 3 minimums and 1 decent), but my credit is good enough (and my limits high enough) to buy me a set of financial concrete shoes if I'm not careful.
lol
I don't make enough to do 4 decent payments (basically 3 minimums and 1 decent), but my credit is good enough (and my limits high enough) to buy me a set of financial concrete shoes if I'm not careful.
lol
I was joking but I wouldn’t mind seeing this build get done faster.....
mr_mazda329
Greenie Member
Everton992000
Greenie Member
I learned my lesson with my second engine. Between a small personal loan and credit cards I had somewhere around $11k. I paid it off within 14 months of getting all that stuff and still ended up paying about $2500 in interest. Never again. Kudos to you Enki.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
We don’t do that sort of thing here.
Enki
Motorhead
So, uh, blew the double coupler shit I have set up yesterday apparently and didn't realize it until today. Got into town, tried to roll on the throttle a little bit and car started going mega rich while making nice woosh noises and slowing down. Got to the gas station, and that's when I figured it out.
Wound up having to learn how to drive it like that (with enough RPM at light throttle, the turbo spins up and draws air through the MAF to drive semi normally) as it was taking too long to cool down to pull the TMIC and fix and this was my lunch break.
So now, added to the list, is a need for a better hose solution for that area (or at least to re-do it).
On the bright side, tacos.
Wound up having to learn how to drive it like that (with enough RPM at light throttle, the turbo spins up and draws air through the MAF to drive semi normally) as it was taking too long to cool down to pull the TMIC and fix and this was my lunch break.
So now, added to the list, is a need for a better hose solution for that area (or at least to re-do it).
On the bright side, tacos.
Pics of double coupler that failed?
Enki
Motorhead
I didn't think anyone would actually be interested in this but I did take a pic outside of the local "year and make please" shop:
Might be hard to see but it's a Mishimoto hump coupler and a cut down factory coupler with a 2" beadrolled aluminum insert.The spacing wasn't right on the insert so now I have to pull the TMIC to take this all back apart and redo it before putting it back on the car. I'm guessing the top t-bolt clamp wasn't under the beadroll (sitting on top of it) and that's why it slipped.
In other news I think I was making 24 PSI before it let go.
For anyone else interested, this is what my (WIP) WGDC map looks like; I'll work on the transients after I'm satisfied with where it is at WOT:
Might be hard to see but it's a Mishimoto hump coupler and a cut down factory coupler with a 2" beadrolled aluminum insert.The spacing wasn't right on the insert so now I have to pull the TMIC to take this all back apart and redo it before putting it back on the car. I'm guessing the top t-bolt clamp wasn't under the beadroll (sitting on top of it) and that's why it slipped.
In other news I think I was making 24 PSI before it let go.
For anyone else interested, this is what my (WIP) WGDC map looks like; I'll work on the transients after I'm satisfied with where it is at WOT:
You should mark your coupler setup, itll help everytime you have to remove/reinstall it.
Figure out how much clearance you need for your Tbolt clamp, and mark your union with a sharpie so you know how much contact area you need on it with your coupler.
Like so....
I think I measured around 1.25"-1.5" (cant remember exactly right now) for tbolt clearance from the bead roll. This takes the guessing game out of coupler installation and will let your hump coupler work better once it's all seated properly.
Figure out how much clearance you need for your Tbolt clamp, and mark your union with a sharpie so you know how much contact area you need on it with your coupler.
Like so....
I think I measured around 1.25"-1.5" (cant remember exactly right now) for tbolt clearance from the bead roll. This takes the guessing game out of coupler installation and will let your hump coupler work better once it's all seated properly.
I've heard that if you unplug the MAF when a coupler goes, you can drive it back home with ease... If I remember correctly.
Enki
Motorhead
Both couplers seat fully on their respective sides; the issue was that the insert wasn't lined up properly or there was too much force on it. I'll figure that out when I fix it, but ultimately, it shouldn't be an issue going forward as I'll reassemble it off the car (and lock it down), then install it as one piece.
Maz, I don't think that will work too well on my car as I think that will use the VE tables and mine, well, they should be (but aren't) very, very different.
Maz, I don't think that will work too well on my car as I think that will use the VE tables and mine, well, they should be (but aren't) very, very different.
Enki
Motorhead
So, had to cut a new insert during my lunch; wound up making it just long enough to not need bead rolling, as the TMIC has to be pulled to remove it anyways.
BATs still killing me here; 160 up top causing a 4 degree drop in timing. This is an E30 map, so I can bump the boost a bit more now but not real sure I should.
I'd add more timing, but with these temps there's not a whole lot of a point in doing so. For now, I think I'll continue to work on drivability and try to figure out the load issue.
BATs still killing me here; 160 up top causing a 4 degree drop in timing. This is an E30 map, so I can bump the boost a bit more now but not real sure I should.
I'd add more timing, but with these temps there's not a whole lot of a point in doing so. For now, I think I'll continue to work on drivability and try to figure out the load issue.
Enki
Motorhead
Driver's side axle seal swapped (fuck that shit, never again), trans fluid changed and I'm now on normal engine oil too...Though I think I overfilled more than I anticipated as I just gave quite a lot of people a rather nasty smoke show.
The PCV hose to the intake is wet, so next weekend or so I'm going to pull the intake, TMIC, and throttle body and inspect/clean where needed.
If it ain't one thing, it's another.
The PCV hose to the intake is wet, so next weekend or so I'm going to pull the intake, TMIC, and throttle body and inspect/clean where needed.
If it ain't one thing, it's another.
Enki
Motorhead
Random bs update:
Def had too much oil in the car, that's why it smoked like hell at WOT. Oil in the intake wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be, and it's not smoked a whisp since, so I think it's gonna be fine; just take a while to clean out.
In other news:
More RPMS more better but also more expensive and higher wear
Def had too much oil in the car, that's why it smoked like hell at WOT. Oil in the intake wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be, and it's not smoked a whisp since, so I think it's gonna be fine; just take a while to clean out.
In other news:
More RPMS more better but also more expensive and higher wear
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