Don't forget needing the factory gauge cluster to run
Disi-MZResponse
- Thread starter Enki
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Don't forget needing the factory gauge cluster to run
At the end of the day it's better than the motor being blown up and junked. I would bet @masonvi could Fab up a cam plate that would allow you to install them correctly
Edit how the hell do mentions work here
Crower being assholes? There's something new. Here's my review of them on their FB page. Still on their featured reviews lol.
Lol jokes on you now I know your real name. It's just a matter of time before you start getting mail filled with glitter dicks
Shane sounds like a bag of fucks. If that's the type of guy they employ and have no qualms about him being a liar, then I know who to avoid when I (never because I'm a baby) buy cams for my motor.
mangosmoothie
Greenie Member
so while talking about cams, can anyone re-grind the hpfp lobe for more fuel? Derrick @ cs said he looked into it and ramp angles got weird. curious if anyone else has given it some thought
Enki
Motorhead
I think most HPFP systems use a 3 lobe cam for a reason; I do think a 4 lobe system would be better from a flow stability standpoint, and a 2 lobe system would be better for higher RPM. The best of both worlds would be a tuned system with two pumps offset properly to coincide with injection timing, or one big pump driven off a chain/belt/etc on the crank.
I had another thought about how to address this last night. Could you just have a new slot cut in the end of the cams at the correct angle? Beyond timing the motor those slots aren't structural so I don't think there would be an issue
Enki
Motorhead
Sure I could, but there's some issues with even thinking about doing anything with the cams:
1. The blind plug for the timing chain tensioner is rounded out, so the front cover has to come off completely
2. I had issues with the timing chain tensioner bolts getting to torque spec (they aren't) and this may rear its ugly head if I begin fucking with it
3. I'd need a degree wheel to measure actual cam timing
4. The spring perches are installed upside down so any lift higher than what I have (if moving to another set of cams, which would be ideal) might result in actual coil bind
5. The slot might only be off enough to result in a widening of the existing slot, which would result in no real locking of the cams
6. Fuck crower
1. The blind plug for the timing chain tensioner is rounded out, so the front cover has to come off completely
2. I had issues with the timing chain tensioner bolts getting to torque spec (they aren't) and this may rear its ugly head if I begin fucking with it
3. I'd need a degree wheel to measure actual cam timing
4. The spring perches are installed upside down so any lift higher than what I have (if moving to another set of cams, which would be ideal) might result in actual coil bind
5. The slot might only be off enough to result in a widening of the existing slot, which would result in no real locking of the cams
6. Fuck crower
Well that fucking sucks
Enki
Motorhead
Yeah honestly my best option is to have an engine builder build me a whole new engine and then part this one out or sell it as a core to someone after the swap. If I do that, though, I might as well go the standalone route too because Versatune can't be assed to acknowledge I exist as a customer anymore.
Enki
Motorhead
So minor update:
I've been having some issues surrounding exhaust pops and strange behavior on decel (clutch in). I've adjusted the high RPM retard tables as well as the DBW tables and hopefully those issues will be resolved.
Last map also had a degree more timing in it and made more power, so I've added another degree and redid the entire low end to be closer to stock to see if that helps driveability and MPG.
VVT is now in full force without the sounds of piston to valve contact, and my VVT curve is aggressive as hell. I'm actually debating running it full time (even at idle) but I'm not sure if that's safe due to lower oil pressure at idle.
I've also adjusted the MAF curve up by 5%, in line with what I'm seeing up top and at lower loads (not perfect but closer).
EDIT:
For anyone wondering, this is what an aggressive VVT curve looks like:
EDIT 2:
Decided to take the VVT out further.
I've been having some issues surrounding exhaust pops and strange behavior on decel (clutch in). I've adjusted the high RPM retard tables as well as the DBW tables and hopefully those issues will be resolved.
Last map also had a degree more timing in it and made more power, so I've added another degree and redid the entire low end to be closer to stock to see if that helps driveability and MPG.
VVT is now in full force without the sounds of piston to valve contact, and my VVT curve is aggressive as hell. I'm actually debating running it full time (even at idle) but I'm not sure if that's safe due to lower oil pressure at idle.
I've also adjusted the MAF curve up by 5%, in line with what I'm seeing up top and at lower loads (not perfect but closer).
EDIT:
For anyone wondering, this is what an aggressive VVT curve looks like:
EDIT 2:
Decided to take the VVT out further.
Last edited:
I do not believe that there is enough oil flow to actuate vvt at low rpms.
Your testing my memory now. It was someone on the old forum who did a bunch of logs testing it out. Maybe @phate since he's trying to keep a k04 spooled at idle
Why not just have a used good block bored/decked and reuse the crank, rods, and pistons as-is and reinstall with some CS cams? That might be a nice compromise that could get you close to your original goal using off the shelf parts.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
They still really pretty. Why did you say the retainers need to be flipped on the head springs?Plus my block is factory new, and the pistons I have now in a stock configuration would be over 14:1 compression.
Edit, because people forgot:
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