GCPhotographers Build

No problems honestly, just had a terrible experience with their customer service. I will never buy any of their products again.

I can tell you my carrillo rods are smaller, lighter, and stronger than my manley rods were.
 
davychronic said:
Thats the great thing about owning a car, you can do what you want.
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Of course! Many people even run stock pistons in their rebuilds, and almost exclusively use the Genpu version for their refinements, like the DI pocket. Lex from Stratified was talking about how it was likely part of Mazda's method of quelling LSPI that plagued Wons.
davychronic said:
No problems honestly, just had a terrible experience with their customer service. I will never buy any of their products again.

I can tell you my carrillo rods are smaller, lighter, and stronger than my manley rods were.
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I've heard Carillo x-beams are awesome. I think they're like $800-$900 or so too, right? Some of their rods are $1,200 (and the high-end Manleys too, for that matter): http://edgeautosport.com/2010/mazda/mazdaspeed-3.html#/?_=1&filter.car_hierarchy=2010/Mazda/Mazdaspeed 3&filter.parts_hierarchy=Engine/Internals&page=1
I'm just thankful I can get rod that'll fit my goals and have no strength issues for my goal power level for <$400. Regarding Carillos, you get what you pay for, right? If I did an all-out built, I would probably go Carillos.
 
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Redline said:
I'm just thankful I can get rod that'll fit my goals and have no strength issues for my goal power level for <$400. Regarding Carillos, you get what you pay for, right? If I did an all-out built, I would probably go Carillos.
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$1,324.76 for H-Beam, CARR, 22.5 Carillos.
My question would be about longevity
 
the h beam with carr bolts was like $1100 which was worth it to me but maybe not for you. Carr bolts can be reused where the normal bolts will have to be replaced after one use. If you ever need any help from manley customer service or they happen to send you the wrong pistons on the right box, god help you
 
davychronic said:
the h beam with carr bolts was like $1100 which was worth it to me but maybe not for you. Carr bolts can be reused where the normal bolts will have to be replaced after one use. If you ever need any help from manley customer service or they happen to send you the wrong pistons on the right box, god help you
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That is definitely a messed up situation. It's my first build. I hope my luck is decent. I am tempted at times to have someone etc do it but I want to know that I can build something that will work and not just work temporarily..
 
Its a fun process, take your time, check everything like 5 times before you do it. Always ask questions if something confuses you, never guess. Those rings that come with those manley pistons have a little dot that has to face up, make sure you dont pass by small things like that. Youll have fun building and have a lot of pride in the end once its done and running. Engine builders arent superhuman they just have better tools and experience. Get yourself the right tools and youll be half way there.
 
davychronic said:
Its a fun process, take your time, check everything like 5 times before you do it. Always ask questions if something confuses you, never guess. Those rings that come with those manley pistons have a little dot that has to face up, make sure you dont pass by small things like that. Youll have fun building and have a lot of pride in the end once its done and running. Engine builders arent superhuman they just have better tools and experience. Get yourself the right tools and youll be half way there.
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Yeah. This build will take approximately 2-3yrs to complete...maybe long because of my budget. I am definitely in no rush especially because I am doing at my own pace. I will be taking many photos like I did with my disassembly with many a few videos. I just purchased a timing tool because it was being sold used for 35$. There a few tools I will definitely need to purchase especially a proper torque wrenches. All 3 of my current torque wrenches are from harbor freight.
[doublepost=1485881016][/doublepost]Timing tool images below
 

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Yes having the right tool for whatever you are doing makes all the difference on whether you have a fun time or having a terrible time. You can easily spend more on tools than car parts doing a complete build. Shit i just bought a tig welder because i dont trust a shop to weld up my intercooler pipes or ewg dump pipe the way i want. If they are click type torque wrenches you got at harbor freight, I would have them calibrated since you could easily over or under-torque something critical like the cam bearing caps and breaking one of those bolts could ruin your day fast not to mention the cam damage that could occur.
 
davychronic said:
Yes having the right tool for whatever you are doing makes all the difference on whether you have a fun time or having a terrible time. You can easily spend more on tools than car parts doing a complete build. Shit i just bought a tig welder because i dont trust a shop to weld up my intercooler pipes or ewg dump pipe the way i want. If they are click type torque wrenches you got at harbor freight, I would have them calibrated since you could easily over or under-torque something critical like the cam bearing caps and breaking one of those bolts could ruin your day fast not to mention the cam damage that could occur.
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So are you saying those torque wrenches are good and all I need to do is collaborate them?
 
davychronic said:
b516120e546e44a310321174ffb21e66.jpg


Manleys after 5k miles 425ish hp with tons of meth

If i still had them id take better pics of how bad the moly coating was wore off
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Coatings aren't meant to last the life of the piston. It's not unusual for them to wear off fast. A large amount of a cylinder wall's wear happens during break in, which is why you want a coating. Machining processes like plateau honing can reduce break in wear and extend coat life as well. Also, there are tons of different kinds of coatings, that can be put on at different thicknesses, they can be self clearancing, they have different effects on wear and oil shedding or retention. The point I'm getting at is that coatings are useful.

As for rods, Manleys have been taken to 860whp to my knowledge so they're pretty beefy. That quote you got is a pretty good price for that much work. Be sure to inquire about turn around time as well, some shops can take 6+ months for turn around.
 
If the torque wrench is calibrated its good, problem is how long will it stay in calibration is where quaility tools come through.

Yea i dont doubt coating have their uses but with .003in ptw clearance you cant apply too much. Manley puts on a .0005in moly coating on theirs.
 
davychronic said:
If the torque wrench is calibrated its good, problem is how long will it stay in calibration is where quaility tools come through.

Yea i dont doubt coating have their uses but with .003in ptw clearance you cant apply too much. Manley puts on a .0005in moly coating on theirs.
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Self clearancing coatings are awesome. The pistons is coated to be .0005-.001" larger than the bore and the coating self clearances as the engine runs.
 
AYOUSTIN said:
Self clearancing coatings are awesome. The pistons is coated to be .0005-.001" larger than the bore and the coating self clearances as the engine runs.
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I'm guessing that's a really effective way of quieting 2618s, stopping slap, etc? I need to learn more about coatings... they sound amazing.
 
Love my cp pistons in the motorcycle. Different platform but they definitely took some hellish abuse.

Tq wrench, just remember to set to min value as soon as your done with a group of hardware.
 
PURPFOX said:
Love my cp pistons in the motorcycle. Different platform but they definitely took some hellish abuse.

Tq wrench, just remember to set to min value as soon as your done with a group of hardware.
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people talk negative about harbor freight torque wrenches. The question is it worth the risk on a build.
 
GCPhotographers said:
people talk negative about harbor freight torque wrenches. The question is it worth the risk on a build.
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As long as it's well-calibrated, I'd think you should be fine. Any folks in here who've assembled blocks disagree? Seems to me the key is to ensure it's accurate with a calibration process rather than count on it being accurate with no proof. Shouldn't need a $200-$300 Snap-On digital torque wrench for this.
 
Redline said:
As long as it's well-calibrated, I'd think you should be fine. Any folks in here who've assembled blocks disagree? Seems to me the key is to ensure it's accurate with a calibration process rather than count on it being accurate with no proof. Shouldn't need a $200-$300 Snap-On digital torque wrench for this.
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Location recommendations to get it properly done?
 
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