GCPhotographers Build

[GCPhotographers]

2 years of thinking about it and now it is time. From NYC to NC and now in California, I have the space to make it happen but this will take maybe 3 years to accomplish on my budget. My goal is to have a motor that is capable of 650hp but daily a 450-500hp car. On completing my built, I don't plan on using any auxiliary fuel right away. The advantage on California is E85 (hopefully that doesn't change because 91 is crap here).

Picture below is how I am starting out. I had a crane but returned it the beginning of last year but I have my engine stand so once I take everything a part, I should have able to utilize the stand after the machine shop visit.

As of now, based on what I already have, I will be taking my time with this while learning everything.

Got a deal on this long block. They said it was just a leakdown issue. We will see...maybe not since it is coming apart. My hope is the core is good and I don't need to do too much work on fixing the core before maintenance

 

[GCPhotographers]

Tomorrow, I will take the block a part and upload the photos

 

[GCPhotographers]

So I started but had to stop because I can't get the dam crank pulley off. I am using a harbor freight wireless impact gun no luck. I read about using the hole on the block of the pulley and the breaker bar ripped right through it. I have some PB blaster soaking while the drill charge up. It was about 1/4. Talking to my Hypnotic Tuning family, they said get a better drill and/or pulley holder. I am going to look into this pulley holder and see if I need to buy it or I can rent it for almost nothing.
[doublepost=1484708410][/doublepost]I am going to upload many photos. My goal in doing this build (FIRST EVER) is to disassemble with the guidance of many and install but giving all the details in photos as much as possible. I used 12 point sockets for the dissemble and I will do the same at the end. Here's the start to the photos I took with my phone.

 

[GCPhotographers]

All this is Day One. I wanted to do more but I was stopped by the dam pulley. I have all the bolts out of the timing cover....just the dam pulley is stopping me. Again, there are many things that was not on my block when I got it like the injector harness, manifolds, injectors and so on but those are easy to remove. If need help removing them, there are many walkthroughs out there.

 

[GCPhotographers]

While removing, many bolts were missing or damaged. This is something I will need to put on my shopping list. I will share my list with you soon

 

[GCPhotographers]

The removal was done with a breaker bar and impact gun. To me, it is the best approach, if it is not, I would like one of the pros to correct me. Disassembly, I was told is suppose to be simple... dam crank pulley. As you can see, it is soaking in 3 rounds of PB blaster. I am going to try the impact one more time and if nothing, I will see about getting a pulley holder.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

If you continue to use the harbor freight gun, best of luck.

Good hand tools, not so great electrical.

Find an impact gun with a high torque capacity, because that crank pulley bolt has the force of hell and beyond holding it down, as per mazda assembly procedure.

 

[Gandalf]

Good luck getting that car on the road in the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia. No way it pass visual or emission tests.

 

[GCPhotographers]

If you continue to use the harbor freight gun, best of luck.

Good hand tools, not so great electrical.

Find an impact gun with a high torque capacity, because that crank pulley bolt has the force of hell and beyond holding it down, as per mazda assembly procedure.

You are right. I got my ass handed to me by the Hypnotic Tuning Family but luckily I just connected with a shop that will allow me to borrow tools in exchange for a little labor support.
[doublepost=1484835671][/doublepost]

Good luck getting that car on the road in the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia. No way it pass visual or emission tests.

I wouldn't even pass now. I am keeping my plates from NC and currently working on an inspection waiver.
[doublepost=1484836171][/doublepost]Back at attacking the crank pulley and no luck with the universal crank pulley holder so I am going to take the the bottom end to shop to using there 3/4 snap on impact gun. That shit is like to hand fulls. I will do that today or tomorrow.

Since the pulley is a pain, I removed the nut from the bottom of the timing covering (the last thing holding the cover on) that is located below the pulley and removed the oil filter adapter as well. As you can see, it's a Gen One adapter so when time comes, I will upgrade it.

 

[GCPhotographers]

Now attacking the head studs. It is important (everyone say it and I see why) to use a 12mmm 12pt impact capable socket with a LONG breaker bar. I used a impact deep well 12pt with an impact short extension. As you know, I am doing this disassembly along and the head studs are torqued down to about 300 ft lbs so I had to move block against the concrete wall of my garage since it is not on a stand to take the head studs out. one of the head studs was rounded. I was pissed but I managed to hammer down an extractor on top of it and get it off.

After this, I had to bend the timing cover a little (I will have to get a new one) just to get the top end of. I broke some plastic but it looks replaceable so I am good for now. Just a quick visual inspection of the cylinders I don't see any wrong. The person I purchased it from said it had a possible leakdown.
[doublepost=1484836926][/doublepost]So my goal today is to get that bottom end to the shop to get that crank pulley out so I can disassemble the bottom end. Hopefully, I will have time after work to do this.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Is that a harbor freight socket too?

What tools and torque wrenches are you planning on using when assembling the engine again?

 

[GCPhotographers]

Is that a harbor freight socket too?

What tools and torque wrenches are you planning on using when assembling the engine again?

For assembly, I have access to snap on and mac
[doublepost=1484892324][/doublepost]So today, I was able to get that the crank pulley bolt out in less than 2 seconds. That 3/4 snap on impact gun is a beast. If I knew better, I would have when with this first. Before leaving for the shop, I removed the oil pan. I should of removed the oil feed and balance shaft but I was excited to get that bolt out. With that, I was able to get the timing cover off and more.

 

[GCPhotographers]

When i got back to my garage, I continue the disassembling process. When I removed the oil feeder and balance along with all the accessories that was connected under the timing cover.

 

[GCPhotographers]

I had an engine stand for over a year. I assembled it because I was going to start this project in august but I had to prepare to move and the logistics of the move was important and more the focus on a step by step uninstallation process along with everything that will take place in between before I am ready to start building.

With all the extras off, I was able to lift the short block on to the stand. It was still over 200 lbs but it had to be done so I can organize better everything and have a much cleaner space. I don't want my garage full of engine parts all over the place unorganized.

After removing the main studs which I think was as tight more than the head studs, I was able to remove the cradle. Well I was going hard in the gym today so I can't really tell but it was rough using a long extension.

I called it night when I got to the piston and rods. I didn't have the right socket to remove the cap and I don't want to risk rounded the star pattern.
[doublepost=1484895123][/doublepost]Right now, I am looking at a multipurpose workbench from harbor freight so I can keep everything in order and organized for this build. Right now, I have everything on a fold our table or on the ground. I plan on having everything I will be working directly with on top of the table and everything else in a draw covered in plastic ( of course everything on the table as well when I am not using it).

 

[GCPhotographers]

So after work, I took some pictures to remind myself that I needed a hex set and of course I went to harbor freight to acquire this because I can get a set for $10 plus they had a sale going on plus I didn't know what the size would measure out to. I went on all data and nothing about the tool. I googled it and get some forum searching and nothing. The answer was a 14mm hex impact socket. after removing the caps and bearings, I was looking for reasons why this block was sold cheap (less than $1500). Removed the pistons one my one and I saw on one piston a ring missing and it wasn't in the cylinder .

 

[GCPhotographers]

I checked some more and removed all the pistons and nothing. The piston and rods were good. The bearings were good. The cylinder were clean. I flipped the block over and over and nothing. With, my eyes, I don't see any problem. I did notice before all this that the head gasket was not seated correctly. Oil in the wrong place etc but they could of been me being messy.

Shit, for my first time, I did well I think. Next time or when the time come to assemble, I will invest in a crane. I will have the right impact tools as well. With that, the disassembly would have been completed in one night.

 

[GCPhotographers]

So for maintenance, I am looking something like:

Shop Sleeved Block - Need to do more research

Darton MID Block Sleeve Kit 700-100 - $732.00

Machine Shop - cleaning fee - $85.00

Bore and hone block with torque plate - $150.00

Deck Engine Block - $145.00

Polish Crankshaft - $35.00

Valve Job, Deck Cylinder head - $225.00

Still doing research on what I really need in all but I believe this is everything for the beginning.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Stock sleeves are good for 650. Sleeves are usually pretty expensive to install, especially those MID sleeves because you need some pretty precise machines to cut out all of the water jackets properly. If you still feel you need sleeves you should get some dry sleeves from Darton or LA Sleeve. They're also a fair bit cheaper.

 

[GCPhotographers]

Stock sleeves are good for 650. Sleeves are usually pretty expensive to install, especially those MID sleeves because you need some pretty precise machines to cut out all of the water jackets properly. If you still feel you need sleeves you should get some dry sleeves from Darton or LA Sleeve. They're also a fair bit cheaper.

Darton MID Block Sleeve Kit 700-100 - $732.00 is what I saw that was good for our block. I might just say sleeving for 2 second block if I get that far. I need to focus on cleaning the block up, bore and honing while seeing which pistons and rods would be best.
[doublepost=1485135241][/doublepost]I am looking at CP Pistons with Manley H-Bean Rods, set up with Clevite H-Series Rod Bearings and Clevite AL-Series Main Bearings. I didn't select a size yet. I wanted to wait until after the machine shop so I know exactly I can get.

 

[AYOUSTIN]

Go with H series for all bearings. The AL is a lighter duty bearing.