GEN1 MAZDASPEED 3 NO BOOST

Enki said:
Is that the right port to use for the BPV?

Edit: You sure you aren't just dumping boost back to the intake? Have you checked your BPV at all?
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How do I check a BPV? It is a HKS (not sure if it’s real)

@Enki it was working well, but if it holds pressure it should be good right? If I remove the tube going back into the intake, and boost leak test with the BPV open it doesn’t let air out. Does that mean it’s good? If there’s another way I’d be happy to learn.


I was running it the same way previously and was making boost before this whole issue started
 
Okay, so I’ve exhausted options at this point.

I’m guessing my problem is worse than a simple leak. My car holds 20PSI no issue now. Still no boost.

it sounds like air is coming straight out of my exhaust. So maybe my IWG?

Can I somehow stop it from opening momentarily to check if that’s the issue? I mean it happened with my previous turbo, so obviously the turbo is the culprit.
 
Anthony Amador said:
Okay, so I’ve exhausted options at this point.

I’m guessing my problem is worse than a simple leak. My car holds 20PSI no issue now. Still no boost.

it sounds like air is coming straight out of my exhaust. So maybe my IWG?

Can I somehow stop it from opening momentarily to check if that’s the issue? I mean it happened with my previous turbo, so obviously the turbo is the culprit.
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You can stop it momentarily by plugging the hose that goes from your boost control solenoid to the waste gate. It won't allow the positive pressure to open the gate. Be careful doing this as you are free boosting the engine essentially with no control.

If you see a massive increase in pressure then you know the waste gate was working and there is some other issue. If it still doesn't build boost then it's gotta be something else.
 
I tried that, still no boost FML.

Okay, so I thought finding this issue was simple. Exhaust gasses spin turbo, turbo pushes air through pipe into engine and boom boost.

so somewhere in this there is a problem.
If it’s not on the intake side then where?
Can injector seals cause this?
 
Do you have any DTC's? Have you tried removing the MAP sensor and lightly applying shop air into the sensor while monitoring the data to see if it reads positive pressure?
 
L337TurboZ said:
Do you have any DTC's? Have you tried removing the MAP sensor and lightly applying shop air into the sensor while monitoring the data to see if it reads positive pressure?
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I have not tried that, if the MAP sensor is bad will it cause me not to boost?

I posted a log above, if you look at it, my engine is dumping fuel, and not getting any air.

My car is SLOW(er). It feels like i have less than 100hp. My 0-60 would be like 20 seconds.

I have 4 DTCs.
2188 - Fuel Rich at idle
XXXX - Evap system (EGR DELETE.)
XXXX - VTCS butterflies (vtcs delete)
XXXX - VTCS sensor circuit low voltage (VTCS DELETE)

I'll get the exact codes when i go to the car, but i know for a fact that they're for those issue, as i just read them yesterday.
 
Anthony Amador said:
I have not tried that, if the MAP sensor is bad will it cause me not to boost?

I posted a log above, if you look at it, my engine is dumping fuel, and not getting any air.

My car is SLOW(er). It feels like i have less than 100hp. My 0-60 would be like 20 seconds.

I have 4 DTCs.
2188 - Fuel Rich at idle
XXXX - Evap system (EGR DELETE.)
XXXX - VTCS butterflies (vtcs delete)
XXXX - VTCS sensor circuit low voltage (VTCS DELETE)

I'll get the exact codes when i go to the car, but i know for a fact that they're for those issue, as i just read them yesterday.
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When you deleted VTCS did you plug the hole on top of the manifold?
 
I am thinking of just removing everything from my exhaust manifold to my intake manifold, and checking the whole thing top to bottom. This has been going on too long. I've taken it to multiple shops with no luck.


EDIT* I don't know if i mentioned this, but when i accelerate all i hear is a noise that sounds like compressed air being pushed through a small hole. It's not a high pitched noise, its more of a "PSHHHHHHH" until i let off the gas then it doesn't make it anymore. Sounds like its coming from around the turbo housing.

Anyone have any shops they would recommend in South Florida before i attempt this myself?

Something i do want to check is if my turbo is spinning properly, can i turn on my car without my TIP just to see if the blades are spinning?
 
Anthony Amador said:
I am thinking of just removing everything from my exhaust manifold to my intake manifold, and checking the whole thing top to bottom. This has been going on too long. I've taken it to multiple shops with no luck.


EDIT* I don't know if i mentioned this, but when i accelerate all i hear is a noise that sounds like compressed air being pushed through a small hole. It's not a high pitched noise, its more of a "PSHHHHHHH" until i let off the gas then it doesn't make it anymore. Sounds like its coming from around the turbo housing.

Anyone have any shops they would recommend in South Florida before i attempt this myself?

Something i do want to check is if my turbo is spinning properly, can i turn on my car without my TIP just to see if the blades are spinning?
Click to expand...
Can you block off the blow off valve "remove completely , plug the line and put a plate there"? At this point I would try anything. If you can spin the turbo by hand smoothly I would 95% say it is good enough to build 1 or 2 psi. Can you send a cold and hot idle log?
 
Anthony Amador said:
I am thinking of just removing everything from my exhaust manifold to my intake manifold, and checking the whole thing top to bottom. This has been going on too long. I've taken it to multiple shops with no luck.


EDIT* I don't know if i mentioned this, but when i accelerate all i hear is a noise that sounds like compressed air being pushed through a small hole. It's not a high pitched noise, its more of a "PSHHHHHHH" until i let off the gas then it doesn't make it anymore. Sounds like its coming from around the turbo housing.

Anyone have any shops they would recommend in South Florida before i attempt this myself?

Something i do want to check is if my turbo is spinning properly, can i turn on my car without my TIP just to see if the blades are spinning?
Click to expand...
If you have a hard intake you will hear the turbo way more when it is sucking in air , that is pretty normal. The oem design is crazy quiet.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
Can you block off the blow off valve "remove completely , plug the line and put a plate there"? At this point I would try anything. If you can spin the turbo by hand smoothly I would 95% say it is good enough to build 1 or 2 psi. Can you send a cold and hot idle log?
Click to expand...


I can try that. So i block off where the BOV is, or can i just put a plug on the part that goes back into the air intake side?

Yes, i will send over the logs today after work!
 
Anthony Amador said:
I can try that. So i block off where the BOV is, or can i just put a plug on the part that goes back into the air intake side?

Yes, i will send over the logs today after work!
Click to expand...

I would make a ghetto AL or Steel plate with make a gasket, or go back to OEM. And yes you would want to plug the vac line and the line going back into the intake.
 
L337TurboZ said:
Does your car have an aftermarket downpipe with or without catalytic converter or are you running stock catalytic converter and exhaust?

If the catalytic converter is plugged you won't be able to build boost.
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It has a aftermarket DP with a cat. It's a COBB DP.

Now that you mention it, when i purchased my car it was running rich for boost leaks. My original turbo had the same symptoms i had now. How do i check if its clogged? Also, the O2 sensors were so dirty and caked when i removed and replaced them.

Can i unbolt the DP and see if it builds boost?
 
I called a shop, and they suggested i remove an o2 sensor before the cat and drive it, if power is restored the cat is clogged.

Seeing as this is my first turbo car, does it matter if i start it without the wide band just to see if it actually is able to boost?
 
I think they want you to remove the sensor because it would leave a hole in the exhaust...Just keep in mind the gasses coming out of that are going to go far and be very hot (fire hazard).
 
Enki said:
I think they want you to remove the sensor because it would leave a hole in the exhaust...Just keep in mind the gasses coming out of that are going to go far and be very hot (fire hazard).
Click to expand...

I only drove about 250 feet. Parked it, now I’m gonna reinstall the sensor and drive to an exhaust shop.

Do I have to replace the whole down pipe? Or is there cleaner?
 
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