GEN1 MAZDASPEED 3 NO BOOST

[Enki]

Pull this nut, remove that heat shield tab from the stud and gently press it back towards the cabin (away from the motor; resting the shield on the stud itself will suffice). This will give you just enough room to remove the downpipe without having to fight too much.

The last time I employed this trick, three people had fought for over an hour to get it out (I was working on other stuff), and when I pulled this nut and moved the shield the downpipe fell off and on the ground. Figuring it out myself took over 3 hours the first time. Aftermarket downpipes tend to be quite a bit easier.

 

[Anthony Amador]

Okay so update,

I took the car to a shop here that I’ve been to, and the guy swears my car isn’t clogged.
He did a vacuum test, he checked the difference in heat, and says that the cat is most definitely not clogged.

What he said to me after driving the car is he feels it’s an issue with my vacuum system in my car. He believes it could be a loose or broken vacuum line. I thought if I capped off myI WG I would build boost even with a vacuum leak?

Anyways I am back to diagnosing. I need to get the compression checked on my motor in case my rings are bad? (I read boost can get by the rings??)

Another thing is, my valves are extremely dirty, and my exhaust system is dirty as charcoal. I scheduled a walnut media blast and I’m going to run a fuel system cleaner. I think I’m going to also pull injectors and get them flow tested and cleaned. A lot of build up on most of the intake/exhaust side looks abnormally dirty. This could be caused by the way the cars running I’m guessing too?

 

[L337TurboZ]

You said you pulled the O2 out and was able to make boost. That indicates a clogged cat or exhaust restriction. The car can still run ok at idle with a clogged cat unless it is fully blocked so a partial blockage would allow the car to run ok at low rpm and bog at higher rpm.

Have you used a mechanical vacuum gauge on the car at idle? What is your vacuum reading in the ECU?

 

[Anthony Amador]

So I tried to replicate the results I got when I removed the o2 sensor. No luck. I guess it was a coincidence.

I receive my vacuum tester today in the mail, I’ll check that too.

An observation I made: when I press my accelerator, it says my position is 100% but my throttle plate doesn’t move at all. Sometimes it’ll open up 10%, but never open up all the way.
Also, i replaced the throttle body because someone suggest i do. Nothing has changed since then.

Can i remove one of the pipes from my intercooler to see if my turbo will spool? I think this would help me figure out if the issue is before/after my throttle body.

If anyone wants to recommend a mechanic in south florida please let me know. I have taken it to 3 shops as of yesterday. No luck with any, seems no one wants to actually take their time and fix my car even though im willing to compensate them.

I have tried basically everything. Here is a list of parts i have checked/replaced since this issue started:

Original issue: Turbo started making less and less boost until one day it wouldn't boost at all, i replaced the K04 cause it had some shaft play, and oil on the intake side. Installed a cheap ebay turbo until my CST4 arrived (Its my daily.) that turbo didn't spool either. CST4 arrived, same issue, no boost.

I cleaned my MAP
Replaced Intake Manifold/Throttle body gasket
Replaced BPV gasket (Cometic make a gasket sheet)
I replaced all the gaskets on my turbo when i replaced it
I installed a check valve on my IM PCV hose (1 way in toward IM)

Parts i replaced before the issue started:
Purge Valve solenoid
CS Injector seals
O2 Sensor
MAF

The issue persists, no CEL for anything other than running rich at idle, VTCS/EGR delete. My wiring has seen better days, and now i'm thinking it might not even be a mechanical issue.

 

[Anthony Amador]

I just started checking every inch of this engine, and have come up with some items that might need my attention.

1. I see oil dripping from my injectors
2. There a hose that leads into the brake booster that looks cracked and someone taped over it.
3. There a hose that leads into my intake manifold with a red "Push" type clip that also looks damaged.
4. My purge valve solenoid rubber mount is broken off.

I am checking everything on Wednesday and tearing apart most of my car just to double check everything under and around my intake manifold/injectors. While i'm there i will be getting my injectors cleaned and flow tested.

Can someone link me to that hose that goes into the intake manifold? I can't seem to find it. I am doing a warranty exchange on my injector seals, and purge valve solenoid. (Warranty FTW.)

I WILL GET THIS CAR IN TOP SHAPE! Also, how do i use a compression tester? i looked at a Youtube video, but the gauge gets a reading then just goes back to 0. How can i make it hold so i can actually measure the compression?

I'm tired of hearing from my pops to get rid of the Mazda. The previous owner literally treated this car like dirt, i have found so much tape, zip ties, and ghetto rigged things on this car its crazy. Little by little i will get this as close to perfect as i can.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Not to be an jerk but if this is too much or you can't figure it out I'd be happy to buy it from you. All of us here on the forum are trying to help as much as possible.

Which O2 sensor did you remove? It has to be the one right after the turbo. Also you cannot remove an IC pipe to see if it's boosting. You'll just make a giant leak and get no where.

For the compression test you need the proper compression tester hose. It has a small fitting inside of it like the valve stem core on a wheels valve stem. That allows it to pump up inside the gauge otherwise with each revolution the pressure drops when the valves opens.

Do a dry test first. If any come back low then add a small amount of oil into the cylinder and repeat the test. If the psi comes up then your rings or Pistons are worn/cracked.

However low compression usually leads to a misfire. If it runs fine at idle but won't build boost there is something else going on. If your fuel trims are within +/- 10 then you're fine. A vacuum leak will lead to fuel trims being over +10 or more and leaking injectors or improperly burning fuel will lead to fuel trims over -10.

 

[Anthony Amador]

Not to be an jerk but if this is too much or you can't figure it out I'd be happy to buy it from you. All of us here on the forum are trying to help as much as possible.

Which O2 sensor did you remove? It has to be the one right after the turbo. Also you cannot remove an IC pipe to see if it's boosting. You'll just make a giant leak and get no where.

For the compression test you need the proper compression tester hose. It has a small fitting inside of it like the valve stem core on a wheels valve stem. That allows it to pump up inside the gauge otherwise with each revolution the pressure drops when the valves opens.

Do a dry test first. If any come back low then add a small amount of oil into the cylinder and repeat the test. If the psi comes up then your rings or Pistons are worn/cracked.

However low compression usually leads to a misfire. If it runs fine at idle but won't build boost there is something else going on. If your fuel trims are within +/- 10 then you're fine. A vacuum leak will lead to fuel trims being over +10 or more and leaking injectors or improperly burning fuel will lead to fuel trims over -10.

Sorry if i came off wrong! I appreciate all you guys help so much you have no idea!!!!

My fuel trims are -20.88 all the time. From the second the car turns on, no matter the throttle position. (Except WOT its at 0.16)
My car smells like a gas station LOL.

I will send you a picture of the compression tester its a loaner from autozone.

Do you know the part # for the vacuum hose that goes onto the IM?

I am frustrated so i am talking out of my ass! I will never sell this car, i've had it for a while and love the feeling of it when it runs correctly.

Now this might be a dumb question.... can fuel leaks cause boost leaks? IDK just a thought. When i remove my intake manifold ill send attach some pictures of the various hoses, and leaks i see coming from my injectors.

Something note worthy, 2/4 intake valves are dry as heck! 2 look moist/wet? Maybe that's normal idk

 

[L337TurboZ]

When was the last time you changed your oil? If the HPFP is leaking fuel into the engine or your injectors are leaking then your oil is super diluted and can cause a rich condition. Fuel leaks do not cause boost leaks. A boost leak is a leak between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. Dont get frustrated just take a step back, and try things in simple logical steps.

Your MAF sensor reads the air coming into the engine, your MAP sensor reads the pressure inside the manifold. Pins on the MAF sensor are notorious for going bad and Im sure someone has already mentioned checking that. The MAF sensor is more crucial for the fuel trim reading than the MAP sensor is. Change your oil, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, then reconnect the battery and follow these steps.

Do not start the car, just get your AP or scan tool booted up
Take note of the MAP sensor reading and the MAF sensor, specifically MAF voltage
While having the parameteres up for MAP reading, MAF voltage and MAF grams/sec keep the scanner in view and wiggle the connector at the MAF sensor and lightly tugging on the wires right behind the connector. See if that reading changes. If it does then isolate which wire it is.
Next start the car and repeat wiggling the wires. You want to see if it suddenly goes stupid. If you know anyone with a good running speed 3 or 6 try swapping their maf sensor in and see if the readings change

Also your Oxygen sensor is important for fuel trims. if that sensor is bad and stuck rich or lean (the primary O2 not the one after the cat) then the car wont know what to do and will constantly dump fuel.

Check your plugs while you're there and if they are fouled because of fuel or oil throw in a new set. Dont make any other changes to anything at this time or throw any other parts at it. Just simply change your oil and spark plugs (if needed) then report back with what it does

 

[Anthony Amador]

When was the last time you changed your oil? If the HPFP is leaking fuel into the engine or your injectors are leaking then your oil is super diluted and can cause a rich condition. Fuel leaks do not cause boost leaks. A boost leak is a leak between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. Dont get frustrated just take a step back, and try things in simple logical steps.

Your MAF sensor reads the air coming into the engine, your MAP sensor reads the pressure inside the manifold. Pins on the MAF sensor are notorious for going bad and Im sure someone has already mentioned checking that. The MAF sensor is more crucial for the fuel trim reading than the MAP sensor is. Change your oil, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, then reconnect the battery and follow these steps.

Do not start the car, just get your AP or scan tool booted up
Take note of the MAP sensor reading and the MAF sensor, specifically MAF voltage
While having the parameteres up for MAP reading, MAF voltage and MAF grams/sec keep the scanner in view and wiggle the connector at the MAF sensor and lightly tugging on the wires right behind the connector. See if that reading changes. If it does then isolate which wire it is.
Next start the car and repeat wiggling the wires. You want to see if it suddenly goes stupid. If you know anyone with a good running speed 3 or 6 try swapping their maf sensor in and see if the readings change

Also your Oxygen sensor is important for fuel trims. if that sensor is bad and stuck rich or lean (the primary O2 not the one after the cat) then the car wont know what to do and will constantly dump fuel.

Check your plugs while you're there and if they are fouled because of fuel or oil throw in a new set. Dont make any other changes to anything at this time or throw any other parts at it. Just simply change your oil and spark plugs (if needed) then report back with what it does

Okay, So i went ahead and while i was at the gas station just touch the maf sensor and my car shut off....I will check my oil and plugs once i get home, but i replaced my oil less than 1000 miles ago.

I will update once i get home and check it out!

 

[Easter Bunny]

Well you have a lead. Don't spend the time doing anything other than pursuing the maf wiring

 

[Anthony Amador]

I just saw that it looks like someone tried repairing or extending the MAF already? I actually have a brand new MAF plug and wiring kit that came with my new MAF when i purchased it! I never thought i'd need it, but TG i have it now!!!

How far back would i have to cut and splice for this issue to go away? I can get pretty far back into the loom, but just want to make sure.

 

[L337TurboZ]

If someone tried repairing it before the cut right behind where their work began. do not use crimp connectors. This is a circuit that requires soldering. Crimp connectors can lead to resistance issues and any resistance in the circuit will throw off the MAF reading. Before doing the wire repair itself remove the plastic wire shield that holds all the wires together and post a pic of how the repair was done previously.

Either way with fuel trims rich like that it is a good idea to change your oil once you fix the MAF wiring issue.

 

[Anthony Amador]

Update: I removed the tape that was there and it was a nightmare… twist ties????????
I cut it, and soldered a new connector on. I used water proof electricians tape, and then wrapped all the way up to the connector.
I will say, my car feels 10x better, the vibrations got better and my idle is better too. I definitely got back a lot of power that I was missing, but it’s all motor, no boost.

I managed to make 10PSI actually for the first time in awhile. The car has more pep, and doesn’t feel like it’s going to die at every light. I reset the ECU too.

My fuel trims are still negative, and I am not consistent with boost. I will say this, my car is not tuned for my turbo, or my EBCS. I have the EBCS ran the OEM style. So I expected to at least boost consistently.

I wasn’t able to check my plugs yet, I will tomorrow. I’m sure they’re horrible, since the rest of my intake/exhaust is dirty. Still getting that hissing sound, I’ll try to record it so you guys can hear it.

but, it’s the small things, my idle is wayyy better so I’m happy now.

after I check plugs I might take a crack at my fuel system and check for leaks. I will also need new vacuum hoses for my EBCS as they’re pretty bad.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Are you on a base map for the turbo or on a stock tune

 

[Anthony Amador]

I am on a OTS Cobb tune.
Stage 3 93 octane.

ive been able to build boost while driving now, but nothing over 2-4psi, and like I said it’s not every time. Sometimes I get on it and it builds no boost, another time it will.

what are the normal readings for a MAF? I’m getting max 60 g/s.

I saw on another post that people are getting up to 117 g/s?

anyways, I’ll keep on diagnosing and reporting back here!

 

[L337TurboZ]

Did you change your oil? Are the fuel trims still super negative?

 

[Anthony Amador]

I changed my oil. The fuel trims actually are pretty good now. It hovers around -4.9 to about 3.5 sometimes it will shoot to -18.88 but it goes right back to hovering around the 0.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

This is what a stock maf tune looks like, you can see g/s rise as mafv rise, it should always be that way. You should definitely be seeing more g/s at WOT but it also depends on intake size. If you had a 4" intake you are going to see way lower volts as it is getting more air flow past the maf at a time with a 4" section. So 2.5v on 4" intake might be 122 g/s where as 2.5v on OEM intake might be 33. This is why we have to tune the maf when we change intake size from OEM so it knows how much air it is getting at what voltage.

OEM Intake


4" Intake

 

[Anthony Amador]

This is what a stock maf tune looks like, you can see g/s rise as mafv rise, it should always be that way. You should definitely be seeing more g/s at WOT but it also depends on intake size. If you had a 4" intake you are going to see way lower volts as it is getting more air flow past the maf at a time with a 4" section. So 2.5v on 4" intake might be 122 g/s where as 2.5v on OEM intake might be 33. This is why we have to tune the maf when we change intake size from OEM so it knows how much air it is getting at what voltage.

OEM Intake
View attachment 19920

4" Intake
View attachment 19921

okay I’m not running a 4in intake and my numbers are pretty similar to the ones for an oem intake. I’m running the COBB silicone intake and TIP. It fit on the K04 on the TIP side and the intake I think is 3in.

I’m picking up my plugs now, and getting some vacuum hose to replace some worn out ones.

I’ll see where I go from there, and keep you guys updated.

I’m going to run a log and send it again, maybe now it’ll be more clear what’s going on

 

[L337TurboZ]

All aftermarket air intakes require calibration. The MAF needs to be calibrated. If your tuner had calibrated it before when your car was running bad the values probably aren't right which is their fault. Contact them about what intake you have and if the calibration should be redone