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Actually my car is needing new suspension anyways and im starting to think it probably is my motor. My tests just haven’t showed what it is completely. Jason said he feels its my rings and so I am continuing with my original goal which is to fix the suspension with my limited funds this year and then next year after tax time build/rebuild my motor.Not fixing one (your main) problem before changing something else eh?
My compression test is technically out of spec because it was low 150’s. I was planning to rebuild with new oil pump and all. Fresh higher hp rated rods and pistons and all that jazz. I think honestly it could just be my timing chain or something. I have only noticed a few things... My car smells like it’s running super rich but logs don’t show that. My car hesitates at lower rpms 2-3.5k under part throttle but not wot. Lastly, it backfires, pops, and crackles more than I would expect even for being catless. During on-off throttle it pops as I start to give it gas and as rpms drop coming to a stop when they get pretty low. I feel that the logs aren’t showing anything because they wouldn’t necessarily show if the motor was just wearing down but doing it evenly right? And I would expect it to for sure beat either of those man...lol Idk how fast a G6 gt is but my brother-in-law and I raced a while back and we took off from like 5-10mph and once I grabbed 3rd he started falling back pretty far. 1st and 2nd he basically kept up though but I think it’s just because his is automatic and a 6 speed has short gears at first.Ok so no rolling resistance.
No loss of compression.
No major leak in leakdown.
Turbo is flowing according to the maf.
No clogged cats.
No crazy noise
What timing are you running?
Have you raced a soccer mom yet to verify that you are slow? I would start with a civic thoes mini vans are getting faster every year.
I dont think a motor build will solve the issue especially if it is caused by something you remove from the old motor and put on the new one. Dont get me wrong im all about hard rods and big blowjobs from big fat turbos.
Why is the car slow? What do you honestly think the reason is why the car is slow?
And Jason said that he was surprised but that it was running 14-15* up top on my wot pulls in the Cobb OTS Map. I don’t know how high they normally can go with the speed 6 but he seemed impressed. I recently changed to the Stage 3 91 octane instead of 93 even though I use 93 gas and it actually feels much better oddly enough. Also my car is still actually burning oil btw @jsmith. I feel I have ruled out mostly everything BUT the actual motor. I feel maybe my tests haven’t been right somehow or something. I may pay a shop in town to check it out. The guy is supposedly a guru at diagnosing issues but it will cost me over $100 just to have him check it out.Ok so no rolling resistance.
No loss of compression.
No major leak in leakdown.
Turbo is flowing according to the maf.
No clogged cats.
No crazy noise
What timing are you running?
Have you raced a soccer mom yet to verify that you are slow? I would start with a civic thoes mini vans are getting faster every year.
I dont think a motor build will solve the issue especially if it is caused by something you remove from the old motor and put on the new one. Dont get me wrong im all about hard rods and big blowjobs from big fat turbos.
Why is the car slow? What do you honestly think the reason is why the car is slow?
Niiccee.... I’m sure if money allowed me to I would’ve already built mine completely but that’s definitely not the case obviously... hah I’ll have to check that out (about the timing) and get back with you but im pretty sure I do need another bov/bpv since mine is off some stuff a friend gave me and its a cheap piece of ebay junk... I just haven’t gotten another one because I don’t know how to get something like the knockoff GFB bov that is half decent, but has a stock flange, and make it fit my ic piping I already have.Hmm well as far as the popping hesitation and rpms dropping/ dipping after say revving the car and letting it settle that is a rich condition. When my bpv was leaking i had a bad hesitation when hitting the gas during a gear change as well as the annoying rev drop when i put it in neutral approaching a light.
If it is a leak it may get fixed just by takeing the car apart(for the motor swap) and reassembling it carefully (as well as any other loose shit). Funny enuf the oppisite happened to me when i put my motor in there were more leaks then when i started but i went from intake/tp to full retard in one shot instead of just a motor swap. Also it may have been the inappropriate amout of beer i drank during the process....
I have read about crank sensors not being lined up properly thus allowing for seemingly high ing advance with out the benifits. I.E. the crank sensor is retarted 5 degreese from TDC means you actually sit 5 degreese less then what the ap/tune is saying you are at. So 10 degreese of advance is really 5 and so on. Put the motor at tdc and see if the sensor is aligned?
Screw paying 100$ for someone else to tell you the car is fine or some crazy diag like the radio is stealing hp for the subs or the floor mats are to heavy ect.....
100% stock car/map you should be at 220/240 in vd let alone bolted n tuned.
EFB yoooooI just haven’t gotten another one because I don’t know how to get something like the knockoff GFB bov that is half decent, but has a stock flange, and make it fit my ic piping I already have.
There actually is a “Mazdaspeed” dealership about an hour and a half north from me in Indianapolis, IN so maybe I could call them up and see if a technician couldn’t guess what else could be causing it. I would think my motor wouldn’t feel so solid if it was internally going bad though wouldn’t you say? Can bad rings be sort of unnoticed other than power loss and a bit of smoke when I drive hard or rev match on my downshift and come to a stop as it passes my window!? HahaDon't bother paying another dude to diagnose your car. TBH the Speed platform is so weird about normal issues, I would try and find a Mazda dealer that has a tech that may 'specialize' in Speeds. I am lucky and have one less than an hour from me if the need arises. I have never heard anything good from people taking their Speeds to an independent repair shop, never ends well, especially if it is modded.
You know of any $100ish ones with greddy flanges worth buying?modify the ic pipe or get a bov with greddy flange.
If I was in your shoes, I would take it to the dealer. Pay the $100 or so for diag, and see what they think. I would feel more comfortable taking it there than an independent shop if it were my car.There actually is a “Mazdaspeed” dealership about an hour and a half north from me in Indianapolis, IN so maybe I could call them up and see if a technician couldn’t guess what else could be causing it. I would think my motor wouldn’t feel so solid if it was internally going bad though wouldn’t you say? Can bad rings be sort of unnoticed other than power loss and a bit of smoke when I drive hard or rev match on my downshift and come to a stop as it passes my window!? Haha
[doublepost=1532370292][/doublepost]
You know of any $100ish ones with greddy flanges worth buying?
Another thing that seems strange to me is why would the ots cobb map feel so much better than my e-tune (given that I only got a flash tune from Jason)?
Yeah sure bro ill post it up later today and ik my Cobb map flows less air but has alot higher timing. That’s what Jason said anyways, but which is better you think? Less boost more timing or more boost less timing?5 degrees of timing and a full AFR point leaner.
At 5800 rpm you read 290 g/s. with the dizzy map.
On the cobb map you read 230 at the same rpm.
Thats almost a 70 G/s difference for the same maf voltage.
Can you take a maf cal log and include STFT?
And I have a greddy knockoff already kind of but it is an older one and I think I just need to buy another new one and see how it does instead. It seemed to be hard to not get flutter but hold enough boost but maybe a newer one won’t have that problem.Sorry, hombre; there are some Greddy knockoff valves on ebay but I have no idea what their quality is.
I might call them up to see about setting an appointment and see if they will only charge $100 or so, and if so I may try to take it up there. I just know the last Mazda dealership I went to the the guy just bashed on my car and said I needed a new one (granted it was just a mazda protege at the time). It gave me a bad taste about going to the dealership I guess...haha Needless to say he definitely didn’t sell a car to me by making me feel like crap for not having a real nice car!If I was in your shoes, I would take it to the dealer. Pay the $100 or so for diag, and see what they think. I would feel more comfortable taking it there than an independent shop if it were my car.
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Yeah sure bro ill post it up later today and ik my Cobb map flows less air but has alot higher timing. That’s what Jason said anyways, but which is better you think? Less boost more timing or more boost less timing?
[doublepost=1532396090][/doublepost]So here is the MAF log with STFT @5doorsoffury. Keep in mind these are from the Cobb Stage 3 91 map that I am running since it seems better for now. I will load the last one up he and I did as well.
Yeeah it’s just a flash tune so I definitely don’t blame it on Jason. He did a great job working with me and helped me with everything I had a question with. My car is still burning a good bit of oil but if I don’t boost much when I drive around and just moderate boost then it doesn’t burn oil really.Im not big into tuning and by NO means any good at it so im not going to step on a tuners toes but fom what i see as a observation from the logs are the dizzy map runs richer and with less timing. This is just a flash tune correct? It dosent flow more the maf cal is just diffrent. There is a big differance in g/s but for the same maf v. The car injects fuel for the extra air that isnt really there and you have negitive trims once the car sees all the extra fuel in the exhaust stream. He is probably targeting richer afrs. That one maf cal log needs more learning time. You are + on the ltft but - across the board in stft.
You can buy a adapter from greddy to mazda flange and so on for bpv. I dont have a mazda flange on my intercooler pipeing i used a adapter flipped upsidown.
My take on this car is you need to get a quality BPV on the car. Do another boost leak test and then get a full etune. I think a lot of overlooked half assing is the culprit here.
If the car has good cylinder comp/leakdown and you are not burning up oil then i would leave the motor be and get a quality tune with meth/e85 for power/protection.
Daggg; I actually wondered yesterday if it would be possible to just chain a standard mazda-to-greddy adapter to the ic piping and convert it back to take a mazda flanged valve, but I didn't think it'd actually work....wasn't sure the upside-down adapter would properly mate up to the ic flange. That's kinda neat to know.You can buy a adapter from greddy to mazda flange and so on for bpv. I dont have a mazda flange on my intercooler pipeing i used a adapter flipped upsidown.