Year/Make/Model: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3
Mileage: 186,000
Location: Clearwater, FL
Concern: Engine turns over but won't start
DTC's: None
Modifications: Replaced rear motor mount with CPE
ECU/Tuning Software: N/A
Tuner: N/A
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes
Recent Repairs: None
Original owner of a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 with 186,000 miles. Other than one motor mount I replaced because the engine was disturbingly bouncy in the engine bay with the OEM one, it is stock (still even on the original clutch). It has sat undriven for ~4 years (tires bald, haven't been in a position to have the extra money for them, been driving my dad's old Jeep since he passed in 2019). Last time it was driven, it started and ran properly. It has been garaged.
I tried to start it last week, and found the battery was entirely dead, and had leaked. I replaced it, and now the engine will turn over. I have been Googling the problem (noob-intermediate car understanding). There is a quarter tank of gas in it which is undoubtedly bad. I added 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane, no change. I thought about topping it off, but I am suspicious of the fuel pump because it does not seem to be turning on at all. I can't hear it kick on when I turn the ignition, even with the back seat and the metal panel over the pump removed. I have a bluetooth ODB2 reader and Torque Pro, but no codes are showing up. It measures the fuel rail pressure extremely low (like, 4-5psi) in KOEO.
I don't currently have an assistant, so I've had to be "clever" using my phone to record videos. I could not hear the pump kick on from a recording made underneath the tank during startup. I pulled the intercooler and a plug and verified that I do have spark (another fun video). I used a multimeter to check the resistance of the larger 20A and 30A fuses, which registered 0 ohms. I made sure to check the F/PUMP fuses. I checked the smaller fuses visually, including the one behind the glovebox (heyooo #69). I also purchased a replacement Duralast 20180 relay and tried it in the F/PUMP position (I also tried it in the other two positions it was compatible with). No luck. I tried jumping the fuel pump with a wire between the terminals of the F/PUMP relay and the ignition on, but that didn't work either.
I could top out the gas tank, but I don't see how that would help if the pump is dead. If the pump is totally dead, I don't know how I'd siphon the gas out (I read that you can't just put a tube down the filler?), and with the time and expense on top of tires on a 186k mile car, I don't know if it would be worth it (especially dropping the tank). It is entirely possible I overlooked or mismeasured one of the fuses or relays, or just missed something in general. It seems weird to me that the pump would just go bad sitting there doing nothing.
Thanks for any help you might offer. I do love the car, but maybe it's time to let it go. I didn't post on the introduction forum because nobody wants to see a picture of it looking like a barnyard find
Mileage: 186,000
Location: Clearwater, FL
Concern: Engine turns over but won't start
DTC's: None
Modifications: Replaced rear motor mount with CPE
ECU/Tuning Software: N/A
Tuner: N/A
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes
Recent Repairs: None
Original owner of a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 with 186,000 miles. Other than one motor mount I replaced because the engine was disturbingly bouncy in the engine bay with the OEM one, it is stock (still even on the original clutch). It has sat undriven for ~4 years (tires bald, haven't been in a position to have the extra money for them, been driving my dad's old Jeep since he passed in 2019). Last time it was driven, it started and ran properly. It has been garaged.
I tried to start it last week, and found the battery was entirely dead, and had leaked. I replaced it, and now the engine will turn over. I have been Googling the problem (noob-intermediate car understanding). There is a quarter tank of gas in it which is undoubtedly bad. I added 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane, no change. I thought about topping it off, but I am suspicious of the fuel pump because it does not seem to be turning on at all. I can't hear it kick on when I turn the ignition, even with the back seat and the metal panel over the pump removed. I have a bluetooth ODB2 reader and Torque Pro, but no codes are showing up. It measures the fuel rail pressure extremely low (like, 4-5psi) in KOEO.
I don't currently have an assistant, so I've had to be "clever" using my phone to record videos. I could not hear the pump kick on from a recording made underneath the tank during startup. I pulled the intercooler and a plug and verified that I do have spark (another fun video). I used a multimeter to check the resistance of the larger 20A and 30A fuses, which registered 0 ohms. I made sure to check the F/PUMP fuses. I checked the smaller fuses visually, including the one behind the glovebox (heyooo #69). I also purchased a replacement Duralast 20180 relay and tried it in the F/PUMP position (I also tried it in the other two positions it was compatible with). No luck. I tried jumping the fuel pump with a wire between the terminals of the F/PUMP relay and the ignition on, but that didn't work either.
I could top out the gas tank, but I don't see how that would help if the pump is dead. If the pump is totally dead, I don't know how I'd siphon the gas out (I read that you can't just put a tube down the filler?), and with the time and expense on top of tires on a 186k mile car, I don't know if it would be worth it (especially dropping the tank). It is entirely possible I overlooked or mismeasured one of the fuses or relays, or just missed something in general. It seems weird to me that the pump would just go bad sitting there doing nothing.
Thanks for any help you might offer. I do love the car, but maybe it's time to let it go. I didn't post on the introduction forum because nobody wants to see a picture of it looking like a barnyard find
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