Low oil pressure...

[Awafrican]

Hi, I know the thread is old but I am hoping that someone will still respond.

How were you able to run the sandwich adaptor plate because the MS3 uses a cartridge style filter and I am not too sure whether these can work with the sandwich adaptor plate as the screw on oil filters work. I am also experiencing low pressure when the heats up and is left to idle, the oil level indicator even comes on. But while the coolant temp is below about 90 degrees celsius there is no oil low oil pressure warning. I have to keep the car idling at 1000rpm for the warning to go away so I think maintaining lower oil temps will help me.

Thanks

90c is toasty sure but in these cars rad fans don't even kick on until 98c.
Also the 2010+ models come with spin on filters you can buy the filter housing and put it on the earlier models. To be able to run a spin on filter and sandwich plate.
https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem...azdaspeed-3-2007-2009-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

As others have said I do not believe it to be a temp issue at the temp you're seeing as that temp is fine for the speed. You're probably getting lower on the oil viscosity and something is up with the oil pump area or the pump itself that is letting the pressure drop.

 

[Easter Bunny]

What weight oil are you running?

 

[Shakes MPS 3]

From personal experience,

I've idled the car with confirmed oil temps at 260f+. no low oil pressure light. pressure at that time was about 8-12psi. This is after coming off track, multiple multiple times a year. I can almost promise you, actually I will promise you your oil temps aren't even close to touching that.

more from personal experience,
at idle, after cruising, 32c ambient(90f) sitting in traffic oil temps linger around 220-230ish. This is definitely high but you should be making enough pressure to keep that pesky light away unless of course...excessive wear somewhere.

Okay thank you for that, I'll try drop the sump this weekend and see if there aren't any abnormalities there.

I've only been driving this car for about 2 months and all I know is that it has a couple of mods on it, not exactly sure which one. But I did pull the hpfp and was glad to be greeted by Autotech hpfp internals.

90c is toasty sure but in these cars rad fans don't even kick on until 98c.
Also the 2010+ models come with spin on filters you can buy the filter housing and put it on the earlier models. To be able to run a spin on filter and sandwich plate.
https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem...azdaspeed-3-2007-2009-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

As others have said I do not believe it to be a temp issue at the temp you're seeing as that temp is fine for the speed. You're probably getting lower on the oil viscosity and something is up with the oil pump area or the pump itself that is letting the pressure drop.

Okay I'll try dropping the sump this weekend to see if all looks well down there.

I've only had the car for about 2 month and don't really know what mods it has but I know it has quite a few.

Autotech hpfp internals
FMIC
Intake
EGR delete
Oil catch can
Short shifter plate
Debate
Res delete

I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it also has balance shaft delete because it shakes the whole dash while idling, or it could be worn out mounts.

90c is toasty sure but in these cars rad fans don't even kick on until 98c.
Also the 2010+ models come with spin on filters you can buy the filter housing and put it on the earlier models. To be able to run a spin on filter and sandwich plate.
https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem...azdaspeed-3-2007-2009-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

As others have said I do not believe it to be a temp issue at the temp you're seeing as that temp is fine for the speed. You're probably getting lower on the oil viscosity and something is up with the oil pump area or the pump itself that is letting the pressure drop.

Thanks for the link, however I'll probably have to scour the local junk yards for the spin on oil filter. Being in South Africa the exchange rate is horrible, especially once you factor in shipping and import duties. But at least now I know what to look for.

Do you know what the pressure actually is? The pressure light is generally a dummy light that comes on at 5psi or less which is no good and you have some issues if it is getting that low. If you can install a gauge and see what the pressure actually is that would help. Your idle pressure at 1k should be close to 20 when fully hot "210f" and your driving pressure should be close to 20 over RPM. So 3k rpm would be about 50psi.

Don't know the exact oil pressure since I don't have a sandwich plate and pressure sensor, unless if this information can be accessed via OBD II scanner.

 

[Awafrican]

Okay thank you for that, I'll try drop the sump this weekend and see if there aren't any abnormalities there.

I've only been driving this car for about 2 months and all I know is that it has a couple of mods on it, not exactly sure which one. But I did pull the hpfp and was glad to be greeted by Autotech hpfp internals.


Okay I'll try dropping the sump this weekend to see if all looks well down there.

I've only had the car for about 2 month and don't really know what mods it has but I know it has quite a few.

Autotech hpfp internals
FMIC
Intake
EGR delete
Oil catch can
Short shifter plate
Debate
Res delete

I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it also has balance shaft delete because it shakes the whole dash while idling, or it could be worn out mounts.



Thanks for the link, however I'll probably have to scour the local junk yards for the spin on oil filter. Being in South Africa the exchange rate is horrible, especially once you factor in shipping and import duties. But at least now I know what to look for.


Don't know the exact oil pressure since I don't have a sandwich plate and pressure sensor, unless if this information can be accessed via OBD II scanner.

You can also get the parts from the dealership, parts are (click PN will link to cars that also have same parts for junk yard ):
Oil. Filter. Engine. (Front). (Housing)
Part Number: L31114311A
Engine Oil Filter
Part Number: LF0514302B
Oil. Filter. Engine. Gasket. Housing.
Part Number: LF0214342

 

[Shakes MPS 3]

You can also get the parts from the dealership, parts are (click PN will link to cars that also have same parts for junk yard ):
Oil. Filter. Engine. (Front). (Housing)
Part Number: L31114311A
Engine Oil Filter
Part Number: LF0514302B
Oil. Filter. Engine. Gasket. Housing.
Part Number: LF0214342

This helps me out big time, at least now I know exactly where to look and what to look out for, thank you.

 

[Awafrican]

@Shakes MPS 3 how are you making out?

 

[Shakes MPS 3]

@Shakes MPS 3 how are you making out?

Hey, sorry for the late reply, I somehow only saw the notification now.

Dropped the whole sump and all and pleasantly surprised that I have Molar Technologies forged H beam pistons, balance shaft delete and oil sump baffle. Which made me very happy as I've saved a few bucks now. I'll give a full list of my mods at the end of this post as to not divert attention from the low oil pressure issue.

As I had just said, I dropped the sump, removed the oil pick up and cleaned it out. The oil pick up was pretty much not dirty or clogged and the screen still in tact. Just as I thought, cleaning out the oil screen did not make much difference.

Just, a quick summary, my oil light only comes on at idle when the car coolant temps are above 100C/212F. So I hooked up my OBD II scanner in attempts to pick up something, it is only by monitoring RPM that I realised that the oil light only begins to flicker when my idling RPMs are below or equal 650RPM whereas when the car is still cool and behaving the idle is usually around 750rpm. It almost sounds and feels like the engine is about to cut out when this happens and if I apply a bit of throttle to make the RPM go back to 750-800RPM the flicking oil light goes away.

PLEASE BEAR WITH ME, THIS MIGHT BE A LONG POST AS I WANT TO GIVE A FULL ACCOUNT OF WHAT I KNOW AND SUSPECT.

Okay, so after figuring out that the oil pickup is not clogged and that the oil pump functions fine (since applying gas to idle at 750-800RPM makes the light go away, which is OEM range from what I understand) I figured that the oil light comes on due to some idling problem I have. I started researching what could cause irregular idling and amongst the several issues I found; dirty MAF, dirty throttle body, malfunctioning O2 sensor, running rich and few more which I have forgotten.

So I plugged in my trusty OBD II scanner to see what I could come up with, lo and behold;
P2188: System too rich at idle bank 1
P0134: 02 sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor 1
P0012: A camshaft position timing over-retarded bank 1

From what I theorise, the faulty 02 sensor (P0134) is causing a rich condition , which only occurs at idle in my case (P2188), a rich condition alone can cause irregular idling which causes the RPMs to drop and if they drop enough the engine will switch off as it is not producing enough power to overcome the rotating assembly inertia, friction and powering auxiliaries such as water pump, oil pump, alternator and A/C amongst others.

Somehow when the engine is running warm, north of 100C/212F the adverse effects of running rich are exacerbated. I know for a fact that the heat makes the problem worse because if I drive early in the morning and ambient temperatures are around 12C/54F the oil light does not flicker even with coolant temps of 100C/212F but if I drive in the afternoon when ambient is about 28C/83F then that only when the unwelcomed flickering light comes back.

Also, the 02 sensor (P0134) usually goes away after a short drive but ever since I've had the car the P2188 and P0012 have been present. I am considering getting a new 02 sensor but I also want to go back to school so I am not sure whether I'll have time to wrench o the car any longer and I don't trust mechanics so I do everything by myself.

Anyway, if you got to the end of that long read let me reward you with my mod list and let you guess how much power I'm making at the wheels :

• Molnar Technologies forged H beam conrods
• ARP series 2000 conrod bolts
• Autotech HPFP internals
• Front mount intercooler relocation kit
• 3" turbo cold air intake
• Oil catch can
• Downpipe with cat delete
• Resonator delete
• Balance shaft delete
• Oil sump baffle
• EGR delete
• MAC boost solenoid

 

[Bobbytron21]

Hey, sorry for the late reply, I somehow only saw the notification now.

Dropped the whole sump and all and pleasantly surprised that I have Molar Technologies forged H beam pistons, balance shaft delete and oil sump baffle. Which made me very happy as I've saved a few bucks now. I'll give a full list of my mods at the end of this post as to not divert attention from the low oil pressure issue.

As I had just said, I dropped the sump, removed the oil pick up and cleaned it out. The oil pick up was pretty much not dirty or clogged and the screen still in tact. Just as I thought, cleaning out the oil screen did not make much difference.

Just, a quick summary, my oil light only comes on at idle when the car coolant temps are above 100C/212F. So I hooked up my OBD II scanner in attempts to pick up something, it is only by monitoring RPM that I realised that the oil light only begins to flicker when my idling RPMs are below or equal 650RPM whereas when the car is still cool and behaving the idle is usually around 750rpm. It almost sounds and feels like the engine is about to cut out when this happens and if I apply a bit of throttle to make the RPM go back to 750-800RPM the flicking oil light goes away.

PLEASE BEAR WITH ME, THIS MIGHT BE A LONG POST AS I WANT TO GIVE A FULL ACCOUNT OF WHAT I KNOW AND SUSPECT.

Okay, so after figuring out that the oil pickup is not clogged and that the oil pump functions fine (since applying gas to idle at 750-800RPM makes the light go away, which is OEM range from what I understand) I figured that the oil light comes on due to some idling problem I have. I started researching what could cause irregular idling and amongst the several issues I found; dirty MAF, dirty throttle body, malfunctioning O2 sensor, running rich and few more which I have forgotten.

So I plugged in my trusty OBD II scanner to see what I could come up with, lo and behold;
P2188: System too rich at idle bank 1
P0134: 02 sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor 1
P0012: A camshaft position timing over-retarded bank 1

From what I theorise, the faulty 02 sensor (P0134) is causing a rich condition , which only occurs at idle in my case (P2188), a rich condition alone can cause irregular idling which causes the RPMs to drop and if they drop enough the engine will switch off as it is not producing enough power to overcome the rotating assembly inertia, friction and powering auxiliaries such as water pump, oil pump, alternator and A/C amongst others.

Somehow when the engine is running warm, north of 100C/212F the adverse effects of running rich are exacerbated. I know for a fact that the heat makes the problem worse because if I drive early in the morning and ambient temperatures are around 12C/54F the oil light does not flicker even with coolant temps of 100C/212F but if I drive in the afternoon when ambient is about 28C/83F then that only when the unwelcomed flickering light comes back.

Also, the 02 sensor (P0134) usually goes away after a short drive but ever since I've had the car the P2188 and P0012 have been present. I am considering getting a new 02 sensor but I also want to go back to school so I am not sure whether I'll have time to wrench o the car any longer and I don't trust mechanics so I do everything by myself.

Anyway, if you got to the end of that long read let me reward you with my mod list and let you guess how much power I'm making at the wheels :

• Molnar Technologies forged H beam conrods
• ARP series 2000 conrod bolts
• Autotech HPFP internals
• Front mount intercooler relocation kit
• 3" turbo cold air intake
• Oil catch can
• Downpipe with cat delete
• Resonator delete
• Balance shaft delete
• Oil sump baffle
• EGR delete
• MAC boost solenoid

I know this is an old thread but did you find a definite fix for this issue? because i’m having the same exact problem. Driving at colder times I don’t really have an issue, but my idle seems a little off and in stop and go traffic on hot days, my oil light begins to flicker. It’s very eerie to see and I can’t seem to figure out what’s causing this issue for the life of me. Any tips on what to check out would be very very appreciated.

 

[Awafrican]

sorry I missed the post from years ago, might need a different weight oil and bump the idle up

 

[Easter Bunny]

Gotta fix the idle issue