Ms3 slave cylinder over extending

Sho

Sho

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Last week I had my slave cylinder fail on me. The rod overextended, pushed the black plastic ring off of the housing and into the boot, which then filled with fluid and I lost all clutch pedal pressure. The oring/seal on the rod was ripped, so I went ahead and purchased a new one from edge.

Installed that last night, manually bled the slave via the old 2 person method, with them pumping the pedal and holding it to the floor, then myself cracking the bleeder open, closing the valve, then them pulling up on the pedal.

Pedal now has fantastic pressure, however I'm running into an issue. I Can drive around fine, however if I push the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor, you can hear and feel in the pedal, a pop/click, and if I immediately Let off the pedal, get out if the car, and go reach down and grab the boot on the slave, and the ring is slightly popped out. Luckily no fluid escaping.

This leads me to believe that theres a bit too much travel in the pedal or something is off with the clutch fork and allowing the rod in the slave cylinder to over extend.

Any ideas other than fashioning a spacer between the end of the rod on the slave and the fork? Or does it just need to be bled more?

I did notice that I do have about 1.5 inch of loose pedal travel at the top of the pedal if I just lay my foot on the pedal. Got in a friend's gen 1 and his has a tiny dead spot, but maybe only for a half inch at the top of the pedal.

Any ideas are appreciated!

Ring circled in attached pic. The part where it is seperated, is the part that pops out of the slave housing right now. Not the whole thing, just a little portion where the circle is split
 

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A local was having the same problem...we went through like 4 slave cylinders trying to fix it. I'll ask him what he finally came up with for a solution, I don't recall what finally fixed it off the top of my head.
 
Quigs said:
A local was having the same problem...we went through like 4 slave cylinders trying to fix it. I'll ask him what he finally came up with for a solution, I don't recall what finally fixed it off the top of my head.
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Thank you!

A master tech did send me these two diagrams as well. He said the pedal being messed up has caused issues.
 

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Sho said:
Any word, @Quigs?
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We have been discussing it at length since you posted this thread. I had thought he had remedied the issue, but it turns out he has not yet. Looks like we might be dropping his transmission again as he thinks the fork might have bent or needs a spacer to stop the slave from overextending. We can't find any other potential issues outside of the transmission, so out it comes.
 
Quigs said:
We have been discussing it at length since you posted this thread. I had thought he had remedied the issue, but it turns out he has not yet. Looks like we might be dropping his transmission again as he thinks the fork might have bent or needs a spacer to stop the slave from overextending. We can't find any other potential issues outside of the transmission, so out it comes.
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Well, shit. Next question is, has he been able to drive the car at all? Or is the slave popping as soon as he pushes the clutch down once the system is bled?


I hooked up a power bleeder to mine, and have been able to drive about 200 miles since posting this thread now. However I'm still terrified to push the clutch all the way down with force while flat foot shifting and what not. So I've been driving around pretty gingerly.
 
Sho said:
Well, shit. Next question is, has he been able to drive the car at all? Or is the slave popping as soon as he pushes the clutch down once the system is bled?


I hooked up a power bleeder to mine, and have been able to drive about 200 miles since posting this thread now. However I'm still terrified to push the clutch all the way down with force while flat foot shifting and what not. So I've been driving around pretty gingerly.
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He has been driving the car, but said that he doesn't feel confident at all with it. It was originally not driveable without blowing out the o-ring between the slave and hardline, but since we got that problem fixed it has been at least driveable.
 
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FWIW, the actuator rod on the clutch pedal arm can be adjusted, presumably to stop the very problem of overextending the slave. Don`t know if any of you guys knew or had tried it.
 
VoodooJef said:
FWIW, the actuator rod on the clutch pedal arm can be adjusted, presumably to stop the very problem of overextending the slave. Don`t know if any of you guys knew or had tried it.
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IIRC, that's for ms6 only. And not possible for ms3. I'll look into it, though
 
The gen2 clutch pedal cannot be adjusted. I don't know about the gen1 though.
 
Hmm. Then what the hell article did I read on that? I try not to post things that I just pull out of my ass LOL.
[doublepost=1499112429][/doublepost]well shit, the how-to I had bookmarked is for MS6. So much for searching "mazdaspeed 3 clutch adjustment". LOL. Sorry guys, my mistake.
 
dann0 said:
super old thread but how did you fix the over extending slave problem?
Click to expand...

I did a transmission and clutch replacement on my buddies IS300 last weekend.

Interestingly enough, his clutch pedal had a spring like feeling which messed with his engagement.

Eventually, the slave piston popped out and the boot filled with fluid... Towed the car to the garage.

SOLUTION:
In his case, the aftermarket clutch kit he received also comes with a longer actuator rod for the slave cylinder. This is designed to compensate for a different travel and prevent hyper-extending the slave. The manufacturer simply sent the wrong actuator rod length.

Using that information, I imagine that the pressure plate actuation must take this travel into careful consideration. I also imagine that a worn/broken/poorly designed pressure plate may change the range your slave cylinder operates in.

The more likely option is the slave/master or a poorly bled system.

Other than that, Based on some online reading, I found that people have seen the clutch release fork pivot ball break. I have never seen this myself.

Do you have an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate?
 
The_big_dill said:
I did a transmission and clutch replacement on my buddies IS300 last weekend.

Interestingly enough, his clutch pedal had a spring like feeling which messed with his engagement.

Eventually, the slave piston popped out and the boot filled with fluid... Towed the car to the garage.

SOLUTION:
In his case, the aftermarket clutch kit he received also comes with a longer actuator rod for the slave cylinder. This is designed to compensate for a different travel and prevent hyper-extending the slave. The manufacturer simply sent the wrong actuator rod length.

Using that information, I imagine that the pressure plate actuation must take this travel into careful consideration. I also imagine that a worn/broken/poorly designed pressure plate may change the range your slave cylinder operates in.

The more likely option is the slave/master or a poorly bled system.

Other than that, Based on some online reading, I found that people have seen the clutch release fork pivot ball break. I have never seen this myself.

Do you have an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate?
Click to expand...
thanks for the response
yes car has a ACT kit (flywheel, pressure plate, disc)
waiting on new fork and pivot ball to compare with current...
all part numbers for kit are correct also
 
Do you still have this issue with the ACT kit? I just fitted the ACT clutch kit and im having the issue of the slave cylinder over extending and the retainer clip popping off. This is on a gen 1 speed 3, kinda stumped on what to do, power bled the system and manually bled with 2 people keeping the res filled to the brim with fluid.

Any solutions out there?
 
Shakeel Ali said:
Do you still have this issue with the ACT kit? I just fitted the ACT clutch kit and im having the issue of the slave cylinder over extending and the retainer clip popping off. This is on a gen 1 speed 3, kinda stumped on what to do, power bled the system and manually bled with 2 people keeping the res filled to the brim with fluid.

Any solutions out there?
Click to expand...

I'm running the ACT kit and flywheel. I used the slave from Edge (OE Mazda) and it failed within a week. I used a proper bleeder tool and everything. Ended up getting one local from a parts store and it hasn't failed yet. Not sure what the deal was.
 
Maybe you got a batch of bad ACT pressure plates or something out of spec?

Im surprised OEM slave didn't work for you L337.
 
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