My Auction Mazdaspeed

Trademark

Greenie N00B Member
Hello, everybody!

I am the concerned owner of a new-to-me 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 with 117k miles. Long story short, I won this on auction as a "runs and drives" car as my daily is down indefinitely. Yes this was a risky play, but I'll openly acknowledge my gamling promblem. My goal with the car is to basically clean it up and get it running well until my daily is back on the road. Then maybe we'll see about a big turbo 2.5 build.

That said, it does indeed run and drive. I made it the entire hour and a half back home with only a couple hiccups. Outside of the battery being dead when I got it, and a single problem in traffic, it actually did far better than I had hoped. I double-checked that I had roadside covered before I left that morning if that says anything.

Mods I've found:
- Cobb intake
- HKS BOV
- HKS Exhaust
- Rev9 coilovers (ride is awful)
- Added boost gauge

Problems:
- Again, the ride is awful. Either these coilovers are shot, are installed wrong, or are just terrible. Loud clunks on bumps at highway speeds, and it feels like practically no suspension movement. It's an old car, so I'm thinking some bushings all round wouldn't hurt.
- Does not like to idle. It wants to try sitting around 500 RPM and it just tries to die, then sometimes effectively restarts itself. I let it sit for a while and it sat around 1k, but if revved it tanks back down to 500 when the revs drop.
- It will not go north of 5k. It's just like hitting a rev limiter. I've seen a few people have this issue, and resolutions have been all over the place (clutch switch, collapsing intake, no resolution, etc.).
- The shifter feels reluctant to move. It just feels sludgy and doesn't really want to go into gears. I'm hoping cleaning up the shifter components will smooth this out some. I'm thinking this has a short shifter, but I have not verified this yet.
- Clutch does not disable cruise control. It just sends the revs to the moon (which is 5k in this case). Maybe a clutch switch is in order, but unsure which one. The car does not start if the clutch is not pressed.
- Hood latch handle is broken. Using a universal hood popper at the moment (read: pliers).
- Some body issues. Paint is rough in some places, and clear coat is in need of love. Front bumper is coming loose at the top on both sides near the fender. This is apparently a thing with these cars. Sidesikirts both have a random screw holding them in at the rear. Somebody must have hate these wheels. They hold air, but man they are not in good shape. And the headlights need buffed out.

I believe that's the majority of my observations at this point. It's been in the teens to twenties the last couple days, so i haven't been really motivated to dig into it much further. I did go start it up to make sure it would still do that, but not much else. I'm really surprised that it does seem to pull well between that 2k to 5k range given how weird it is outside of that. I'm open to any and all suggestions on where to start with the issues I'm having. I wanted one of these back when they released, so I'd like to finally have a fun one to cruise the kids around in. Again, any and all help and insight is appreciated.
 
Lots to decompress here.

What was the primary damage?
Compression test, spark plug replacement?
5k is pretty much it on a stock tune
93 octane?
Check for upgraded hpfp
Is there a catless downpipe? If so hope you have the hpfp.
Get a copy of Versatuner or Cobb AP and upload logs
Take a look at the shifter and cables. From the shifter itself to trans. Post pics too.
Pics?
 
Lots to decompress here.

What was the primary damage?
Compression test, spark plug replacement?
5k is pretty much it on a stock tune
93 octane?
Check for upgraded hpfp
Is there a catless downpipe? If so hope you have the hpfp.
Get a copy of Versatuner or Cobb AP and upload logs
Take a look at the shifter and cables. From the shifter itself to trans. Post pics too.
Pics?

Thank you for your response. And agreed. There's a whole lot going on with this.

Primary damage was normal wear and tear.
Just got it home yesterday, so no compression test yet. It's on the list to be done soon.
I plan on doing plugs, oil, etc. first. It's supposed to be in the 60s this week, so all that should begin soon.
Suggestions for identifying if the hpfp upgrades have been done?
I haven't been able to see if the down pipe has been done. Again, just too cold yesterday when I got it home.
I am about to order the AP. Any recommendations between the two? I'm familiar with Cobb so that was why I was going that route.
Shifter cables and whatnot are also up as soon as the temps come up. I've only been into a shifter once before (300zx shifter bushing), so should be a learning experience.
Pic soon. It's extremely dirty from the lot and with it being below freezing all the car washes are closed. Once I can get the grunge off I'll get pics of the whole thing added.
Thank you again. It is really appreciated.
 
Also, it was full when I picked it up. I'm in TX so 93 is everywhere and is all that will get ran through it.
 
Check the battery if it's weak it can cause a lot of stupid shit. It can have enough power to start the car and still be bad
 
Check the battery if it's weak it can cause a lot of stupid shit. It can have enough power to start the car and still be bad

The battery was dead when the driver got it off his truck. He hooked it up and said it looked good, it had just been sitting he suspected. Now that it had some time to run I'll take the meter to it and see what it says. I appreciate the insight.
 
Lack of idle could be a dirty maf or massive leaks in the intake

I'm honestly not sure about the intake setup. It's a Cobb, but something just feels off about it. Hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to get into it more.

The other thing I had planned was cleaning the throttle body. I've seen that they can supposedly get pretty dirty and cause idle issues.
 
The cobb intake requires a tune on gen 2 so it's not the best stock sized intake. It should be fine on a gen 1 just take it apart and inspect all the couplers for tears
 
So I have a quick update. I received my AP today and checked the codes to see what was being thrown. On top of that, I guess I verified the car was previously tuned. When I went to install the AP, I was greeted with the message about losing the current tune forever. I left it alone for now while I'm testing other things since it at least lets the car run sort of.

Now for the codes:
P0300 (Lots of misfires)
P2187 (Lean at idle, had a suspicion)
U2064 (ECM comm issue. Hopefully just the TPMS)
U2616 (TPMS issue)

The misfires and lean idle are not surprising and most likely related. New plugs, packs, gas, and sorting out the tune hopefully will start resolving this. I'm hoping the ECM comm issue is just tied to the TPMS system not working. I can live without that for now.

But that's where I stand at the moment. Need a little more time to dig into what parts are on it, and for stuff like new plugs to get in. The family has the plague at the moment, so I can't really get out and pick up stuff. Hopefully in a couple days I can pick up the pace on it.
 
Post engine bay pics and such. We might be able to just eyeball it all.

edit: Are you able to datalog without over writing the tune?

I was only able to toy with it briefly on lunch today, so I didn't get a chance to see what all options I had available beside the two I planned to check. I will absolutely look into that soon.

I plan to get pictures posted up soon. I wanted to try cleaning it up a little bit to make it a bit easier on the eyes first. Those are due here very soon.
 
I grabbed some quick pictures of the bay before the sun went down. If you guys see anything out of place you'd like to see closer, please point it out and I'll grab some more.

I'll get some of the whole car soon, just want get it at least a little bit cleaned up first.
 

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I'd bet you have an air leak time for a boost leak test what's your ltft (long term fuel trim) at idle and cruise ? should be less than +/-7 ideally +/-5

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-build-and-perform-boost-leak-tester.8853/

also looks like your valve cover breather hose onto the intake isn't actually fully connected, circled for you20250225_183025~2.jpg

also looking at your bov it looks ike that flange onto IC isn't fully aligned I wonder if that's leaking too. no zip tie on the small hose coming off bov another potential leak under boost man that T for the boost gauge is a hodge podge job
 
I'd bet you have an air leak time for a boost leak test what's your ltft (long term fuel trim) at idle and cruise ? should be less than +/-7 ideally +/-5

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-build-and-perform-boost-leak-tester.8853/

also looks like your valve cover breather hose onto the intake isn't actually fully connected, circled for youView attachment 30926

also looking at your bov it looks ike that flange onto IC isn't fully aligned I wonder if that's leaking too

I'll have to look into the trim and get back on that. Hopefully I'll be able to run logs before I remove the current tune.

The BOV i noticed wasn't particularly well secured. It was on my list of things to look at. I didn't, however, notice the breather hose. I'll take a peek at that tomorrow. Thank you for looking and giving insight.
 
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