[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

[chris' speed 3]

What's that hose that isn't connected to anything in the last picture you posted?

Thats my vented catch can, i disconnected it and put the stock hose back to see if it would change anything

You can't see the c-clip on the actuator arm in that pic. I'm assuming it is on but you won't know unless you put your hand down in there and feel to be sure. Nonetheless that is a good possibility that you'll be faced with that. Rebuilding one that isn't blown up wouldn't be too expensive if going stock. The problem is that most people fall down the built motor rabbit hole such as myself lol

I'll be going stock motor as 3-350whp is plenty for me, ive already gotten too many speeding tickets as is.

do you have a picture of this c-clip actuator you speak of?

 

[Enki]

Stock hose would go from intake to valve cover. That's what you did, correct?

 

[chris' speed 3]

Stock hose would go from intake to valve cover. That's what you did, correct?

yeah i put it back in the same location

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I'll be going stock motor as 3-350whp is plenty for me, ive already gotten too many speeding tickets as is.

do you have a picture of this c-clip actuator you speak of?

So it is a c-clip that holds the actuator arm onto the flapper inside the exhaust side of the turbo housing. This ad for a ko4 lets you see it in a pic. Look at the wastegate actuator and then at the end of the rod is a little clip. If that comes undone it will not allow your wastegate to stay shut to build boost.

Amazon product ASIN B00RYGMKQU

 

[chris' speed 3]

Heres a log of idling and me slightly revving it, keeps going lean

 

[Enki]

Since you have a stock size intake have you tried going back to stock tune or a stage 0 to see if it changes?

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Heres a log of idling and me slightly revving it, keeps going lean

I think you need to buy a new primary o2 sensor. They can screw everything up afr related. If you haven't ever replaced it then it is a good idea to anyways just so you know your readings are accurate from it.

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...fzg904X2nUM4cTHCk7q963iVuHk25oOBoC76EQAvD_BwE

 

[Enki]

If his secondary is still in working order then it would compensate for the primary. That's basically why it's there in the first place. If it were actually out of whack, he should get a code pretty quickly.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

That's true he should be getting a code for anything that is a sensor or electronic failure. Seems to me to be something mechanical more than electronic.

 

[chris' speed 3]

I think you need to buy a new primary o2 sensor. They can screw everything up afr related. If you haven't ever replaced it then it is a good idea to anyways just so you know your readings are accurate from it.

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...fzg904X2nUM4cTHCk7q963iVuHk25oOBoC76EQAvD_BwE

If his secondary is still in working order then it would compensate for the primary. That's basically why it's there in the first place. If it were actually out of whack, he should get a code pretty quickly.

I’m going to take it to a shop that specializes in mazdaspeeds, they build engines for people all over North America, called bob speed idk if u guys have heard about it

The thing is that every thing I could change should have a code related to it and I’m not getting a code, like low compression in cylinder 4 should cause a p0304 but I’m only getting p0300. If I was running lean consistently I should get p0171. It’s jsut very weird but hopefully the guys at the shop will figure it out. I’m tired of driving like a granny

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I’m going to take it to a shop that specializes in mazdaspeeds, they build engines for people all over North America, called bob speed idk if u guys have heard about it

The thing is that every thing I could change should have a code related to it and I’m not getting a code, like low compression in cylinder 4 should cause a p0304 but I’m only getting p0300. If I was running lean consistently I should get p0171. It’s jsut very weird but hopefully the guys at the shop will figure it out. I’m tired of driving like a granny

Hope it is something simple man. Let us know what it is though so if someone else has this issue they will know what to do!

 

[chris' speed 3]

Hope it is something simple man. Let us know what it is though so if someone else has this issue they will know what to do!

I will
I went out and got some fuel system cleaner today, I know it’s a long shot but for 15$ why not

I’m also going to take off my intake manifold tomorrow and check everything out if that doesn’t fix whatever’s wrong with it, it’s going to the shop
@Enki @StreetSpeed6

 

[Enki]

Since you have a stock size intake have you tried going back to stock tune or a stage 0 to see if it changes?

 

[chris' speed 3]

ill try this tmr

Since you have a stock size intake have you tried going back to stock tune or a stage 0 to see if it changes?

when I take the intake manifold off tomorrow, should i swap my catch cans? put the vented one for the pcv and sealed for VC?
If yes, does the sealed can on the vc->intake need a check valve?
@Enki

 

[Enki]

No point in it if removing them from play changed nothing.

 

[chris' speed 3]

No point in it if removing them from play changed nothing.

okay I won't touch it then

No point in it if removing them from play changed nothing.

Also do you have an understanding of closed loop? I put it as one of my datalog parameters but I'm not sure what it is or how it works

 

[Enki]

That won't tell you anything. Irrelevant.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Also do you have an understanding of closed loop? I put it as one of my datalog parameters but I'm not sure what it is or how it works

Closed loop means the ECU is using short term and long term fuel trims to keep fuel economy and emissions in check. The front oxygen sensor monitors the air to fuel ratio. The rear one is after the catalytic converter and monitors the health of the catalytic converter. If the computer sees the car is running too rich from the front O2 it begins to pull fuel away to bring the STFT closer to 0. LTFT is an average of the STFT readings and is used to diagnose over all trim concerns.

When you go WOT the car is no longer in closed loop. It defaults to open loop. The ECU is basically going off of set parameters in it's tables and that's it. If your AFR table says 11:1 at X RPM it dumps enough fuel to get you there but it's not a 100 percent accurate. That's where tuning comes in.

You'd adjust the fuel cells or VE table to get the AFR measured closer to what the AFR target is.

 

[chris' speed 3]

Closed loop means the ECU is using short term and long term fuel trims to keep fuel economy and emissions in check. The front oxygen sensor monitors the air to fuel ratio. The rear one is after the catalytic converter and monitors the health of the catalytic converter. If the computer sees the car is running too rich from the front O2 it begins to pull fuel away to bring the STFT closer to 0. LTFT is an average of the STFT readings and is used to diagnose over all trim concerns.

When you go WOT the car is no longer in closed loop. It defaults to open loop. The ECU is basically going off of set parameters in it's tables and that's it. If your AFR table says 11:1 at X RPM it dumps enough fuel to get you there but it's not a 100 percent accurate. That's where tuning comes in.

You'd adjust the fuel cells or VE table to get the AFR measured closer to what the AFR target is.

awesome thanks this was a great explanation
I was looking at the log I took with closed loop parameter set on and I was getting 1024,512,256, is there different levels to closed loop or is it just its either in open or closed loop?

 

[chris' speed 3]

took my IM off, put everything back on tight. i checked all the hoses and everything is good. Idk anymore, maybe a valve isn't closing properly and it's causing air to continue flowing in?
also checked that rod with the c-clip, couldn't see the actual clip because of heat shields, the rod is tight tho
@Enki @StreetSpeed6