[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

L337TurboZ said:
Alright look it doesn't matter at all if you have spark plugs in or out of other cylinders when you do a compression test.

The strain on one cylinder does not affect the others unless you're doing a cylinder power balance test which is done by disabling each fuel injector individually.

If you're getting soot out of the exhaust then the engine is running stupid rich or not completely burning the mixture.

When you do a compression test you do it in the following steps.

1.) Remove spark plugs
2.) Install compression gauge into a cylinder
3.) Hold the gas pedal WOT to enable fuel cut/clear flood mode and to allow air to easily enter the engine
4.) While holding the gas pedal crank the car while you or an assistant monitor the gauge. Once it stops climbing record the reading
5.) Repeat test with each other cylinder
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That’s we did and the numbers didn’t have more then 10 psi difference, he thinks maybe the VVT is messed up and not working properly. Or thag the engine is jsut done and needs rebuilding. I’m going back next week
We don’t think it’s anything to do with any accessories on the car, it’s a mechanical issue with the engine itself somewhere
 
If the VVT was messed up you'd have timing related codes set immediately upon the engine running. They are Type A DTC's. If the VVT was messed up and timing was off on the intake camshaft you'd have low compression across all cylinders not just one when you originally did your test.

In regards to the mechanic you took it to maybe his compression gauge is more accurate and that's why you got a consistent reading.
 
L337TurboZ said:
If the VVT was messed up you'd have timing related codes set immediately upon the engine running. They are Type A DTC's. If the VVT was messed up and timing was off on the intake camshaft you'd have low compression across all cylinders not just one when you originally did your test.

In regards to the mechanic you took it to maybe his compression gauge is more accurate and that's why you got a consistent reading.
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i trust his compression guage way more then mine as I never get a consistent reading and before I bought the car this same shop did a compression test in the motor and it was 165 across all 4. Now it’s like 150-155s
His compressor wasn’t working properly or something but he has a new one on the way, once he gets it I’m going back and we’re doing a leak down test as well as taking the valve cover off we tried today but 2 bolts r round and going to take some time. My VVT isn’t oem which is why he thinks it might be problematic.

As for spark the spark plugs today all looked really good and the ground is tight

I’ve also managed to track down the second owner of the car as I’m the fourth owner. To try and find out how many km are on the engine that’s in it.
 
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Unless your vvt is broken and moves freely by hand it is fine. Do not swap a working one for an open one it will not solve the problem

I also have no idea how he could tell it wasn't oem without taking the valve cover off
 
Easter Bunny said:
Unless your vvt is broken and moves freely by hand it is fine. Do not swap a working one for an open one it will not solve the problem

I also have no idea how he could tell it wasn't oem without taking the valve cover off
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The solenoid on top that wire harness connects too, the solenoid for the VVT i think it is. Doesn't have the L3K9 or mazda written anywhere on it
 
The solenoid isn't part of the vvt, it controls oil flow to the vvt but it's not the same as the part bolted to the camshaft
 
Easter Bunny said:
The solenoid isn't part of the vvt, it controls oil flow to the vvt but it's not the same as the part bolted to the camshaft
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Okay my bad, that part isn't oem. Honestly I doubt its that because I'd be getting a code. But there's nothing left to check besides leak down testing it.
 
Update: i haven't fixed it yet, no new leads or anything but I still think it might be coil related as they require more power as load increases and if they're worn they can't meet demands
I want to get my hands on a scanner that reads individual cylinder misfire so i can see what cylinder/cylinders are causing the misfire
i might try swapping the coils with another speed and see what happens, nothing to lose
i don't want to ruin the new cat i just put in
 
jesus said:
Have you used this downpipe in the passed ? tempted to buy it for mine
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I haven't used this specific pipe as I have a speed 6 but I have only ran ebay brand catless long downpipes and as long as you don't wrap them they last pretty well and aren't bad at all!

I say go for it man they are good enough quality for what we do on our platform.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
I haven't used this specific pipe as I have a speed 6 but I have only ran ebay brand catless long downpipes and as long as you don't wrap them they last pretty well and aren't bad at all!

I say go for it man they are good enough quality for what we do on our platform.
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yeah just placed an order for one now gonna see how it all turns out once it arrives, i have had a ebay downpipe for a while now and it lasted me well
 
jesus said:
yeah just placed an order for one now gonna see how it all turns out once it arrives, i have had a ebay downpipe for a while now and it lasted me well
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They are underrated in my opinion. From my experience the eBay dp usually works great, you just can't wrap it or it self destructs lol
 
hey guys, i have some kinda good news
One, it seems like the misfires are only happening on cylinders 2 and 3, only thing i can think of that's relevant to only these 2 cylinders is back in august i had a p0202 and swapped injectors 2 and 3 , but that was more then 2k km ago, maybe the seals are leaking air? not sure if thats how that works
Second, my uncle was able to book me an appointment with the mechanic he uses to service his work trucks so I'll be taking it to a proper mechanic this week
 
Enki said:
I don't think you can be that lean during a pull and not see some kind of knock.
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Im not that lean, my fuel trims are adding a crap ton of fuel if they weren't adding fuel it'd be much worse but the afr don't go over 15-16 from what i've noticed
 
15 or 16 is VERY lean if it is under boost conditions but under normal driving it just is not obviously ideal and still way too lean. Maybe those two injectors are for some reason failing to spray properly?? Keep us updated on what it is that the mechanic finds
 
Enki said:
I once hit 14.7 at WOT with full e85 preventing knock and it broke ringlands.
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Im not going WOT, the most I can go is 40% throttle then in misses

StreetSpeed6 said:
15 or 16 is VERY lean if it is under boost conditions but under normal driving it just is not obviously ideal and still way too lean. Maybe those two injectors are for some reason failing to spray properly?? Keep us updated on what it is that the mechanic finds
Click to expand...

Ive had one injector down before and my AFR were reading 29, i really don't know but its going to a garage friday, FINALLY, so hopefully thy find what's wrong
 
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