Rebuild - Info

Speedhunter said:
I'm looking right now just to avoid any further problem I will keep my K04 for the moment and go with a WMI setup on my JMF IM to avoid excessif heat in the engine ...and have reliabilty max out ... I will choice the windshield washer tank + meth bung on the JMF IM with devil's own material with 4 x DO2 nozzles etc etc ... and when everything will be nice or my K04 dead I will go GTX2867R after or even GTX30XX.

Right now ... I'm looking for the best option for me for rod + piston in 4032 Alloy ... Speed Performance doesn't suggest me to go with Supertech ... because of failing rates !?!?!? they suggest their rod + piston ... I'm a Canadian so I searching the best possibility for me for the best price to build my engine ... locally or keep all my stuff from US and import ...
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Yeah, they're saying that because Supertechs are one of the least-proven offerings on our platform. I don't recall a single build that's used them (it's that rare). Going with a proven solution >>> being a guinea pig on an expense like building a motor, you know?
 
Redline said:
I thought oil squirters were only for piston cooling. Crank splash onto the cylinder walls is for proper oiling/avoiding starvation, IIRC. That was the issue with the balance shafts - they blocked splash up into cylinder 3.

The GTX2867r is a 47 lbs/min turbo. This very likely won't get you close to 500whp. Consult a reputable tuner for more on this. Justin only his 445whp on his, and with head work (don't take my word on it). Found the info I referred to in the other thread:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f428/gtx2867-445hp-159176/
Lex from Stratified referred to the 2867 as a 440whp turbo for most folks (without that extra engine work).
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Just noticed you replied. From what I'm told the oil squirters, oil pump, and oil pick up all stay the same so the balance shaft doesn't have an effect on oil starvation.
 
Redline said:
Yeah, they're saying that because Supertechs are one of the least-proven offerings on our platform. I don't recall a single build that's used them (it's that rare). Going with a proven solution >>> being a guinea pig on an expense like building a motor, you know?
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Which 4032 allow piston so I must choose ??? to have reliability
[doublepost=1499861458][/doublepost]So I must go with SP63 4032 piston and Manley rods ???
 
Jesus Christ man it's been outlined many times already. Go with the SP Pistons and whatever not stock rod of choice.
 
the WMI setup is it a good move ???

or a good rebuild with good part like a JMF IM + FMIC + SP63 Pistons + Manley Rods ... it's enough to have reliable engine for the long run.

Or adding a WMI kit spraying direct from my IM will avoid extrem heat in the engine and ADD a lot more safety to my engine ???
 
That just depends on how much power you wanna make. Looking for big numbers? Yup. Go meth. You gotta remember there is risk with meth. If that kit fails you're in for some trouble.
 
I want to use it for cooling ... not big power ... just to keep the temp down for reliability so right now I want to build and max out my K04 and if I need more after I can go GTX2867R or 3076 ... but not right now ... so if my WMI setup fail I just don't have cooling so my build will run without problem but just with not the best temp possible ... sound it right ?
 
So basically what your saying is, you want to run meth and not tune for it at all? Because if you tune for it and it fails, it's trouble town.
 
You're right ... if I tune for it ... and it fails ... my timing and everything will be configure with the meth ... it could be tuned with the meth ... and just decrease the temp and if the meth fail but I know my tune can run without a problem ...

but the failing rate of WMI setup is high ??? I must not think about this solution if I want the piece of mind ...I can have a reliable engine with this WMI Setup right ???
 
Where are you from? Not to be a dick but some of your post are a little difficult to understand, and I'm not sure if English is a first language for you, since it seems like we need to keep repeating stuff over and over. Again I'm not trying to be a dick. I wouldn't say meth fail rate is high, but it has happened. Honestly you just need to stop worrying so much about this and thinking way too far into it. A built motor alone is plenty for a ko4 and even a gt series turbo as far as reliability goes if your not planning on high numbers, even with a stock mani.
 
Speedhunter said:
Which 4032 allow piston so I must choose ??? to have reliability
[doublepost=1499861458][/doublepost]So I must go with SP63 4032 piston and Manley rods ???
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The Mahle 4032s were developed directly with a piston engineer at Mahle (named Justin--I've spoken with him a few times) in conjunction with SP63. They did numerous revisions to get things "just right." When I order 4032s, those are the ones I'll be getting.
KiwiFlavor said:
Either get a failsafe or a Guardian Angel.
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Get both, LOL. AFR failsafe to make sure you don't go lean. GA to make sure you don't overboost. That's what I'll be doing. One of my mottos: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. That's why I'm seriously considering pinning/keying even though my 500whp doesn't necessarily call for it. I'd rather be extra safe, you know?
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Speedhunter said:
You're right ... if I tune for it ... and it fails ... my timing and everything will be configure with the meth ... it could be tuned with the meth ... and just decrease the temp and if the meth fail but I know my tune can run without a problem ...

but the failing rate of WMI setup is high ??? I must not think about this solution if I want the piece of mind ...I can have a reliable engine with this WMI Setup right ???
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Do you have a Genpu? (2010-2013)? If so, 4 DO2s running 50/50 or maybe even 70/30 shouldn't require tune adjustments for your AFRs to stay on point. We Gen 2 guys have open-loop (under full boost, basically) fuel trims that can subtract or add ~10-12% fueling on-the-fly. So as long as your MAF calibration is on point, no changes to the tune will be needed. I personally ran a CM7 with 100% methanol and needed no changes to the tune. It's when I went up to the CM10 that I needed adjustment.

Also, if you want as cool bats as possible, run more methanol (or pure methanol) and inject at or a few inches before the throttle body. If you want as cool combustion chambers as possible, do direct port and use a water/methanol mix (water can absorb a lot more heat energy). The key is finding a good balance that has enough water to absorb heat, but not so much that it quenches your flamefront. I'd say 70/30 is probably a good starting point, but I'll defer to a professional tuner (70% methanol/ 30% water/volume, to be clear).
 
GEN 1 2008.
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djohns said:
Where are you from? Not to be a dick but some of your post are a little difficult to understand, and I'm not sure if English is a first language for you, since it seems like we need to keep repeating stuff over and over. Again I'm not trying to be a dick. I wouldn't say meth fail rate is high, but it has happened. Honestly you just need to stop worrying so much about this and thinking way too far into it. A built motor alone is plenty for a ko4 and even a gt series turbo as far as reliability goes if your not planning on high numbers, even with a stock mani.
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I'm worrying because I don't want to do it again ... I want something reliable and I read a lot and the problem come from an imbalance from the IM so it's why I want a JMF IM ... Stratified Tuned tell me WMI is good because the internal are also to hot and create problem internaly and the LSPS cause a lot of problem but I already know this problem ... so I just want to tweak our MZR engine to avoid all is weakness ... but I'm just asking maybe if I go FMIC over my CPE TMIC I will have better temp + better IM Balance ... just that will be good or adding WMI is really important to give a lot more reliability to our engine ... it's why I ask I want to order everything that I need for my rebuild ... and don't think about it when the car is in piece.
 
Speedhunter said:
GEN 1 2008.
[doublepost=1499888242][/doublepost]

I'm worrying because I don't want to do it again ... I want something reliable and I read a lot and the problem come from an imbalance from the IM so it's why I want a JMF IM ... Stratified Tuned tell me WMI is good because the internal are also to hot and create problem internaly and the LSPS cause a lot of problem but I already know this problem ... so I just want to tweak our MZR engine to avoid all is weakness ... but I'm just asking maybe if I go FMIC over my CPE TMIC I will have better temp + better IM Balance ... just that will be good or adding WMI is really important to give a lot more reliability to our engine ... it's why I ask I want to order everything that I need for my rebuild ... and don't think about it when the car is in piece.
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Just FYI, the JMF isn't nearly as balanced across the cylinders as Damond Motorsport's FoST Mani kit.
 
Speedhunter said:
Dont need to be hand made
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I only mention it because you said you wanted more balanced flow, and the JMF isn't that balanced (better than stock, but nowhere close to the FoST), so I thought you'd want to know. And piecing together piping from a universal piping kit and some couplers/clamps from siliconeintakes.com and a home-made bead-roller isn't that hard. I lost track of how many custom aspects of installations I've had to do with all my mods. It's extra work, but I enjoy it; and it goes with the modding territory, which I'll bet you already know. That's one of the main differences in my experience between OEM and aftermarket.
 
Speedhunter said:
here a good link : http://www.focusst.org/forum/speed-perf6rmanc3/25992-stock-intake-manifold-flow-data.html

JMF 7% vs FOST 2% but the JMF flow more ... and plug and play with FMIC kit on the market ... I think about it

Thanks sir
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Here was a better comparison, all on the same, calibrated bench for apples to apples comparisons, but Photobucket messed it all up:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/your-intake-manifold-you-199533/

BTW, the FoST flows phenomenally--way more than stock. It'll easily support 500+whp and then some. It also costs hundreds less and has like 1% flow variance between cylinders. If it were me, I'd go with the FoST. You're going to be losing your VTCS either way, so customization will already be needed. But do what ya want; it's your car, after all.
 
You make up a portion of the price difference with the cold pipe solution for fost mani, though. like...$200 or more of the difference, from what i hear.
 
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