"Silver Demon v2" build
- Thread starter VTMongoose
- Start date
Shouldnt this also be v3?
Nope. TOTD.
Yeah...technically. Geoff never got the Xona Rotor tune finished AFAIK. Least I have my tuning sorted even if it makes less power than the 6156 on a base map lol. Maybe v2.5? Actually maybe it should be 0.5 with this little baby turbo on it.
I've been trying to chase down a clunk I've been getting in the car. It's had it since the day I bought the car as far as I can remember. Move the car forward violently (ie pop the clutch), clunk. Put it in reverse, pop the clutch, clunk. Step on the gas hard, clunk. Hit the brake hard, clunk. It's a forward-backwards issue. No idea what it is, but it's definitely something that is switching between two states (forwards and backwards).
In pursuit of this issue, I removed the rear motor mount today and discovered something which did not fix the problem but I'm glad I fixed anyway:
In the background, you can see that the Damond RMM bolt does not even come close to filling the ID of my 2007 speed's transmission block bushing. On my 2012, I also had a black/black Damond mount, identical to the one this car came with, hence I never actually bothered swapping "my" mount from my pu into this car, I simply left it as-is (and donated my old RMM to someone). I'm pretty damn observant about stuff like this, thus I can say with relative certainty that the ID of the trans block on my pu matched the OD of the Damond RMM bolt. Here I would say there was at least a solid 2 mm of slop with my 2007's trans block. Now, in the foreground, I have the powerflex "race" bushing replacement including its metal sleeve, which you will notice fits the Damond RMM bolt perfectly with no play at all. Procrastinating about installing this little kit on my old car paid off.
http://powerflexusa.com/fordfocusmk...owerenginemountsmallBushing-pff19-1221-1.aspx
The only challenge is removing the old trans block bushing, which is glued in. I opted to take a small awl and hammer it around the outside of the trans block insert to release it, then used a socket and vice to press it out. This worked perfectly and no glue was left behind.
I then pressed the new parts in. This was very easy. I didn't even need to use their included lube.
Boom. Upgraded trans block insert. This definitely added some vibes, but it's not too bad.
After I put this in, I ended up having some significant misalignment between the RMM and the chassis (which was there since day 1, but ignored). This made installing the RMM hard to do and put the new powerflex bushings under a lot of compression. To alleviate this, I removed the battery box, loosened the trans mount bolts, then loosened the PMM to chassis bolts, then loosened the rear bolt of the RMM that goes into the subframe, then grabbed a crowbar, and, using the battery box mount/bracket that sits on top of the trans mount as leverage, applied force to the trans mount and moved the engine-trans combo towards the driver's side of the vehicle and retorqued all bolts. Now everything is in proper alignment.
Of course even after all of this, and checking my OCC mounting, all subframe bolts, steering rack bolts, and a whole bunch of other shit, I still have the clunk. Honestly, I almost think it's just flex in the subframe itself where the RMM bolts to the subframe, or something along those lines. I checked the LCA bushings and rechecked all my suspension work. Everything looks kosher.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Nope. TOTD.
Yeah...technically. Geoff never got the Xona Rotor tune finished AFAIK. Least I have my tuning sorted even if it makes less power than the 6156 on a base map lol. Maybe v2.5? Actually maybe it should be 0.5 with this little baby turbo on it.
I've been trying to chase down a clunk I've been getting in the car. It's had it since the day I bought the car as far as I can remember. Move the car forward violently (ie pop the clutch), clunk. Put it in reverse, pop the clutch, clunk. Step on the gas hard, clunk. Hit the brake hard, clunk. It's a forward-backwards issue. No idea what it is, but it's definitely something that is switching between two states (forwards and backwards).
In pursuit of this issue, I removed the rear motor mount today and discovered something which did not fix the problem but I'm glad I fixed anyway:
In the background, you can see that the Damond RMM bolt does not even come close to filling the ID of my 2007 speed's transmission block bushing. On my 2012, I also had a black/black Damond mount, identical to the one this car came with, hence I never actually bothered swapping "my" mount from my pu into this car, I simply left it as-is (and donated my old RMM to someone). I'm pretty damn observant about stuff like this, thus I can say with relative certainty that the ID of the trans block on my pu matched the OD of the Damond RMM bolt. Here I would say there was at least a solid 2 mm of slop with my 2007's trans block. Now, in the foreground, I have the powerflex "race" bushing replacement including its metal sleeve, which you will notice fits the Damond RMM bolt perfectly with no play at all. Procrastinating about installing this little kit on my old car paid off.
http://powerflexusa.com/fordfocusmk...owerenginemountsmallBushing-pff19-1221-1.aspx
The only challenge is removing the old trans block bushing, which is glued in. I opted to take a small awl and hammer it around the outside of the trans block insert to release it, then used a socket and vice to press it out. This worked perfectly and no glue was left behind.
I then pressed the new parts in. This was very easy. I didn't even need to use their included lube.
Boom. Upgraded trans block insert. This definitely added some vibes, but it's not too bad.
After I put this in, I ended up having some significant misalignment between the RMM and the chassis (which was there since day 1, but ignored). This made installing the RMM hard to do and put the new powerflex bushings under a lot of compression. To alleviate this, I removed the battery box, loosened the trans mount bolts, then loosened the PMM to chassis bolts, then loosened the rear bolt of the RMM that goes into the subframe, then grabbed a crowbar, and, using the battery box mount/bracket that sits on top of the trans mount as leverage, applied force to the trans mount and moved the engine-trans combo towards the driver's side of the vehicle and retorqued all bolts. Now everything is in proper alignment.
Of course even after all of this, and checking my OCC mounting, all subframe bolts, steering rack bolts, and a whole bunch of other shit, I still have the clunk. Honestly, I almost think it's just flex in the subframe itself where the RMM bolts to the subframe, or something along those lines. At any rate I'm highly confident that it's not a major problem. I checked the LCA bushings and rechecked all my suspension work. Everything looks kosher.
When re-aligning the mounts did you just support the engine by the oil pan? I had to really pull on mine to get the pmm aligned and wonder if it would be worth doing this as well. I also have the CPE stg 2 which would alleviate the issue you had above as it has both parts of the mount.
No need, leave it dangling by the PMM and TMM. They are designed to handle the full weight of the assembly. Notice that I only loosened the other two mounts. I didn't remove them.
ConeKiller
Motorhead
Nope. TOTD.
In pursuit of this issue, I removed the rear motor mount today and discovered something which did not fix the problem but I'm glad I fixed anyway:
In the background, you can see that the Damond RMM bolt does not even come close to filling the ID of my 2007 speed's transmission block bushing. On my 2012, I also had a black/black Damond mount, identical to the one this car came with, hence I never actually bothered swapping "my" mount from my pu into this car, I simply left it as-is (and donated my old RMM to someone). I'm pretty damn observant about stuff like this, thus I can say with relative certainty that the ID of the trans block on my pu matched the OD of the Damond RMM bolt. Here I would say there was at least a solid 2 mm of slop with my 2007's trans block. Now, in the foreground, I have the powerflex "race" bushing replacement including its metal sleeve, which you will notice fits the Damond RMM bolt perfectly with no play at all.
@xfeejayx
IMO- that clearance between the sleeve and the bolt shouldn't be an issue.
The friction between the stock metal sleeve (the one that's too large for the bolt) and the DM RMM sleeves will keep things from moving around - the bolt isn't being loaded in sheer, it's only providing clamping force for the two sets of bushings. It should be fine, as is.
Think of the square bolt holes in the TMM mount.
With the amount of torque being put through the RMM, it would still move, not the end of the world but something i would want to address.
It may or may not be an actual issue, but what I didn't show in the post above was that the inner edge of one of the bushings in the 2007's RMM was pretty chewed up from what was obviously some kind of movement, misalignment, or bushing deflection that shouldn't have been there. Contrast that with my 2012, where the bushings were still in mint condition after well over 50k miles. The TMM has a lot more surface area in contact with the chassis to act as friction and has four bolts torqued to 40 ft-lbs. The RMM bushings are only torqued to 25 ft-lbs.
ConeKiller
Motorhead
Seems low to me.
When loading two sleeves together like the rmm to bracket, I usually go ham, and get much torque as I can with a hand wrench.
You won't hurt the bushings by putting additional stress on the sleeves.
edited for fuckery.
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Farhan@DM
Approved Vendor
Negative on sleeves crushing trans piece. Shoulder bolt limits that. @VTMongoose did the right thing by replacing trans block bushing.
The nut we supply on the shoulder bolt is a nylon lock nut, and it isn't loaded in significant tension (all shear load). 25ft-lbs works fine. We only increased our recommendation to 60 in case the nut is getting reused for the 5th time.
The nut we supply on the shoulder bolt is a nylon lock nut, and it isn't loaded in significant tension (all shear load). 25ft-lbs works fine. We only increased our recommendation to 60 in case the nut is getting reused for the 5th time.
ConeKiller
Motorhead
welp, talking out of my ass, because I didn't realize that was a shoulder bolt fit to the ID of the sleeve.
Farhan@DM
Approved Vendor
Had the pleasure of driving this car at EMWNM Autocross this weekend. It was the most fun I've had behind a wheel this year. Aside from some minor heat issues due to the insane ambient temps, car ran like a champ. Thanks for the ride @VTMongoose, and thanks for the company.
After I got back from midwest meet, I changed the oil and when I was looking at my DW's, I realized the 2-3/32nds I had before midwest meet were now gone, so I ordered some new rubber. In the meantime one of my roommates and I autocrossed the car since his C5 Z06 is down.
As you can tell, I still need more seat time. My skills compared to last season are still really poor! Not looking far enough ahead, not judging slalom entry speeds correctly, not turning in early enough. Hopefully I can get another one in before the end of the season.
Yesterday I noticed our "activities" seemed to have a detrimental effect on the tire. Luckily, I had already mounted my new Nexen Sur4 255/40R17's on my 17x9 RPF1's. At $118 a corner on closeout, I expect these to serve me well for the money.
The "clunk" diaries continue... the clunking was getting worse, so I ended up pulling the RMM again. For sure my theory about the mount sliding around in the subframe causing the clunk was correct.
What you see are threads cut into the RMM from it slamming repeatedly against the bolt. I'm impressed with these home depot fasteners and nuts because they seem to be holding up to the abuse! I reinstalled everything and torqued to 65 ft-lbs again because I'm going to Maine for a week. When I get back, I want to either drill and tap for a larger fastener, or insert some kind of sleeve into the Damond RMM to take up the slack.
As you can tell, I still need more seat time. My skills compared to last season are still really poor! Not looking far enough ahead, not judging slalom entry speeds correctly, not turning in early enough. Hopefully I can get another one in before the end of the season.
Yesterday I noticed our "activities" seemed to have a detrimental effect on the tire. Luckily, I had already mounted my new Nexen Sur4 255/40R17's on my 17x9 RPF1's. At $118 a corner on closeout, I expect these to serve me well for the money.
The "clunk" diaries continue... the clunking was getting worse, so I ended up pulling the RMM again. For sure my theory about the mount sliding around in the subframe causing the clunk was correct.
What you see are threads cut into the RMM from it slamming repeatedly against the bolt. I'm impressed with these home depot fasteners and nuts because they seem to be holding up to the abuse! I reinstalled everything and torqued to 65 ft-lbs again because I'm going to Maine for a week. When I get back, I want to either drill and tap for a larger fastener, or insert some kind of sleeve into the Damond RMM to take up the slack.
If the threads in the frame are good i would not screw around with drilling it out and putting in a larger bolt, i would drill out the mount and put in a steel sleeve. The mount is aluminum so it should be relatively easy to drill, just make sure you use a drill press.
I forgot to document this here: Currently the threads in the "frame" (really just a nut that's welded to the topside of the subframe) are gone. The original bolt is an M12x1.25. The subframe nut which was helicoiled by one of the previous owners stripped during one of the RMM reinstallations because I set my torque wrench incorrectly, and the helicoil insert popped out. Currently the mount is being held in by a cut-to-length Grade 10.8 M12x1.75 bolt and Grade 8.8 M12x1.75 nut that is positioned above the subframe's nut and shaved down slightly to fit between the front SF nut and the PS rack. So far it's been holding for something like 2800 miles. But of course the noise continues to irritate everyone that drives the car and get worse.
ThatRed68
Greenie N00B Member
Is it possible to weld on the top nut or add some friction washers to the mating surfaces between the nut and bolt heads? IDK if they make the stupid ninja star looking ones that big. It sounds like an issue of not enough clamp load to avoid joint slip. It sounds like Mazda got away without a friction adder because they used a fixed nut.
In that case drill it all out and go up a bolt size, just tap the subframe nut at the larger size
My build is taking a slightly different direction at this point than I expected it to.
The car is now out of hibernation. First up this season was a little investigative work because I could smell exhaust and I had a feeling something was leaking from the manifold area. Initially I suspected the XS Power V3 had finally cracked, but turned out there was just surface rust everywhere from me spraying the IC during autocross. The reality was worse. One of my turbo to manifold studs had backed off on me during my last autocross and I thought nothing of it. Well, I took the manifold off, and...
Shit. No idea what happened here but those threads are done. The gasket between the manifold and the turbo was burned, explaining the exhaust leak. So, I took one of my K04's out of the basement and installed it while I was taking care of some other items...
First, I put my favorite brake pads, Hawk HP+, back on all 4 corners (the car came with EBC yellows, which I hated). In the process I removed a little bit of air from all four calipers. I forgot how great these pads really are. The response is very consistent regardless of temperature and the bite is hilarious...it takes almost no pedal to lock up the tires.
I also replaced the stock rear sway bar bushings (which were crumbling apart) with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, part number 9.5110R.
Finally I installed my latest capital investment, a pair of camber plates to replace the GC camber plates. And not just any plates, Vorshlag camber and caster adjustable plates! These are legit. Independent spring bearings for my 2.5" ID springs, spherical strut bearings, a ridiculous amount of adjustability, and superb build quality!
Buy here: https://vorshlag-store.com/products/ford-focus-rs-st-camber-caster-plates-perches
These necessitated some modifications using a 3 1/8" hole saw.
They were already set at maximum caster out of the box, which I left as-is. I added some camber, tightened them up, and took the car to the alignment shop. The alignment man and I discussed the intended usage of the car and came up with some toe settings and camber settings to start with. The caster is +5.0 degrees each side now, camber is +2.15 degrees static, and there's 1/16" toe in. I have the option to add more camber than current, but wanted to err on the side of "not enough" for now.
End result? Well, I have an autocross school tomorrow where I'll find out what this thing can really do, but so far on the street, it feels substantially better. The camber plates, despite being solid metal, with no teflon or bushings anywhere, made the ride more comfortable and less noisy than stock plates. There's more steering feel, and gone is a weird tendency the car had to sort of "settle twice" when turning into a corner. The steering response is even better than before. It's pretty nuts how fiercely you can turn in with this car, and it just grips! The guy who did the alignment road-tested it a few times and said "it gave me chills taking corners in this car". I don't know what to say, other than, that is this car's defining characteristic and one I am very thankful it has after years of working at it!
Finally today I dialed in a quick 93 map on the K04 for the autocross tomorrow. I took my last log and overlayed it with one of my later BNR S3 93 octane logs. The hardware is identical between these two logs other than the turbos.
The K04 really is king for low RPM work (autocross). 20 psi arrives at 2500 RPM's in 4th. Admittedly, I already miss the substantial midrange torque of the BNR S3 on the street, which is tons of fun and very impressive. The S3 log above was taken on a hot day, and on a cooler day, the differences between the two turbos would have been much larger in terms of both torque and power. But at the end of the day, the K04 suits this car better. Its quick response better matches the quick response of the car's steering and brakes. I love how effortlessly it can tow me out of really tight turns at low RPM's without planting my foot and praying for it to spool. To this end, I'll be parting ways with my trusty S3. The S3 has been a rock-solid reliable brother to me for years now. This was the third car it served on and now it'll be going to a 4th to continue melting tires in 3rd gear.
The car is now out of hibernation. First up this season was a little investigative work because I could smell exhaust and I had a feeling something was leaking from the manifold area. Initially I suspected the XS Power V3 had finally cracked, but turned out there was just surface rust everywhere from me spraying the IC during autocross. The reality was worse. One of my turbo to manifold studs had backed off on me during my last autocross and I thought nothing of it. Well, I took the manifold off, and...
Shit. No idea what happened here but those threads are done. The gasket between the manifold and the turbo was burned, explaining the exhaust leak. So, I took one of my K04's out of the basement and installed it while I was taking care of some other items...
First, I put my favorite brake pads, Hawk HP+, back on all 4 corners (the car came with EBC yellows, which I hated). In the process I removed a little bit of air from all four calipers. I forgot how great these pads really are. The response is very consistent regardless of temperature and the bite is hilarious...it takes almost no pedal to lock up the tires.
I also replaced the stock rear sway bar bushings (which were crumbling apart) with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, part number 9.5110R.
Finally I installed my latest capital investment, a pair of camber plates to replace the GC camber plates. And not just any plates, Vorshlag camber and caster adjustable plates! These are legit. Independent spring bearings for my 2.5" ID springs, spherical strut bearings, a ridiculous amount of adjustability, and superb build quality!
Buy here: https://vorshlag-store.com/products/ford-focus-rs-st-camber-caster-plates-perches
These necessitated some modifications using a 3 1/8" hole saw.
They were already set at maximum caster out of the box, which I left as-is. I added some camber, tightened them up, and took the car to the alignment shop. The alignment man and I discussed the intended usage of the car and came up with some toe settings and camber settings to start with. The caster is +5.0 degrees each side now, camber is +2.15 degrees static, and there's 1/16" toe in. I have the option to add more camber than current, but wanted to err on the side of "not enough" for now.
End result? Well, I have an autocross school tomorrow where I'll find out what this thing can really do, but so far on the street, it feels substantially better. The camber plates, despite being solid metal, with no teflon or bushings anywhere, made the ride more comfortable and less noisy than stock plates. There's more steering feel, and gone is a weird tendency the car had to sort of "settle twice" when turning into a corner. The steering response is even better than before. It's pretty nuts how fiercely you can turn in with this car, and it just grips! The guy who did the alignment road-tested it a few times and said "it gave me chills taking corners in this car". I don't know what to say, other than, that is this car's defining characteristic and one I am very thankful it has after years of working at it!
Finally today I dialed in a quick 93 map on the K04 for the autocross tomorrow. I took my last log and overlayed it with one of my later BNR S3 93 octane logs. The hardware is identical between these two logs other than the turbos.
The K04 really is king for low RPM work (autocross). 20 psi arrives at 2500 RPM's in 4th. Admittedly, I already miss the substantial midrange torque of the BNR S3 on the street, which is tons of fun and very impressive. The S3 log above was taken on a hot day, and on a cooler day, the differences between the two turbos would have been much larger in terms of both torque and power. But at the end of the day, the K04 suits this car better. Its quick response better matches the quick response of the car's steering and brakes. I love how effortlessly it can tow me out of really tight turns at low RPM's without planting my foot and praying for it to spool. To this end, I'll be parting ways with my trusty S3. The S3 has been a rock-solid reliable brother to me for years now. This was the third car it served on and now it'll be going to a 4th to continue melting tires in 3rd gear.
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Those camber/caster plates are mighty sexy.
Throw some big face washers on those RSB bushing straps, otherwise they will start to bend from flex. You will know what I mean eventually.
I'm glad someone else loves k04 low end torque, there is a reason we all fell in love with the car and own one.
While revisiting the last few posts on your thread, I too have a front end clunk that won't go away. It only happens when I cut the wheel all the way. I have my suspicion that it could be FSB/McPherson related, but have a while before I can get under the car and confirm it.
Throw some big face washers on those RSB bushing straps, otherwise they will start to bend from flex. You will know what I mean eventually.
I'm glad someone else loves k04 low end torque, there is a reason we all fell in love with the car and own one.
While revisiting the last few posts on your thread, I too have a front end clunk that won't go away. It only happens when I cut the wheel all the way. I have my suspicion that it could be FSB/McPherson related, but have a while before I can get under the car and confirm it.