A discussion on mitigating engine bay heat

Nliiitend1 said:
Yeah something weird is happening with that link... When I came back to this thread today it just took me to the homepage of Amazon, but then leaving and coming back shows the correct link again. Weird.
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Amazon is stalking...
 
Code Monkey said:
Well it is a picture from a plane, they usually have more space in the nose.
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KorffIntakeDuct.jpg

The picture is is a cross section of wing but the principal would also apply if the radiator (any heat exchanger) was mounted in the nose. Duct work in the wing comes from liquid cooled engine radiators and oil coolers back in the WWII era to help reduce external drag on the aircraft.

There is some other good and applicable information in the picture to consider though. The two comments about the ducts being sealed is a key point to consider in any cooling system. I've noticed on my Pu there is no foam to seal the gaps around the radiator to ensure the air go through the radiator core. My Land Cruiser and the wif's Merc both have foam to seal gaps around the radiator and condenser just for that reason.

Coming from the air cooled world of aviation ensuring all gaps are plugged and gaps sealed in some fashion is very important as part of the "cooling system". Think of the engine in the pic below as the radiator in a car or the pic above. For the system to function optimally the air must flow through through the engine cylinders (radiator) and maintain the pressure differential, high in front of and low behind. The second pic below was stolen from a Miata forum thread which illustrates the same principal of ensuring airflow goes from the grill to the core of the radiator.

188945_engine_airflow_baffles_sm.jpg

front_rad_ducting.gif

Once you have the OEM tray and hood seal reinstalled take a close look around the radiator, A/C condenser and your FMIC and plug the gaps with good quality foam or other material to ensure the air goes through each core. All this assumes your IC, condenser and radiator are clean both internally and externally and don't have any fin surface area blocked with bugs and such.
 
Easter Bunny said:
since primary season is almost over, its worth pointing out that the plastic cardboard that most political signs are made out of is a great material for making air blocking panels in the front of the car
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Passenger side=red Drivers side =blue

Oppisite from Nautical applications where Port is red
 
tarnumf said:
Trailer park style heatshielding..

View attachment 2338
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Is that aluminum foil?

I found this regarding that for downpipes

Aluminum melts at around 650 degrees celsius and any old tin foil you encounter is going to be 1000 grade aluminum, meaning pretty much nothing in it other than aluminum. You don't wanna use this stuff as a heat shield for your exhaust. It would work well as a heat shield in other applications, but your exhaust is something it is poorly suited for.
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Sent from my Nexus 6P
 
CmdrShepard said:
I found this regarding that for downpipes
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Yeah, it's true, exhaust manifold can reach 650 C, glowing dark red.
But downpipe is colder and it's over a couple layers of fiberglass wrap, so I think it will hold up.

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I know I'm a month late to this thread but like @Maisonvi; I too saw temps in the mid 230's on my Gen 1 a few times when tracking on a 90 degree day at Watkins Glen. This was with all shrouds and such installed also using a stock boost tune for the class. Something could have been wrong with the car (car is long gone) and/or it was the hot ambient temps that helped it along. I would have backed off earlier but I was enjoying the back and forth with another driver and didn't notice my temps till the dashhawk yelled at me.
 
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