A discussion on mitigating engine bay heat

  • Thread starter Thread starter Maisonvi
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Everything. Care to point out what you're referring to?

The base of the windshield has a higher pressure than the engine bay when the car is moving. The rear weatherstrip should only be removed on drag cars where you sit in the staging lane.

You should put the understray back on.

Turbo blanket, coating on the manifold and some heat shields around the turbo will help too.

Pretty sure you are fmic in which case you should make sure that any radiator shrouding that was removed for the installation of the piping is modified so that in can be replaced.

The idea being that the stock configuration is pretty well designed and the removal of a bunch of small parts from the stock setup can add up to a big difference in temps.
 
I thought about doing hood vents when I finally get my hood repainted this summer, but I also came across this, wonder how effective it would be evacuating the radiator heat. No need for a flap, just cut a couple of holes in the skid tray.
 

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Re: the Rockauto replacement part:

Just know that it's made of signifantly flimsier material than the OE one (or at least every ~$35-45 one I've seen from Rockauto thus far is).

I'm pretty sure it is also lacking any sort of metal reinforcement on the trailing edge (like the OE one has).

Not necessarily sure if it will be a problem or mean that it might get chewed up any faster, but it's something I wanted to point out.
 
Well, this current one that myself and raider just got, dose in fact have the reinforcement beam and surprisingly seemed fairly stout. Side note this is the Doorman brand, came with 9 coated 10mm bolts and two pop rivet things( that i don't need or just didn't know where they went.)

I was really surprised with it. seemed stiff, only time will tell
 
Looks like I'll be throwing the undertray back on both of my cars...anyone have any idea sizes of hardware needed or where to get it from?
 
Get everything at RockAuto or hit up the dealer or Lowes not sure on spec.

I have both undertrays already, I wish Rock Auto just sold a hardware kit for it haha...refresh my memory, is it mostly bolts or stupid plastic push-pin things that hold it in place?
 
fuck those shitty push pin fuckers, i have been missing one for the last 30,000 miles. fucker is bent too open to slide back in the hole and i refuse to buy one.
[doublepost=1462930491][/doublepost]im pretty happy right now at all the people who have been convinced to put stock parts on their cars in the search for more performance
 
im pretty happy right now at all the people who have been convinced to put stock parts on their cars in the search for more performance

This is kinda funny, and very true. For me when I removed it heat wasn't an issue, and dropping shit in the engine bay was. Now Im not working on it as much and its getting hot. Priorities I guess.

I do like what this thread has brought out information wise.
 
fuck those shitty push pin fuckers, i have been missing one for the last 30,000 miles. fucker is bent too open to slide back in the hole and i refuse to buy one.
[doublepost=1462930491][/doublepost]im pretty happy right now at all the people who have been convinced to put stock parts on their cars in the search for more performance

Temps are not that big for me, it is the errant random crap on the roads that could offer a window to the oil pan or trans case that I figured 35 bucks with hardware aint that bad if it helps at all. It still sucks ass and I bet the oil filter opening is still off-center and will need to be cut out, but whatever.
 
I can tell you that the oil filter hole is definitely off. been nice if dorman would have looked at that and adjusted.
 
Well then it would not be like OEM! Just gives me another reason to use my air tools to cut it.
 
I never had one so i wouldn't have known. Myself would remove the tray anyway for an oil change just for inspection and cleaning purposes.
 
Yeah, I did that for about 5 years. Over that 5 years, 1/2 the bolts fell out, or the nuts up top broke off. The plastic push-pin dealios got caked in sand and dirt and became near impossible to open. So I took the thing off. No ragrats. Not even a letter. But I have come across truck tires, work boots, cats/possum/dog/birds that were dead in the road that the subframe had a stern talking to. The coffee mug was the last straw. Not looking for performance, just a chance to not work on my motor because I hit something,
 
Just curious, where do the push pin go. i held on to them as i never had one under the car, but didn't see a spot for them
 
Just curious, where do the push pin go. i held on to them as i never had one under the car, but didn't see a spot for them

I think it is the two metal covered tabs in the front. Bolts in the 3 middle, pins on outside tabs that got up and over a bumper plastic thing.

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I used 5 bolts across there. The 3 bolt hole in the middle line up with the front air dam, the two front metal tabs i used bolts in the kit. I wonder if they give you the pops as an option
 
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