andale927's PTE 5558 Gen 2 Build (Built Engine)

[JohnnyTightlips]

I thought he meant dump tube so I was going with that lol. I have the Kozmic DP and it fits great on MS3 Juan.

 

[andale927]

Ah okay, I actually thought DTP made a downpipe as well, but I was wrong. I contacted Kozmic today and they said a batch is shipping out tomorrow. Really hope mine is in that batch lol.

 

[anthony]

@andale927 On his ig looks like he makes hood dumps

 

[andale927]

Now that the ambient temps are dropping there is a pretty big difference in how much boost that my setup can maintain at higher RPM. The only difference in variables between these two runs is outside temperature (other than recently added WOT box and increased rev limiter):



Just thought it was interesting. Is this just the improvement in pressure ratio because of denser air at the turbo inlet or could there be something else at play?

 

[Easter Bunny]

65f is called boost season for a reason. Low enough for power high enough for traction

 

[andale927]

Since I have no real progress to share, here are some pics:

Picked up a Ramfab 4" Intake:

Finally got the MV-R in the mail yesterday, feels like a pretty high quality piece:

Put the 17.40 PSI spring set in it, hopefully won't need to go any higher.

And finally picked up the ceramic coated parts today:

I like how it looks way better than the original finish.

Turbine housing:

Also wrapped the downpipe, if you ignore the mess I think it came out okay:

If I can catch up on PC builds during the week I should be able to do the swap on the weekend.

 

[andale927]

Sorry for the late update, everything had been working against me. Finished the install a few weeks ago, then was in Germany for a week for work... Kinda hard to take pics of the turbo, but here are a few pics of the engine bay after I did a little cleanup. Still not happy with the PI lines so I'll probably re-route them at some point.

Then I had to fix this downpipe situation so I could start tuning without getting too much attention lol:

After the first revision I immediately ruined a rotor from neglecting regular maintenance lol, so that was another setback of a few days to get another rotor in...

Overall I am extremely satisfied with the 5558 even though I am not done tuning yet. It feels like it spools sooner than the 7163 and it definitely has more top end. I'll probably finalize the tune tomorrow when it stops raining and post some v dyno comparisons, but here's a sneak peak:

Edit: The above is with 10.5deg timing at 6k rpm and 12deg at 6.5k. Taking it easy until the boost map is finalized, because I might be getting close to the limits of an aeromotive 325 and 630cc aux injectors.

 

[Sho]

The aeromotive should have more head room.

I was able to do this on an aeromotive stealth 325 (gen 1 pte 5862). But with larger PI injectors. I ran out of pump just over 600whp

 

[andale927]

The aeromotive should have more head room.

I was able to do this on an aeromotive stealth 325 (gen 1 pte 5862). But with larger PI injectors. I ran out of pump just over 600whp

View attachment 12242

Yeah it seems like fueling is not an issue, I had a Walbro 450 ready to drop in, but I think I've about maxed the turbo and I am at the absolute limit of the PI, with a little bit of headroom on the DI for open loop fuel correction.

As promised here's the final power revision:

I did end up taking care of the lean spike at 6k, smoothed/increased the boost, and added a little more timing, but I kept spinning 4th gear with the added timing so the log is a previous revision. This log didn't seem to have any spin, but the numbers are a little high so take it with a grain of salt... I'll be hitting up the same mustang dyno I used for the 7163 in a week or two, my guess is ~550whp.

All in all the thing feels insane now and what I imagined a BT built motor speed to feel like, AND I STILL HAVE MY SPOOL. The turbo is definitely a bit out of it's efficiency range. I have a meth injection kit sitting around so I will be adding a DO1 nozzle pre-turbo and a D03 pre-intercooler. Hoping that this will reduce the pressure drop through the intercooler and drop the effective pressure ratio at the compressor a little bit.

 

[Clintb3astwood]

Sweeet sweet baby jesus, been following this thread for a bit and its impressive man!

 

[andale927]

Thanks!

I strongly suspect that there is wheel spin, so let's reserve judgement for now. I have a Dyno scheduled this upcoming Saturday, so we'll see where it's really sitting!

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[andale927]

I guess I'm gonna keep updating this thread even though the build is somewhat complete. Always doing something and I like to share

Get ready for a long ass post and a shit ton of pics.

Edit: Also never posted this video from last october:

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Decided to add some rice, since the rear end of my speed was plain jane and didn't match the rest of the car:
After sanding 600 grit:


After VHT + 2k clear:


After wetsanding 1500grit:



After compound + polish:



Then installed on the car:


Then I decided to get the car paint corrected by Chicago Auto Pros, the years of abuse hadn't treated my paint too well:


And I recently picked up this pretty cool 10Hz GPS, supposed to be as accurate as a VBOX:
https://dragymotorsports.com/

Did a 60-100 pull on spring pressure:


Then did another one at FULL POWER lmao:


Other than that right now I'm waiting on a new set of wheels and rubber and for the autocross/HPDE season to start:
Front: Konig Dekagram 18x8.5 +35
Rear: Konig Dekagram 18x8.5 +45
Toyo R888Rs 245/40/R18

Also thinking of picking up some hardware from Ground Control so I can increase the spring rate in the rear a bit, the stock KW springs are much too soft.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

A couple of notes about kw's, since I have upgraded springs on both the front and the back.

I have 500lb springs on all 4 corners, it is a firm ride but not teeth chattering. The higher in spring rate you go, the smaller your adjustment window will be on the KW's. I wouldnt put more than linear 500lb springs in the front or rear. (KW uses 400lb springs in the front, and I think 250~500lb progressive in the rear)

There is a bit of squish in the front suspension, that is the hydrobushings and not necessarily the coilovers.

Are you feeling a lot of squat when you accelerate or take datalogs?

 

[andale927]

A couple of notes about kw's, since I have upgraded springs on both the front and the back.

I have 500lb springs on all 4 corners, it is a firm ride but not teeth chattering. The higher in spring rate you go, the smaller your adjustment window will be on the KW's. I wouldnt put more than linear 500lb springs in the front or rear. (KW uses 400lb springs in the front, and I think 250~500lb progressive in the rear)

There is a bit of squish in the front suspension, that is the hydrobushings and not necessarily the coilovers.

Are you feeling a lot of squat when you accelerate or take datalogs?

Thanks for the advice! I am pretty noob when it comes to suspension setup.

I feel a huge amount of squat under acceleration, which is why I'm making the change. Also hoping that I can keep my oversteer characteristic with more negative camber in the rear with the increased spring rate. Currently running -1 degree in the back and I'd like to increase it to -1.5 degrees to more comfortably fit slightly wider tires. I've already rolled my rear fenders and really don't want to pull them more than I already have.

I'm planning on going with 500 Lbs/in in the rear and leaving the front as-is. I remember reading somewhere that 500lbs/in is about the maximum spring that the unmodified KW shock could handle.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Ok, here goes....

One benefit about buying hardware to convert the rear to a more common size is the huge market for springs. I maxed out the rear KW springs and still wanted to raise it up another 1/4" or more.

If the front is firm enough for you now, I would suggest 400lb springs in the rear. It will still keep the rear slightly oversprung for nice handling without being too stiff.

Let me explain what I mean about the adjustment window on V3's. I will use the front end as an example since it's more apples to apples for you and me. When I jumped from the KW supplied 400lb springs to the 500lb Hypercoils, I had to adjust the compression to a firmer setting to keep up with the spring. Sounds reasonable... except that it wasnt 1 click, it was about 3 or 4. Any setting lower than that would feel like a slightly blown strut since the spring would be firmer than the damper valving. From a durability standpoint the dampers can definitely handle 500lb springs on all 4 corners, but you wont be able to go softer before getting that blown shock sensation. Also you will have a limited range to firm it up before you hit the max setting. So that's what I mean by a smaller adjustment window.

As far as the squat you are experiencing, you can try lifting the rear if possible to give you more mechanical anti squat. This of course is done by changing the angle of the rear trailing arm as its lifted. Firmer springs will help, but I dont think you will need to go up to 500lb. As is, I am soon going to swap my rear 500 to 400 springs.

One thing to note before dropping money on springs and hardware, the "squat" you may be "feeling" is probably front end lift. Up until 6 months ago I had a tr10 FMIC, I swapped back to a TMIC and did some sealing in the front end, and have reduced a good amount of lift. The lift I was getting felt like squat when accelerating, except the steering wheel would get very VERY soft, and the front tires would get unsettled very easily at speeds over 60mph. I am telling you this because of the big hood scoop you have, and the replacement smiley grill. Any air fed through the fenders and hood scoop, force air into your engine bay and pressurize it. This causes the air to leave through the bottom of your engine bay and lift the nose of the car up. If so, I bet you have a ton of front end nose dive or "squish" when you hit the brakes on the highway. Not only is this extremely dangerous from a handling perspective, but it doesnt allow air to pass through your radiator or front mount and shits on your cooling capability. If this is the case, you may want to address it first before revising your springs.

 

[andale927]

Ok, here goes....

One benefit about buying hardware to convert the rear to a more common size is the huge market for springs. I maxed out the rear KW springs and still wanted to raise it up another 1/4" or more.

If the front is firm enough for you now, I would suggest 400lb springs in the rear. It will still keep the rear slightly oversprung for nice handling without being too stiff.

Let me explain what I mean about the adjustment window on V3's. I will use the front end as an example since it's more apples to apples for you and me. When I jumped from the KW supplied 400lb springs to the 500lb Hypercoils, I had to adjust the compression to a firmer setting to keep up with the spring. Sounds reasonable... except that it wasnt 1 click, it was about 3 or 4. Any setting lower than that would feel like a slightly blown strut since the spring would be firmer than the damper valving. From a durability standpoint the dampers can definitely handle 500lb springs on all 4 corners, but you wont be able to go softer before getting that blown shock sensation. Also you will have a limited range to firm it up before you hit the max setting. So that's what I mean by a smaller adjustment window.

As far as the squat you are experiencing, you can try lifting the rear if possible to give you more mechanical anti squat. This of course is done by changing the angle of the rear trailing arm as its lifted. Firmer springs will help, but I dont think you will need to go up to 500lb. As is, I am soon going to swap my rear 500 to 400 springs.

One thing to note before dropping money on springs and hardware, the "squat" you may be "feeling" is probably front end lift. Up until 6 months ago I had a tr10 FMIC, I swapped back to a TMIC and did some sealing in the front end, and have reduced a good amount of lift. The lift I was getting felt like squat when accelerating, except the steering wheel would get very VERY soft, and the front tires would get unsettled very easily at speeds over 60mph. I am telling you this because of the big hood scoop you have, and the replacement smiley grill. Any air fed through the fenders and hood scoop, force air into your engine bay and pressurize it. This causes the air to leave through the bottom of your engine bay and lift the nose of the car up. If so, I bet you have a ton of front end nose dive or "squish" when you hit the brakes on the highway. Not only is this extremely dangerous from a handling perspective, but it doesnt allow air to pass through your radiator or front mount and shits on your cooling capability. If this is the case, you may want to address it first before revising your springs.

Thanks for the advice! I took it and ordered the ground control kit with 400lbs/in springs. I think you are onto something with the front end lift as well, but haven't had a chance to figure out what I'm going to do about it. I already get vaporlock from my aux rail getting too hot when I idle too long.


Anyway, I went ahead and bit the bullet. Purchased a standalone boost controller and 4 port EBCS. The controller is the Cortex by SIRHC Labs.
Pretty simple looking kit:


Install wasn't too bad either. Lately I've been obsessing with sleeving all wiring and making everything plug and play lol:


Installed it in the glovebox and pulled the wires along the rear firewall, same path as the WOT box:


The TPS signal and Tach signals were cake, but the vehicle speed was a bit of a pain in the ass. Ended up purchasing an adapter they make that runs off of an ABS sensor. Unfortunately that didn't work because we have a weird Magneto-Resistive type of wheel speed sensor. There is a 10.8v bias on the signal wire, and the AC component is superimposed on top of it.

Ended up getting it to work by adding a 0.1 uF capacitor to block the DC component. Not too bad, but wish they had it in their instructions. Looks kind of shitty and hopefully a lead doesn't break, but it worked:


Now comes the fun stuff:
It detects the gear you're in by taking the ratio between the tach signal and the WSS:


Once you log all the gears, you can enter the ratios:


Voila, gear detection (blue line):


There is a bit of noise, but I think I can fix it by increasing the scale to increase the difference in ratio between gears 4-6.

The software itself is super cool. Up to 6 different profiles that you can easily change on the fly.


It also has full PID closed loop functionality, on a per gear basis. Which is super sick:


It even has 2 additional outputs that you could use as a progressive meth controller.



Anyways, I also installed the 4 port EBCS and swapped out my WG spring for a 5.80PSI spring. Not sure if I'll be able to hit 36 PSI with it, but I can always increase it. I'm running a control frequency of 18Hz on the solenoid to get the maximum usable linear range on the solenoid. Plus with the lower frequency the WG sounds insane when the EBCS comes in lol.

An EWG on a 6psi spring on a built motor speed is pretty hilarious. Super loud and I don't go anywhere lol... kinda like a civic with a fartcan. Being able to hook 1st gear is a pretty nice feeling.

I've only just started the tuning process, but it seems like I have enough resolution to do what I need to do. In 3rd gear 40% WGDC correlates to about 20psi boost on the 5.8 psi spring.

I'm planning on using my new 10hz GPS in conjunction to tune every single gear. I already started with 1st gear and discovered anything over 8 PSI yields a slower 15mph - 35mph time. Just switching from a 3 port to a 4 port and lighter spring improved it from ~2.4s to 1.7s. The weather is still pretty cold, so I can probably increase boost a bit in the summer months with more traction.

Sorry this post turned way too long. Overall I'm insanely happy with it and excited to be able to hook. I can also get much more correlation between throttle position and boost than I could on a 3 port w/ OEM boost control. This will be perfect for autocross... If it ever happens with this covid-19 BS.

I'm probably gonna start a new thread for the EBCS, because I think it deserves it. I'll probably still update this with it as well though.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Thanks for the advice! I took it and ordered the ground control kit with 400lbs/in springs. I think you are onto something with the front end lift as well, but haven't had a chance to figure out what I'm going to do about it. I already get vaporlock from my aux rail getting too hot when I idle too long.


Anyway, I went ahead and bit the bullet. Purchased a standalone boost controller and 4 port EBCS. The controller is the Cortex by SIRHC Labs.
Pretty simple looking kit:

Install wasn't too bad either. Lately I've been obsessing with sleeving all wiring and making everything plug and play lol:

Installed it in the glovebox and pulled the wires along the rear firewall, same path as the WOT box:

The TPS signal and Tach signals were cake, but the vehicle speed was a bit of a pain in the ass. Ended up purchasing an adapter they make that runs off of an ABS sensor. Unfortunately that didn't work because we have a weird Magneto-Resistive type of wheel speed sensor. There is a 10.8v bias on the signal wire, and the AC component is superimposed on top of it.

Ended up getting it to work by adding a 0.1 uF capacitor to block the DC component. Not too bad, but wish they had it in their instructions. Looks kind of shitty and hopefully a lead doesn't break, but it worked:

Now comes the fun stuff:
It detects the gear you're in by taking the ratio between the tach signal and the WSS:
View attachment 13664

Once you log all the gears, you can enter the ratios:
View attachment 13665

Voila, gear detection (blue line):
View attachment 13666

There is a bit of noise, but I think I can fix it by increasing the scale to increase the difference in ratio between gears 4-6.

The software itself is super cool. Up to 6 different profiles that you can easily change on the fly.
View attachment 13667

It also has full PID closed loop functionality, on a per gear basis. Which is super sick:
View attachment 13668

It even has 2 additional outputs that you could use as a progressive meth controller.

View attachment 13669

Anyways, I also installed the 4 port EBCS and swapped out my WG spring for a 5.80PSI spring. Not sure if I'll be able to hit 36 PSI with it, but I can always increase it. I'm running a control frequency of 18Hz on the solenoid to get the maximum usable linear range on the solenoid. Plus with the lower frequency the WG sounds insane when the EBCS comes in lol.

An EWG on a 6psi spring on a built motor speed is pretty hilarious. Super loud and I don't go anywhere lol... kinda like a civic with a fartcan. Being able to hook 1st gear is a pretty nice feeling.

I've only just started the tuning process, but it seems like I have enough resolution to do what I need to do. In 3rd gear 40% WGDC correlates to about 20psi boost on the 5.8 psi spring.

I'm planning on using my new 10hz GPS in conjunction to tune every single gear. I already started with 1st gear and discovered anything over 8 PSI yields a slower 15mph - 35mph time. Just switching from a 3 port to a 4 port and lighter spring improved it from ~2.4s to 1.7s. The weather is still pretty cold, so I can probably increase boost a bit in the summer months with more traction.

Sorry this post turned way too long. Overall I'm insanely happy with it and excited to be able to hook. I can also get much more correlation between throttle position and boost than I could on a 3 port. This will be perfect for autocross... If it ever happens with this covid-19 BS.

I'm probably gonna start a new thread for the EBCS, because I think it deserves it. I'll probably still update this with it as well though.

First few pics don't seem to work. excited to see this work out.

 

[andale927]

Figured I would do a minor update on the 4 port tuning. I've been extremely busy and its taking a pretty long time to get everything dialed in where I want it.
1st - 5 -> 10 PSI
2nd - 15 -> 17 PSI
3rd - 25 -> 29 PSI
4th - 32 -> 36 PSI

I can definitely still add a little bit more power in 1st - 3rd gear without wheel spin. The biggest struggle I am having is matching the spool I get with a heavier wastegate spring, which is kind of un-intuitive. If I command enough WGDC to match 3-port spool, then I get major overshoot (40-45 PSI). I'll continue working on it and update.




Other recent changes:
1) Replaced my FPR with the same model with a smaller valve seat, got rid of the return line vibration.
2) Got the GC kit installed, really like the kit. Think I will buy a 6" 450lb/in spring set to get the ride height where I want it.



Also took some smexy pics after getting the car paint corrected:

 

[irissanen]

Yeah it seems like fueling is not an issue, I had a Walbro 450 ready to drop in, but I think I've about maxed the turbo and I am at the absolute limit of the PI, with a little bit of headroom on the DI for open loop fuel correction.

As promised here's the final power revision:

I did end up taking care of the lean spike at 6k, smoothed/increased the boost, and added a little more timing, but I kept spinning 4th gear with the added timing so the log is a previous revision. This log didn't seem to have any spin, but the numbers are a little high so take it with a grain of salt... I'll be hitting up the same mustang dyno I used for the 7163 in a week or two, my guess is ~550whp.

All in all the thing feels insane now and what I imagined a BT built motor speed to feel like, AND I STILL HAVE MY SPOOL. The turbo is definitely a bit out of it's efficiency range. I have a meth injection kit sitting around so I will be adding a DO1 nozzle pre-turbo and a D03 pre-intercooler. Hoping that this will reduce the pressure drop through the intercooler and drop the effective pressure ratio at the compressor a little bit.

Hello,

Would you mind sharing the log file of this run in .csv format? What kind of duty cycle are you running with those 875cc PI injectors?

 

[andale927]

Hello,

Would you mind sharing the log file of this run in .csv format? What kind of duty cycle are you running with those 875cc PI injectors?

I couldn't find the exact log, but here's another earlier log attached. I am hitting about 80% duty cycle on the PI injectors at peak power.