Building for the road course...again

Been working through my prep list this week. Track on Sunday.
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One of my absolute favorite parts of this car. I bought the setup 5 years ago and it’s been through some serious racing. One of the best investments I’ve made and would make again anytime.

Not sure why but this picture gives me such joy. This is the first time the car has seen fresh rotors since 2024 lol. Last season was all on used rotors I had.

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Cobalt racing brakes have come onboard as a sponsor so their decal will be going on the car soon. I hate making these decisions as I am no good at aesthetic things lol. Hopefully I pick some good placement. Maybe I will ask you all for some help like last time
 
Sunday was an absolutely beautiful day. 12c and sunny. Felt warm. Went out for 3 sessions. This is the first time this track has seen any action this year and it rained all week so we were starting with less than ideal track surface.

Found some time rather quick. The car is working. Engine seems to make nice straight line speed. Not sure how. More throttle commitment? Carrying more speed. Something.

Brakes are mental. Haven’t had to really get into the pedal. Honestly can move braking points up everywhere.

On the main straight, I tell myself I am not braking until I see shift lights in 4th gear. We are getting there lol. Shift lights start. I can push it for sure. Not much, but it all matters. Rev limit is 8500 and we are seeing 8400rpm just grabbing the brakes. Maxing out 4th gear is a little new. Better exit outta the last corner and some late brake action.

Front end bites hard. Very hard. We do have some roll up front. The spring rate stagger is helping that. It’s not great but the grip is strong.

Lap time so far 1:13.5. I think I went that fast last season. Maybe a touch faster.

We were on rear tires from 2024, and front tires from 3 or 4 races last year. Good enough!

Oil leak from hell on the driver side. Seems like valve cover gasket. Never seen an engine piss so much oil. The mess was massive. All the valve cover nuts were very loose plus I did not RTV the 4 corners like you’re supposed to. Hopefully that’s all it is lol.
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Noore iconic duo than a Honda and a leaky valve cover lol

You had me nervous in the middle. I thought you were setting it up for a big off
 
The day went very well minus my oil leak lol. A Camaro trans am race car popped an oil line and hosed down the track. Dude did not pull off like you’re supposed to.

I hit the oil slick at full kill. Video to come lol. It was a lot less bad than it could’ve been. It was a bad spot on the track to go off. Wall on one side, open field on the other side. Thankfully my car went to the open field side lol. I saw the oil slick and was prepared by opening up the steering wheel. Saved me!


In other news I’m struggling to find a machine shop. Nobody has a k20 torque plate. So dumb
 
do you actually need a torque plate? for example you dont need one on the speed due to the threads on the head studs being below the piston in the block
 
do you actually need a torque plate? for example you dont need one on the speed due to the threads on the head studs being below the piston in the block
It’s about 1 to 1.5 thou of distortion. CP wants 3 thou P2W. I have special pistons that want 1.5thou

Short answer? If you wanna do it right. Yes. Torque plate.


Being NA, tighter the better until the piston seizes in the bore.

I found a Canadian source for a torque plate. It’s still $500cad but I would have it forever. I am thinking about it
 
do you have an extra head you can just bust holes in?
i have thrown so many heads in the trash. What a bummer now. Of course i did not expect my machine shop to close down and i regret not grabbing the torque plate the second i found that my pistons were missing. That plate will sit forever now and be lost eventually. Total bummer
 
Honda manual is funny. Found this last night while working on the car.

Engine was definitely leaking from here. All over the place. Big mess. All over my transmission, drive shaft, control arm, wheel. Coated in oil lol
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Honda solution, hit it with some sand paper
This makes sense. My freshly powder coated valve cover was loaded with paint in the gasket channel. I sanded it, brake cleaned it, hit it with acetone. Put 45 minutes into cleaning it up. Hopefully it seals now with the rtv in the correct places. Am almost debating putting my crusty oem cover back on. That thing didn’t leak lol
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One clip from sunday. Not my fastest but first lap i am finally catching the mustang GT350 i was chasing. The driver is a regular at this track so she knows what shes doing. That was fun
Second lap is mostly clean until i hit the oil slick at the end. Couldve been much worse as there is a wall to the left and typically that section of the track if you mess up over the bump, the car can get pointed towards the wall and its not great


Looking at data i was slower everywhere vs end of season last year except straight line speed. simply a matter of throttle commitment in a few sections, early braking, and low corner speeds. The data shows me all. As the track surface was far from ideal im not bothered. It is my first time driving this year after all and i compared it to end of season driving last year and it is pretty clear, it is not even close lol.

 
Dropped off my engine at the new shop on friday. I was a little nervous at first but after arriving there…

This must be what a NASA laboratory looks like. Nicer than my dentist’s office. Nicer than my work office which is extremely nice lol.

Never seen such a nice front room. Nevermind the shop. The shop is massive and extremely well lit. All these nice fancy lights. Super super clean. White walls white desks. Clean machines that look to be in amazing shape.

huge heavy shelf with all the completed projects bagged and tagged. Really impressive. They were very nice and professional as well.

Very impressed with what I saw. The building is for sure a newer building. I have no doubts this won’t be cheap but I need good. Not cheap
 
Some updates,

the car is currently a POS and i absolutely hate it. It refuses to turn. It just wants to be a drag car and go forever in a straight line regardless if every single band aid solution ive tried.

This stems from a spring change up front. I have been on the same 10k swift springs for 5 seasons, 55 events. i didnt know this but apparently thats ALOT.

Both of my front springs were bowed and sagged a half inch. Didnt know this until i got the replacement springs from swift(which they sent me for free so thanks for that).

Installed the new front springs and the car became so bad i dont even want it anymore.

Few problems,

rake was deleted. ended up with front higher than rear by over a half inch. didnt really think much of it till the test day and the car refused to bite or turn or do anything.

I lowered the front some more, getting it closer to where it was but still not the rake i want. The car got better but still wasnt digging like earlier this season.

The car went from TOO loose, to now its too tight. Lowering the front did help a bunch but IDK.

Test after lowering the front the first time, this was a meh lap but prior to this i matched my PB from 2024 which was set with the built engine so i guess thats OK but overall still a massive bummer. i want to go faster, not the same amount of fast. ugh. misery. i blew the outright NA K20 lap record as well since i peeked at the timer heading into a dirty brake zone that most guys miss even when paying attention. i fucked it up so bad lost like 6 tenths immediately. i hate this shit sometimes lol





I have since lowered the front end some more and completely thrown out the window all the bump stop height setup i did. Its basically a compromise to get the car into the window i want. I believe itll be just fine but waiting to make another test day to confirm.

I hope the car turns better now, or at least back to how i want it. The new front springs not only added height i had to deal with but we also assume they are actually 10k where as my old springs had probably lost some rate. Swift says they wont lose rate but the feel of the car suggests the were a good bit softer.

If the recent rake change i made doesnt fix it, the next stop is straight up just softer front springs which seems insane as im running an 18k rear spring so 10k front should be the money but apparently no? IDK. this is becoming a nightmare. Fortune auto engineer has spent some time chatting with me about it and he suggests softer front springs. 500lbs vs my current 600lbs. thats 8.3k vs 10k. Front would be soft, it would roll more, means more camber, less braking, less corner exit traction. Again, its a crappy compromise which i dont want. As ive had to explain to the wife, its all a compromise with production chassis. nothing here is designed to be optimal for racing. its all just half baked and you hope you end up on the baked side of it.


Engine is almost done at the machine shop. they called me yesterday to ask some last questions but apparently we are about a week away from me picking up everything so i can assemble it and get it into the car. Way ahead of schedule which is great but i did just yesterday drop $1650 on fresh front tires since im out already. ive done 5 events/test days so yea. time for tires.
Trying the new bridgestone RE71RZ. These are supposed to be absolutely killer fast and have good wear/heat tolerance.

I have hankook RS4 hockey pucks i usually use for lapping days but since i am testing a new suspension and trying to dial the car in i need to run the time attack setup at all times. whatever. the cost of doing business i guess
 
We usually have a little bit of toe out on the front on our FWD race cars. My touring 4 SCCA car (strut suspension) i am 1/8 total toe out. For reference the car is 2900lbs min weight and i have been running a 450 front springs on it with a stack of bumps to take it to 900.
 
Wait if you were as fast with the new springs as you were on the built motor doesn't that mean the setup is faster even though you don't like the way it feels?
 
Wait if you were as fast with the new springs as you were on the built motor doesn't that mean the setup is faster even though you don't like the way it feels?
my shop mans said this. fuck how it feels if its fast its fast just keep on sending it. While this may be true i feel like i am leaving something on the table. If i could get it to bite just that little bit harder, just dig in a little more, that would be ideal but maybe im wrong.

We usually have a little bit of toe out on the front on our FWD race cars. My touring 4 SCCA car (strut suspension) i am 1/8 total toe out. For reference the car is 2900lbs min weight and i have been running a 450 front springs on it with a stack of bumps to take it to 900.
yea i have been trying to avoid toe, not that the car is really street driven much but wanted to avoid the drag since im HP limited it might be worth 2-3mph. That said, the trade off may be worth it.
450lbs definitely seems "soft" to me but 900 on the bumps is a ton dang lol.

current stagger is 600lbs front and 1100lbs rear. If the rake change doesnt fix it i see 2 options

soften up the front spring, or get a 1" longer rear spring so i can raise the rear more to give it more rake.

I guess i will see after the next test day. Im trying to get out next wednesday so we'll see.

Now that ive lowered the front more, the car needs alignment and scales this time. Lets see how it goes.



Plan C is just throw the old springs on LOL
 
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