DISI-MZResponse 2.0

[Everton992000]

Yeah I've been reading up on that and that's probably what I'll move to next; probably have to fab up a bracket or something to lift it up higher so I can drain it from the top of the engine bay without having to jack up the car.



I actually want to put something useful in there; a while back I drove 2 hours at highway speeds on two flat front tires and didn't realize it till I did a pull and found it to be a bit wobbly. TPMS had died, so didn't know.


I'm eyeballing the CS intake mani, which, with short injectors, should just barely clear a TMIC as far as fuel rail goes. I could always have a custom TMIC made as well, later on.


I'm not sure I want to go all in on another full setup, but that depends on how long that 6 puck will last you and how hard it bites.

It may just have been my luck, but my fidanza/luk setup was slipping at ~350 wtq.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

[Enki]

I don't really expect to go over that, but anything that lasts a bit longer and is more tolerant of abuse would be good.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

I have been daily driving the 6 puck without issues. Doesn't seem to be wearing out or changing. It has not been beaten super hard but it held a lot of power and a ton of wot pulls plus a year+ of dd.

 

[drew10101010]

I've had 2 puck clutches so far and both wore the same way. The pads barely wore at all but the flywheel and pressure plate wore out. These are on Honda B series. I'm sure it will apply here too. Maybe some people can chime in when their's wore out.
1st was a Yonaka 6 puck with stock flywheel. Maybe 10-20k miles?? It started slipping real bad at 4-5k rpm where it was like it went into netural. Upon inspection pads looked fresh and the surfaces were deeply grooved. Attached is a pic of the flywheel I used with a Yonaka 6 puck. I could put the disc in there and spin it with no resistance by hand.
2nd Competition clutch 9 puck with aftermarket oem style flyweel. Still good with little puck wear but high surface wear.

If you google u can find alot of what I'm saying.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generat...-worn-out-all-ready-less-than-2-years-495805/
a quote from above: "you have to keep in mind that ceramic grabs so much harder than a orginic that it will cause the pp and flywheel to wear out fast. an act is a performance clutch, its not made to last forever, its just made to hold."
Pretty much anytime u slip a puck clutch it will wear out the surfaces way faster than a full face. I heard somewhere WOT box doesn't work well with organic. U can overheat an organic but not a puck. Kevlar if you overheat once its toast. twin disc is a joke. U cannot DD it. It really is on/off. Something that would be smoother than a 6 puck would be an 8 puck if u can find one. The less pucks the higher the stage usually. There's also a dual friction where one side is organic and one side is puck. That might be perfect for u lol. IDK If I would trust it myself. I would think I could overheat it.

Well found the dual friction: https://edgeautosport.com/south-ben...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

People were actually talking about it on the discord. African and Frausty recommended it. Andale uses Stage 3 endurance.

South bend Stage 3 daily. 430 ft lbs
https://edgeautosport.com/south-ben...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

Spec stage 3. Might be gentler than a 6 puck and holds 477ft lb. Full face carbon semi-metallic disc.
https://edgeautosport.com/spec-stag...eting-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013/#product-reviews

 

[VashEXE]

I've had 2 puck clutches so far and both wore the same way. The pads barely wore at all but the flywheel and pressure plate wore out. These are on Honda B series. I'm sure it will apply here too. Maybe some people can chime in when their's wore out.
1st was a Yonaka 6 puck with stock flywheel. Maybe 10-20k miles?? It started slipping real bad at 4-5k rpm where it was like it went into netural. Upon inspection pads looked fresh and the surfaces were deeply grooved. Attached is a pic of the flywheel I used with a Yonaka 6 puck. I could put the disc in there and spin it with no resistance by hand.
2nd Competition clutch 9 puck with aftermarket oem style flyweel. Still good with little puck wear but high surface wear.

If you google u can find alot of what I'm saying.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generat...-worn-out-all-ready-less-than-2-years-495805/
a quote from above: "you have to keep in mind that ceramic grabs so much harder than a orginic that it will cause the pp and flywheel to wear out fast. an act is a performance clutch, its not made to last forever, its just made to hold."
Pretty much anytime u slip a puck clutch it will wear out the surfaces way faster than a full face. I heard somewhere WOT box doesn't work well with organic. U can overheat an organic but not a puck. Kevlar if you overheat once its toast. twin disc is a joke. U cannot DD it. It really is on/off. Something that would be smoother than a 6 puck would be an 8 puck if u can find one. The less pucks the higher the stage usually. There's also a dual friction where one side is organic and one side is puck. That might be perfect for u lol. IDK If I would trust it myself. I would think I could overheat it.

Well found the dual friction: https://edgeautosport.com/south-ben...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

People were actually talking about it on the discord. African and Frausty recommended it. Andale uses Stage 3 endurance.

South bend Stage 3 daily. 430 ft lbs
https://edgeautosport.com/south-ben...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

Spec stage 3. Might be gentler than a 6 puck and holds 477ft lb. Full face carbon semi-metallic disc.
https://edgeautosport.com/spec-stag...eting-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013/#product-reviews

These are super overkill for @Enki 's build since he's going to have such a low WTQ requirement. I have over 30k on my 6 puck and no slippage yet. That's with a lot of pulls and a track day in there too. Just food for thought.

 

[Enki]

Honestly I'm probably fine keeping the setup I already have. I'll likely be running less torque than I was stock block.

 

[drew10101010]

Well stock clutch is good up to 350ish it seems. If he stays below that then that's all he needs. Next step up could be a full face with stronger PP for slightly higher tq ratings like 400-430 ish (south bend 3). I think 6 puck is overkill for him. He needs something gentler than ceramic pucks if he wants longevity.
OOh maybe an ACT HD with street disc. https://edgeautosport.com/act-clutc...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/
This is a popular choice in other platforms. 415 tq rating perfect!

edit: yeah so if your going to make low tq then fidanza luk is the best value. I got mine at https://rcagarage.com/shop/drivetra...07-mazdaspeed6-aluminum-flywheel-161071-33-2/
cheapest anywhere. And the luk at amazon

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[JohnnyTightlips]

Some people are also trash drivers with a clutch and burn them out quick without realizing what they are doing. When I took my OEM out at 165k it still had a lot of life left in it. I have been very happy with the ACT 6 puck and streetlite so far.

 

[Enki]

Current state of the current state:
For the first time in probably close to a year, I've booted up the tablet, updated it, and reflashed the only map I currently have. Also cleaned up the back since it looked terrible.

Before (click for big):


After (click for big):


I then went and beat on it a bit while grabbing lunch for the fam (logged the whole trip) and went straight home thereafter; probably around 20-25 miles or so.

Tailpipe before trip:


Tailpipe immediately after returning:


Also here's the fresh flash third pull from the log:


AFRs are on point, but everything else isn't exactly stellar.

I'll be shopping around for a catch can setup here soon, see if that helps any. Other than that, I won't be fucking with the tune any, or other power parts.

Also, there's a few extra cleaning pics to show just how nasty everything was, and how well a polish/cleaner like Brasso works on the exhaust tips.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Have you done a compression test? The boost curve and oil issues seem like the turbo could be bad

 

[Enki]

What about the boost curve looks bad?
Below is the graph of WGDC (green) and Boost (cyan) from the log:


Keep in mind that it's a 2.0 destroke and the cams are likely not cut to proper spec.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Compared to wgdc the boost curve makes sense. What are you trying to do with the tune.

My original comment was based on the assumption that you would want boost to stay the same or increase.

You aren't running a ginormous turbo so I would expect even a poorly running motor to be pushing enough exhaust gas to maintain boost

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I thought you tuned out some power to keep the engine happy, that is until you could tear it down again?

 

[Enki]

Yeah I have a load limit tune setup, WGDC is 100% and VT doesn't want the IDCs going over ~95% or so, plus it always wants to be .15 under actual load targets for some reason. This tune looks like a "whatever, it runs" tune so I don't think I was trying to do anything with it.

One other thing to keep in mind is that I'm stock injectors only and on ~E40.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Your boost curve looks perfect to start the front tires on fire. Hit it and quit it.

 

[Enki]

Cept it doesn't make any torque, even with full VVT and 26 PSI. Lol

 

[Easter Bunny]

Do you have a rag stuck in the intake?

 

[Enki]

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(No)

 

[Easter Bunny]

Holy shit. That wasn't even a rag that looked like a canvas drop cloth

 

[Sho]

Glad to see you're sticking with it !

Heads up. While kelford will properly make your cams to whatever lift/duration spec you request, you will need to ensure they properly placed/aligned the trigger wheel on the intake cam.

Theres a ton of kelford 247-C cams as well as 247-x custom spec out there where the trigger wheel is not correct when at TDC, and it will cause the car to
A: run like shit
B: throw a cam/crank correlation code.