Disi-MZResponse

[ConeKiller]

@Enki
Just dropping in to say keep up the good work, and to inquire about your intentions with the CS camber plates.

 

[Enki]

Well I'm still a shit driver so the plan is to get the rape mode dialed in and put it in the hands of the local cone dodger for evaluation. I'll be using his recommended settings for suspension shit all the way around, and it will be corner balanced (though balanced to me, not him). With any luck, it will be as capable as his pretty much race mode MSM.

 

[Enki]

Pictured:
Hotchkis FSB
CorkSport front brace
2x brand new LCA (with)
Whiteline +.5 caster & anti lift kit
Whiteline bump steer correction bolts + shims/washers
CorkSport camber plates*

*Note*
I might have to go a different route with the camber plates as they weren't designed for use with KWV3 coilovers and there's an issue with the shock mounting hardware that I'm not sure how I'll get around

 

[ConeKiller]

I might have to go a different route with the camber plates as they weren't designed for use with KWV3 coilovers and there's an issue with the shock mounting hardware that I'm not sure how I'll get around

What's the issue? Is OD of the strut attachment point to large for the spherical bearing in the plate? Spring issue?

 

[Enki]

It's the pillow ball nut actually; the threads on the nut are longer than the threads on the shaft (which has a 9mm hex cut into it for locking it down) so I'll either have to loctite + power tools it or find a different solution. Picture shows what I'm talking about, but on the stock setup the retention nut was well below the hex cut head of the shaft.

Before anyone says anything, yes I'm going to clean up the hole and plate and all that more; it has to come out again for washers and shit anyways.



Edit:
Here's what the end of the rod looks like; note that it spins freely, and needs a separate wrench to tighten properly:

 

[ConeKiller]

It's the pillow ball nut actually; the threads on the nut are longer than the threads on the shaft (which has a 9mm hex cut into it for locking it down) so I'll either have to loctite + power tools it or find a different solution.

Sounds like you have a handle on the situation. You might be able to rig up a custom thinwall, 9mm hex socket- or drill out the unused thread so you can fit a normal socket in the ID of the nut (Matt Damond and I did this). This isn't the first time I've heard of this problem with the CS plates. It's a limitation of trying to fit a spherical bearing to an attachment point that's designed for a plate. Ideally, there would be an unthreaded portion of the strut shaft that matches the ID of the spherical bearing, and the threaded piece would protrude from the top of the spherical.

 

[Enki]

Yeah I thought about that, but I don't have a drill press handy. Still an option, though, because the car is still down.

 

[ConeKiller]

Yeah I thought about that, but I don't have a drill press handy. Still an option, though, because the car is still down.

If you want, I believe have some of these nuts laying around for a custom camber plate project, and I'd be happy to drill out and send to you. Just let me know the OD of the nut or the ID spherical bearing- I'm 99% sure what I have is identical to the corksport hardware.

 

[Enki]

Corksport had to send me different ones from their usual setup as the normal ones were too big for the shaft.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I have one of those Nator IL modified camber plates. Damn things have been on my shelf this whole year. I will be installing them on my V3's next month.

 

[Enki]

Headed into the new year properly. Also, the torque spec for L19s is a bit annoying.

 

[KCi]

** DELETED **

To avoid starting WW3

 

[Enki]

Yeah that's terrible. Who did the work?

 

[WetzMS3]

Looks sexy James

 

[Easter Bunny]

Thanks for those pics, i got a half chub and my dick touched the inside of the toilet bowl at work.

 

[Enki]

Did some stuff on Saturday; weather was nice for it.


Figured out a better way to handle removing the buckets:


Did some measurements:


And my pops got the oil pan all nice and pretty:


Gonna be ordering the new buckets and shims tomorrow, now that I've got the measurements all done. Plan is to install them and double check that they are within factory tolerance after install; if not, new shims will be ordered for the ones out of spec. I'm doing it like this because on both cams I had to stack feeler gauges so I'm assured that there's some error in there somewhere (plus this was the first time I've done this process); double feelers on the intake, triple on the exhaust due to the gap that the regrind left.

After that, if everything checks out, it will be time to start bolting shit up.

 

[Enki]

After several months, the totally custom anodized aluminum milspec 3 piece raspi + touchscreen monitor vesa mounts for in-car installation are complete; so excited!

 

[jsmith]

Thermal paste or adhesive on those heat sinks?

 

[Enki]

Thermal tape/adhesive. These are ramsinks specifically for PC computers but work perfectly on the RasPi (they are actually a bit oversized which doesn't hurt anything really).

Edit:
Forgot to mention that my Hella Solid State Relays came in. 20 amps per and 1khz max cycling frequency. Should be good for slowly spinning up fans and water pumps and whatnot.

 

[jsmith]

I mention it because they are going to get hotter, and vibrate more than perhaps the thermal tape can handle. I have a few of those heat sinks myself and several have detached on me in much less strenuous circumstances.