Disi-MZResponse

[Enki]

Anyone have a part number for this connector or even the long, square electrical connectors it uses?

[doublepost=1557016303][/doublepost]Or worst case, a whole new aftermarket fuel pump basket that can handle bigger pumps and shit?

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I think @CMajor used an Evo fuel basket and pump setup from Radium.

 

[Enki]

Here's the captured electrical connector that I could make work as well:
[doublepost=1557197301][/doublepost]Ordered some more stuff:
6x factory replacment tophat bolts for the coilovers
1x replacement fuel basket (to get a replacement connector mostly)
1x replacement fuel line (the one that connects to the basket

Worst case I'll send this Aeromotive pump back and get the older version, best case I have spares.

 

[Enki]

Well, can't find the connector so going to have to send the pump back. Also, the Aeromotive 11165 pump doesn't appear to be made any longer and is becoming difficult to find, so I'll have to go with something else; worst case, a DW65c.
[doublepost=1557263960][/doublepost]AEM 1200 on the way, be here Thursday. Hopefully my new basket (which I will seal up with RTV to help preserve the pins, if that's even feasible) will be here then as well.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

From everything that I read on the Aeromotive website when I was hunting for an ITFP upgrade, it said the 111565 was supposed to be a direct replacement for 11165 since it was being discontinued.

Is just the pigtail different on the pump?

 

[Enki]

It's hard wired. I've just doublechecked and you can't remove the wires from the pump without disassembling the entire pump. It's gotta be wired in.

Also for clarification its the 11565 that's the new one with the old one being 11165 (the old one has the proper connector receptacle on it).

 

[Enki]

All parts in on Monday.
*Sigh*

 

[_Mazdarati]

The 1200 should be a clip from the top of the pump to the basket. Don't they make an electrical epoxy? I remember when mighty car mods did Mechanical Stig's v8, turbo Yoda used a 2 part epoxy for one of the connectors so it would be weather proof. Your could probably use that same approach to keep those pins nice

 

[Enki]

I've got a new basket coming but I've already got the new AEM ITFP, FPR, and filter. Basket will be here on Monday and I'll RTV it with Rightstuff most likely to help keep it nice and clean...Maybe use a dielectric grease if that's more viable.

 

[Enki]

New basket came in; AEM pump aint even remotely close to fitting. Even if it would go all the way in, it still wouldn't allow the filter to connect and retain the PRV properly. The Aeromotive looks like it would fit though.

 

[Sho]

Wtf lol

 

[Enki]

AEMs own site says it will work, but its too fucking big to fit.

DW300c pump: 38mm diameter, 115mm overall length.
AEM 50-1200: 39.1mm diameter, 125.6mm overall length.

 

[_Mazdarati]

Enki what the fuck is your luck with fuel pumps. It should fit no problem

 

[Enki]

The 50-1200 is too long to fit properly anyways. The 300c fits in the basket no issue, and the Aeromotive pump might fit as well. If I were to try and use the AEM (even the proper one, the 1220) I'd have to sand the pump and/or the basket in order to get it to fit.

The 1200 is just too long at any rate, and the 1215 and the 1220 are the same diameter; this one is 39.1mm (advertised 39mm) while the 300c is 38mm measured and rattles in the new basket.

Regardless, I'm hoping the 300c is ok and it was the regulator that was bad so I can at least get back on the road.

 

[Enki]

Put the 300c back in with the new holder (the bottom part didn't come with it so I didn't *technically* get a new basket), swapped the supply line that hooks up to the basket (specialty tool required) and drained the oil/swapped the filter.

Tomorrow I *might* have time to put oil back in it and seal up the fuel tank access hole...

Left to do (short term):
1. Add oil
2. Seal fuel tank access hole
3. Plumb power steering cooler and refill
4. Reinstall headlights, washer tank (maybe plumb it first for meth runs to side tank...not sure yet) and meth tank/pump
5. Front fascia
6. Hood


Left to do (long term):
1. New meth setup?
2. 6th port?
3. Test chem cooling?
4. Custom TMIC?
8. Tune it?
11. Sell booty for car parts?

 

[Enki]

So, another week wasted.

12 PSI peak at the rail; pretty sure I put everything in properly, but don't hear the standard pulsing of the pump assembly. Key cycled many times, cranked for a bit, won't go over 12 PSI.

Ordering the 50-1220 today, as well as turn signal lights (a minor oversight, but still annoying).

I'm also seriously contemplating having a replacement cover made rather than using aluminum ducting tape to cover the fuel access hole...I should probably also turn down the pokey bits as well.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Wont a simple sheet of aluminum or steel from the hardware store work?

It should be thin enough to mold, and also to cut with tin snips.

 

[Enki]

Yeah I was considering using something like that and some self tapping sheet metal screws, with some one sided sticky foam stuff to seal it. Hammer it into place and bolt it down.

 

[Bigelow]

That is what I did for mine. Home depot has sheets for a cheap. I painted mine with black heat paint. Use the extra to build heat shields here and there in the bay

 

[Maisonvi]

Mine was a piece of plastic sign board and duct tape. Worked fine for a year or 2.