Let's talk SS brake lines

Like an idiot, I didn't PB blast anything. I'm sure I'll have a little rant/writeup on how to replace the passenger side hardline in the coming months.
 
Ugh. I'm assuming all hardlines are going to be held in place by like 50 clips and random tie-downs.
 
Man, this was one of the easiest things I did on my speed. I had more issues replacing the rear pads since the caliper tool I rented did not fit the small caliper grooves. I am glad I got my speed out of MI after just one winter.
 
Yup winter salt is brutal... We'll see how I fair after 3 winters on the car so far... My buddies 06.5(stamped) Genwon is fucking brutal to do anything on especially if it enolves the underside at all
 
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Awafrican said:
Yup winner salt is brutal... We'll see how I fair after 3 winters on the car so far... My buddies 06.5(stamped) Genwon is fucking brutal to do anything on especially if it enolves the underside at all
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I just did suspension after 3 winters, it was bad. Lots of swearing, large hammers, a torch, cuts and bruises were involved.

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That right front hard-line/soft-line junction is the worst...

I boogered up the nut so badly when putting my SS lines on that I hope I never have to remove it again...because I'm pretty sure I'll need to replace the hard-line next time. :unamused:
 
I have a box with pads, rotors, and ss lines in my garage as well as fresh fluid for flushing.

This thread is giving me anxiety.

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Gotta admit, since I'm in an apartment (no garage, boo) and was having the whole suspension done anyways/performance-aligned with the new SPC arms, I just had them throw on the Stoptechs. Easy peasy :D
 
Darthxar said:
I have a box with pads, rotors, and ss lines in my garage as well as fresh fluid for flushing. This thread is giving me anxiety.
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Meh, we did mine before ENM&M last year and it went smoothly. A 2013 shouldn't be corroded enough to be a problem. If your flush is good you'll be startled at the solidity of your brake pedal.
 
John said:
Meh, we did mine before ENM&M last year and it went smoothly. A 2013 shouldn't be corroded enough to be a problem. If your flush is good you'll be startled at the solidity of your brake pedal.
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Yeah I will probably tackle it this weekend. My pedal is a touch soft. Probably because I still have the factory fluid fill and it's been on the road almost three years.

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John said:
Meh, we did mine before ENM&M last year and it went smoothly. A 2013 shouldn't be corroded enough to be a problem. If your flush is good you'll be startled at the solidity of your brake pedal.
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That's what I'm hoping for!
 
neganox said:
The front passenger side flare nut rounded nicely and now has me ordering a new hardline from mazda. We tried two sets of pipe wrenches and then vice grips nailed the coffin shut. Great times!
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Why are you ordering a whole new line instead of adding a short section of line? You can get brake line flaring tools and benders everywhere. As has been said, replacing the entire line seems likely to be a major pain in the ass. Maybe @ALPINEST4RS can advise you better; I know he is going to save Ken one of these days. Maybe he'll say replacing the whole line isn't bad, as I think he was offering that as one of Ken's solutions. *shrug*

Quigs said:
a decent set of flare wrenches is key though.
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For sure. I have Craftsman ones and I'm not sure what everyone is on about because mine are great and got the job done fine.
 
You don't need flare wrenches just to replace the rubber hose to SS lines from the hard line do you? I presume those would be wanted I actually re doing all the hard lines
 
John said:
You can get brake line flaring tools and benders everywhere. As has been said, replacing the entire line seems likely to be a major pain in the ass
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I looked into this but the process of flaring the line while it is still attached seemed to be quite a space issue. If I'm mistaken, this would certainly be easier I'm sure.
 
Awafrican said:
You don't need flare wrenches just to replace the rubber hose to SS lines from the hard line do you? I presume those would be wanted I actually re doing all the hard lines
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The manual tells you to use a flare wrench to tighten all the flare nuts as well as to open the bleeder screws in actual fact. From what I remember though, the flare nut wrenches won't fit in where the bleeders are so we had to use regular open end wrenches for that. As for the flare nuts, you can try with regular wrenches but it's a risk. You could probably use a flare crowfoot in lieu of a flare nut wrench.
 
Mastermind46 said:
I used a regular wrench to do mine. Did not know that was not recommended.
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If it works then its fine. Flare nut wrenches have more contact area and therefore are less likely to strip. Sometimes it doesnt matter though (ie for me) a stuck nut is a stuck nut.
 
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