Lets talk Virtual Dyno

Easter Bunny said:
i personally would get a used k04 and swap it, prior to dumping a bunch of money on upgraded turbo parts. i would not want to start modifying the car further without making sure that everything is healthy and working correctly.

there is a distinct possibility that you could put a new turbo on and find out the motor is toast.

lastly i think that top mount while cool is a ton of expense for adding power to a stock motor. the benefit of the top mount is the ability to fit a much larger turbo than the stock motor can handle let alone one with 200k miles on it.
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Yeah I would hate to find that out too after using all my money on the turbo.. Thanks man and what do you think as a temporary fix to get the ebay ko4?
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VoodooJef said:
The S4 is a great turbo but may be a little bit bigger than you`d want for a stock replacement feel. It`s sort of a dialed down 3076. Spool is measurably later than stock. And you`d be way, way underselling it on stock fuel supply. I`ll second the CS or the S3 suggestions if you`re going without aux fueling. They aren`t radically different from each other with similar supporting hardware.

Like has been said, figure out what your goals are and go from there. You`ll run out of fuel around 335ish on 93, 370ish on an E33 mix. If your goals are bigger than that you`ll need supplemental fuel. There isn`t any room for negotiation there. The you have to figur eout how much past that you want to go if you do. 400? 450? 500+? Plenty of people doing 400 with a squirt of methanol. My S4 was plenty fun at 425whp, seems about it`s sweet spot. Had to push it hard to get it closer to 500 and it took a LOT of methanol.
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Thanks for giving your .02 Jeff, considering you have or had an S4 and honestly ill end up rebuilding the whole car with its mileage basically so I figured I’ll aim for around 450hp for now and maybe a good bit later down the road if money allows me to then I will start going for more. I’m planning on doing methanol first or possibly extra fuel ports for better reliability.

We don’t have E85 very close by here for some reason otherwise that would be a great option. Considering a stock block can handle around 400 what would I have to do while rebuilding mine to keep it safe around 500?
[doublepost=1529531424][/doublepost]I’m not worried about some lag either mine is just having a ton of lag which a ko4 shouldn’t have any of. My friends’ ms6 is bone stock doesn’t even have an AP on it and it spooled MUCH faster than mine in early rpms and then felt almost the same up top and mine is fully bolted with an etune from Jason. I don’t mind the lag except im not getting the extra perks of it considering it’s not because of a BT setup.....haha
 
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jsmith said:
I've got a functional K04 w/ ~75k miles. One busted exhaust to down pipe thread. Yours for the price of shipping if you want it.
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Awesome man I will take it as long as you know it’s worth the effort to replace my other with and appreciate it! Where do you live (so ill know how long it is going to be lol) and how do we go about shipping it and paying you?
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Easter Bunny said:
Even just getting a used k04 from the sale section here would help you narrow down the problem
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Thanks man im going to try out @jsmith ‘s used one and see what it gets me. I mean I didn’t think much of the lag until I drove my friends to compare. It made me more worried than I already was. And something else really odd was for some reason mine felt MUCH heavier than his just rolling down the road and on regular take offs. I didn’t have anything in my car at all either so im not sure why that was either. I have 18’s that might be just a bit heavier and are offset +35 and a little bit wider tire but would that make that big of a difference? It seemed like a huge difference...
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amnesiac said:
I'm not seeing in your logs where your having a bunch of lag. Just looking at a graph of one of your WOT logs you go full throttle at ~2400 RPM and you have 16 psi at ~3000. I'll be honest and say that I'm not looking much at K04 datalogs but that doesn't seem that bad. A lot would also depend on what your tune is asking your car to do.

https://datazap.me/u/irate/streetspeed-6?log=0&data=3-14
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To answer about the lag time... It isn’t too bad until I compared it to a healthy ms6. Jason @DizzyTuning done a good job with my tune and I think he surely made my map to build boost atleast as quickly as it would stock. I’m burning probably a quart every 2 weeks so something is definitely wrong and my car smokes like a diesel at wot so im assuming its the turbo. Either way im going to both build my motor and get a bigger turbo as soon as I can. I just don’t have the money for both now so it’s important to know which to actually do first.
 
Worth the effort to swap in a used K04? Maybe if you are strapped for cash and not time. I would check the engine first and then move to swap K04, but that just me.

Logistically I need to put up some pictures/signage of the K04 and then it would be Paypal to cover shipping. Will have time this weekend to process.
 
jsmith said:
Worth the effort to swap in a used K04? Maybe if you are strapped for cash and not time. I would check the engine first and then move to swap K04, but that just me.

Logistically I need to put up some pictures/signage of the K04 and then it would be Paypal to cover shipping. Will have time this weekend to process.
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Yeah I might want to I guess. Jason said he thinks it would most likely my rings. I’ll see what I can come up with by trying a leak down test. I just haven’t done one before so first time for wverything right!?
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Easter Bunny said:
Have your intake valves ever been cleaned?
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To my knowledge they haven’t been cleaned so that’s no good either. You think I could get a decently cheap second motor to build so I will have a car to drive until it’s ready to be put in?
 
Alright so weather is not allowing me to check my car out much but I did manage to find this in my intake before it started pooring down rain.. I don’t have an OCC but could a failed PCV actually be the cause? I have heard that our cars run bad and burn a ton of oil when it goes out? Is this true because it hasn’t been replaced that i know of and could explain the bad virtual dyno results possibly right?
 

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Easter Bunny said:
That doesn't look horrible considering the mileage. Unless it was cleaned recently
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I got to dig a litlle more yesterday and the turbo inlet has the coupler still on it and the oil is all around the inlet from sucking it in. The turbo had zero shaft play and spun alright so no worries there I don’t think but that doesn’t mean the seals aren’t basically shot either.
 

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Easter Bunny said:
If the seals were shot you would know. That amount of oil is not shit seals
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Well I have everything ordered to clean my valves except the gaskets I am replacing, the actual PCV valve , and an egr delet kit (I haven’t decided where to get those things yet). I wanted the new IM gasket from AP but they say “out of stock” so hopefully they will get them back in soon so that I can continue. Lifetime guarentee on TIG ftw lol
 
SharksInSpace said:
an EGR delete is an EGR delete is an EGR delete. AP's is the cheapest.
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Yeah I went ahead and ordered the last IM and TB gasket set he had left and an egr delete. I also bought the blaster from harbor freight along with the finer walnut material to blast with and long picks I was told I would need. I purchased a leak down tester that will be here Wednesday so I will be doing that when I get it as well. I may go ahead and try to put @jsmiths turbo on while im at it to rule out anything but the motor. If the leak down test goes as hoped for then I will continue my plan to do all of this over the 4th of July weekend as I will have 4 days to get it all finished up. Any advice for removing the ko4 (like not having to remove exhaust manifold somehow) or for the valve cleaning the first time around.
 
@SharksInSpace and @JohnnyTightlips can attest that seafoam deep creep is a fukkin jizzical penetrating fluid. Spray the shit out every exhaust bolt/stud you think you'll be removing. I'd also have some extra studs and nuts on hand for the dp or turbo (they use the same studs).

That's all the advice I have. No idea how to turbo swap a speed6
 
mangosmoothie said:
@SharksInSpace and @JohnnyTightlips can attest that seafoam deep creep is a fukkin jizzical penetrating fluid. Spray the shit out every exhaust bolt/stud you think you'll be removing. I'd also have some extra studs and nuts on hand for the dp or turbo (they use the same studs).

That's all the advice I have. No idea how to turbo swap a speed6[/QUOTE
Alright ill keep that in mind thanks Casey haha I can’t decide whether to change it out or wait and see if the pcv replacement and valve cleaning makes a big difference. I haven’t been getting into boost near as much and my car isn’t using NEAR the oil it was so that’s good atleast.
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The MS6 is just like doing the 3 for the most part, just harder because you can't do anything from under the car due to the transfer case. I used Ziggo's guide about doing a BNRS3 swap from MSF and it worked out pretty well back in the day.
 
amnesiac said:
The MS6 is just like doing the 3 for the most part, just harder because you can't do anything from under the car due to the transfer case. I used Ziggo's guide about doing a BNRS3 swap from MSF and it worked out pretty well back in the day.
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Alrigh thanks I just didn’t know if the exhaust mani had to be removed for sure or not.
 
once the EGR is out of the way the K04 has room to come through the space it leaves without removing the exhaust manifold. Of course once you`re in it that far pulling the EM isn`t a big deal anyway.
 
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