I was leaning more towards a any nuances that might be helpful to know before starting.
Initially I was planning on using jack stands to hold the string but I may cut up and burn some tubing together that will temporarily mount to the car to make the resetup after adjustments go quicker.
I'm leaning towards a couple of the more reasonably priced digital angle/camber gauges.
Toe is probably the toughest one to do right in a reasonable amount of time.
If you can do rigid tube on car for strings, do that. Take your time and get it right once and it'll save you a bunch of headache. Setting up strings on jackstands/whatever every time is a pain, because I've never really found a good reference point to easily get a side square with the longitudinal axis of the car. Track widths can't be trusted, so you can't use anything in the wheel/suspension/subframe assembly to reference from.
You can do single axle toe using the two-tape method, or just measuring track width at points on the leading and trailing edge of the tires, then taking the difference. The problem with only using this method is that it gets toe to 0 (or whatever), but it may not be 0 (or whatever) relative to the car axis. As an example, you could be at 0 toe, but overall toe left or toe right without realizing it.
Camber is fairly easy if you have an angle finder of some sort and a flat floor. I use a Craftsman 6 or 8" digital angle finder, but it only reads in tenths. Nicer ones would have readings to the hundredths.
Aside from stringing and doing the alignment from scratch every time, another method (which I most often employ) is to start from a known good reading from a good alignment rack. Then do everything relative to those numbers. After a few changes, your settings start to drift a touch and will need rechecked on the rack, but I hear some places do lifetime alignment deals for a good price. If you can get your subframe shifted to a point where you have 0 cross-camber at min or max camber, you can take it in at min/max and just have them set toe to 0.
Most recently, I've made adjustments from known readings at full droop with the car on stands (which is fucking awesome because it doesn't require a flat surface). Once on stands, loosen tie rod jam nut, loosen camber adjuster since you had it at max or min (plates for you, ball joint for me). I use a laser level to project onto a wall ~10' away to compensate for
toe. Shoot the laser at some point you'll remember, add or subtract camber using a gauge, tighten camber adjuster, then adjust tie rod so the laser hits that point it was originally hitting. You can double check toe when you set it on the ground, but so far this method has gotten things SUPER close.
