street car gone road race

[gotovato]

He must be talking about vibrator settings.

LOL
[doublepost=1541159801][/doublepost]if in fact you were talking about camber, im not sure whats the best, but i can tell you with 3* up front it made a huge difference. camber arms will go in in the spring and the rear will be aligned to 0*

 

[FerJR10]

are you referring to camber? or...?

Yes, camber
[doublepost=1541600314][/doublepost]

He must be talking about vibrator settings.

You know a lot about the subject jaja

 

[gotovato]

Yes, camber

ok well as of now, im running 3* in the front and 1.5* in the rear(havent installed camber arms yet). the rear will be adjusted for next season to 0. All i can say for now is that the difference from 1.5* camber in the front to 3* was night and day. 3* is WAY better. might even dial in a little more next year.

 

[Code Monkey]

might even dial in a little more next year.

How do you know if you need more or less? Get a needle tire pyrometer.

 

[gotovato]

How do you know if you need more or less? Get a needle tire pyrometer.

yea pyrometer is something im going to get for next season and a good tire pressure gauge as well to start collecting this data. im unsure if i need more or less, but the grip so far is so much better

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Yes, camber
[doublepost=1541600314][/doublepost]
You know a lot about the subject jaja

Yes I do. You dont play with dildo's or vibrators?

 

[gotovato]

So, with the car now put away for the winter, it wont be touched until spring. I have a question about front sway bars and why for a fwd car? to my knowledge we upgrade the rear bar to help with rotation and to promote more over steer vs under steer. I noticed a big difference with the white rear sway vs stock. Now i wonder, whats the point of ever upgrading the front bar? is there a point on these cars? i figure if anything itll only cancel out the effectiveness of the rear bar upgrade ? Thoughts?

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I have the whiteline FSB, been on the car for over 3 years now.

Dont bother.

I got it for roll resistance in the front.

It does reduce the effectiveness of the rear bar oversteer, which I was ok with going in since I like neutral steering.

The bar clunks because of movement. Its thicker and doesnt match the same angles as OEM, so it loudly bangs the chassis when the suspension compresses like when going over speed bumps.

It also puts the endlinks at a weird angle. At full steering wheel turn, it'll snap the steering wheel back and out of your hands. I've checked for preload countless times, and even tried to change the angles of the endlink heads to match, and still no remedy.

Not worth the money, time, or effort in labor. Stick with stock FSB.

If you want to reduce roll, you are much better off going to stiffer springs rates on decent coilovers. Or even swapping the bushings in the front control arms to stiffer ones to tighten the front end up. Your money will net you better control in the front end than a FSB will. UNLESS you've already done that, dedicated to full race car duty, are on 900lb springs and still looking to reduce roll.

 

[gotovato]

I have the whiteline FSB, been on the car for over 3 years now.

Dont bother.

I got it for roll resistance in the front.

It does reduce the effectiveness of the rear bar oversteer, which I was ok with going in since I like neutral steering.

The bar clunks because of movement. Its thicker and doesnt match the same angles as OEM, so it loudly bangs the chassis when the suspension compresses like when going over speed bumps.

It also puts the endlinks at a weird angle. At full steering wheel turn, it'll snap the steering wheel back and out of your hands. I've checked for preload countless times, and even tried to change the angles of the endlink heads to match, and still no remedy.

Not worth the money, time, or effort in labor. Stick with stock FSB.

If you want to reduce roll, you are much better off going to stiffer springs rates on decent coilovers. Or even swapping the bushings in the front control arms to stiffer ones to tighten the front end up. Your money will net you better control in the front end than a FSB will. UNLESS you've already done that, dedicated to full race car duty, are on 900lb springs and still looking to reduce roll.

Well thank you for that information! i was already pretty against getting a FSB as it didnt make much sense to me but i see everyone selling them for our cars and i was just wondering if there was some point i was over looking.

I was thinking about doing bushings as i know itll make a good difference, i believe white line makes them for gen2? I will have to search

Money will be spent on some upgraded coil overs eventually as my basic KW V1 are very soft and getting near the end of their usefulness to me.

Ive found one real option for quality track coil overs but they are extremely expensive and im just not at that point yet i dont think

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Well thank you for that information! i was already pretty against getting a FSB as it didnt make much sense to me but i see everyone selling them for our cars and i was just wondering if there was some point i was over looking.

I was thinking about doing bushings as i know itll make a good difference, i believe white line makes them for gen2? I will have to search

Money will be spent on some upgraded coil overs eventually as my basic KW V1 are very soft and getting near the end of their usefulness to me.

Ive found one real option for quality track coil overs but they are extremely expensive and im just not at that point yet i dont think

Good coilovers are not cheap, but worth the money.

It's been a while since I've looked into control arm bushings, I'm not sure if whiteline is still selling them for the gen2 front end or not.

 

[gotovato]

Good coilovers are not cheap, but worth the money.

It's been a while since I've looked into control arm bushings, I'm not sure if whiteline is still selling them for the gen2 front end or not.

its appears white line does offer something. sweet! wondering if its worth it
https://whitelineperformance.com/collections/all/products/w53286-bushing-kit


interms of coil overs that dont suck, there isnt much out there. ive been attracted to BC since they offer custom spring rates and valving but ive been told its china brand and its not worth the $3000 Canadian dollars.

This leaves JRZ. really nothing to say about JRZ other then $$$$. will probably be a forever setup though but again, im just not sure im there yet

 

[gotovato]

Well, the car has been brought out for the season. prep for the track season started last week.
New brakes front and rear, hawk HP+ pads and stop tech slotted rotors, bled with stop tech 660 fluid.

Mishimoto oil cooler has been installed, went with a setrab sandwich plate as i needed a thermostat and the kit i had didnt include a thermostatic sandwich plate. (will get pics)

SPC rear camber arms have been installed and rear camber brought from -2.5 to -1.5

currently the car sits at a buddies shop while he works on the exhaust. yesterday we pulled the turbo back and started working on it. the plan is to cut the factory taper off my cobb downpipe where it goes from 3" to 2.5" and weld in place a 3" vband which will continue on to a 3" magna flow straight through muffler, all the way back to a single exit.



Gen 2 muffler looks like restriction, inlet side of it is cooked



3" vband welded to cobb downpipe


found this little surprise while pulling the turbo back, looks like turbo is leaking between the exhaust housing and center section. not sure how this happens? my guess is the bolts got a little loose. hopefully an easy fix




my plan for now is to continue on with the exhaust, get it done, then deal with the turbo. again, heres hoping all we have to
do is tighten up the bolts and good to go

First track day was supposed to be may 4th, i prepaid on saturday, on sunday i found my leaky turbo. looks like i wont make my first track day of the season

 

[gotovato]

Well. I’ve found the cause to my leak. Looks like I’ll need an new exhaust housing. Now do I go with another iwg atp housing ? Or do I send it on the atp ewg housing?

This is some crap news.

 

[gotovato]

Well, ive got a few parts together now for the reassembly of the turbo, as well as got some other work done this weekend




first off, this is the new setup im going with. ATP EWG hot side, going to have that good boost control, as well as a larger .72 A/R hot side, Tial MV-S 38mm waste gate



got some progress on my exhaust here, about 75% completed, should have it done next weekend.
Still needs to have the rear section done up, its going to just be single exit, nice and simple.


Also installed my damond full EGR delete kit as well as deleted the TB coolant lines. This is where im at now. next weekend im hoping my buddy has the exhaust completely welded together, and the rear section completed, then we'll reinstall the turbo with its new setup, and make a dump pipe for the waste gate.

Currently i have the battery and battery box out, considering relocating it to the trunk? ill have to look into everything needed to mount it safely so i can pass tech inspection at the track. i think relocating it will give me nicer weight distribution as well as way more room up front.

still a nice list of stuff needed to be completed to get the car back on the road, hoping its done before the end of may!

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Are you routing the EWG dump back into the downpipe?

I've seen guys that dump it onto the subframe for ease of install, but I've never liked the idea of throwing hot exhaust at the steering rack.

 

[gotovato]

Are you routing the EWG dump back into the downpipe?

I've seen guys that dump it onto the subframe for ease of install, but I've never liked the idea of throwing hot exhaust at the steering rack.

so i wont be routing it back into the downpipe, i mentioned to my buddy its probably easier for him if we just dump it.

i did think about positioning of the dump to as i want to avoid burning things so we'll make sure to take care of where it exits, ideally behind the sub frame.

with the WG being on the exhaust housing pointing down already, it shouldnt be too much stress to extend the dump past the sub frame

 

[gotovato]

Exhaust is just about done now. needs final welding, and i need to figure out what im going to do for the tip? suggestions?



3" vband from the downpipe all the way back

 

[SupersixEVO]

Good work, man. Looks great! I wish I could make my own CBE.
As for the exhaust tip, definitely a 4-4.5 inch Tip for sure. I would do an angle cut as well. I really like the look of angle cut exhaust tips. I would also keep it simple with a brushed finish but polished finish is cool too. Not a fan of Blue burned tip look, to each there own though.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I vote a can of green beans as the tip. If it gets banged up, just eat another and bam. More material to work with.

 

[gotovato]

I vote a can of green beans as the tip. If it gets banged up, just eat another and bam. More material to work with.

LOL. honestly, i was on the fence about doing something silly like that, cause why not!
[doublepost=1557489291][/doublepost]

Good work, man. Looks great! I wish I could make my own CBE.
As for the exhaust tip, definitely a 4-4.5 inch Tip for sure. I would do an angle cut as well. I really like the look of angle cut exhaust tips. I would also keep it simple with a brushed finish but polished finish is cool too. Not a fan of Blue burned tip look, to each there own though.

thanks man! yea im not sure what im going to do, been looking around for 4" tips, maybe ill go into a few local exhaust shops and see what they have. probably something simple and polished, definitely angle cut. was trying to see what amazon offered but could only find clamp on akrapovic stuff.