Out of curiosity does anyone have the oil specification table from the owner's manual handy? I'm curious to know what it says for severe duty.
street car gone road race
- Thread starter gotovato
- Start date
- Watchers 44
I'm glad to see my plan worked on selling you a failsafe kit that broke. Get rekt nerd.
Glad to see it's being put to good use. I'm going to be buying another soon to get set up.
What vent pod did you use?
Also like mentioned above, I was simply going to wire it in w/ my EBCS to dump the BOV when triggered. Interesting way you have it.
Glad to see it's being put to good use. I'm going to be buying another soon to get set up.
What vent pod did you use?
Also like mentioned above, I was simply going to wire it in w/ my EBCS to dump the BOV when triggered. Interesting way you have it.
gotovato
Greenie Member
this is one of the main reasons ive been using redline 5w40. it has an hths of 4.4, which is crazy high compared to everything else ive looked at. the redline 5w30 is only rated at 3.7 hths though. i think im probably gonna stick with the 5w40. seems like the best bet? they also have a 5w50 with an hths of 5.0. thats seriously lol. once im able to get some better data...when its hot out or when i can get on track ill be able to see how my oil pressure looks when the oil is hot. this will be interesting
gotovato
Greenie Member
lol yea thanks!
vent pod i used http://www.therpmstore.com/ventpod-single-gauge-pod-for-mazda-3-/-mazdaspeed-3.html
it needs to be modified to fit the gen 2 vent..i bought mine locally used and already modified. there was a link on the rpm store site on a how-to for the modification but its a link to the other forum which as you know....aint around.
as for the failsafe, reason i wired it up to open the bov is because if you lose the line to your WG and overboost cutting the EBCS isnt going to do anything for you. i know you're built so maybe youre not too worried about over boosting. Both Nishan and Freektune mention to wire it up the way i have. makes sense?
also innovate care package came, free of charge. Great warranty service. New o2 sensor and an o2 sensor heat sink
Last edited:
gotovato
Greenie Member
i have the guys name but he didnt have a title in his signature so not sure who he is at red line. He seemed pretty knowledgeable though and i definitely questioned him on switching to a 5w30 oil
gotovato
Greenie Member
i tried to find this in the manual, all i got was 5w-30. nothing about severe duty
Awafrican
Moderator
Edit: this? 5w30
Weird that no severe duty is listed, other cars of mine have had weights listed for cold weather and towing/severe duty. I guess since there is no listed towing capacity there would be no listing
gotovato
Greenie Member
Update!
Picked up my car from the shop last night after the alignment was finally done.
first time driving on the new suspension.
I upgraded from 4 year old ST coilovers with no damper adjustment, 6.8k front springs and 4k rear springs, to Bilstein b16, which have a 7k spring rate all around.
New front control arms went in, with power flex race(instead of street) bushings.
Alignment is 3* of camber up front, 0 toe, caster I don’t remember. Rear camber is set at 1.25*, 0 toe.
These specs are almost the same as before. Before I was running 1.6* rear camber and a little toe out up front. The toe out from my previous alignment definitely made a different for turn in response but at speed, in a straight line, the car would definitely walk around a little, almost a little nervous feeling.
initial impressions for the new setup,
FIRM. RESPONSIVE. I’d say stiff but it just doesn’t beat you up. It absorbs. Eats bumps. High speed stability is impressive(partially due to the 0 toe I’m sure). Squat under acceleration is far less then before. Much less noticeable.
These are my initial thoughts after a rather boring drive home. Will be trying it out more on some of my favorite backroads this weekend. Then I can try and give some sort of a review...maybe.
Picked up my car from the shop last night after the alignment was finally done.
first time driving on the new suspension.
I upgraded from 4 year old ST coilovers with no damper adjustment, 6.8k front springs and 4k rear springs, to Bilstein b16, which have a 7k spring rate all around.
New front control arms went in, with power flex race(instead of street) bushings.
Alignment is 3* of camber up front, 0 toe, caster I don’t remember. Rear camber is set at 1.25*, 0 toe.
These specs are almost the same as before. Before I was running 1.6* rear camber and a little toe out up front. The toe out from my previous alignment definitely made a different for turn in response but at speed, in a straight line, the car would definitely walk around a little, almost a little nervous feeling.
initial impressions for the new setup,
FIRM. RESPONSIVE. I’d say stiff but it just doesn’t beat you up. It absorbs. Eats bumps. High speed stability is impressive(partially due to the 0 toe I’m sure). Squat under acceleration is far less then before. Much less noticeable.
These are my initial thoughts after a rather boring drive home. Will be trying it out more on some of my favorite backroads this weekend. Then I can try and give some sort of a review...maybe.
gotovato
Greenie Member
My Simple Suspension Setup
Bilstein b16 coilovers, CS camber plates, SPC rear camber arms, power flex control arm bushings upfront, white line rear sway bar on the softer setting, aggressive alignment.
Bilstein b16 coilovers, CS camber plates, SPC rear camber arms, power flex control arm bushings upfront, white line rear sway bar on the softer setting, aggressive alignment.
well, first impressions of pushing the setup are in. all i can saw is WOW. the difference was so much more then i was expecting. there will probably be a lot to read here...let me begin,
first off...expensive coilovers are usually expensive for a reason, i think we can all agree on this. I always knew/heard the good things, but this is my first time experiencing it first hand.
the ride quality is insane. they are smoother, and less annoying then my ST coilovers were even with the bils having a higher spring rate. the high speed compression of these dampers is unbelievable. The STs would be jarring under high speed bumps, youd feel it in your spine. these simply...absorb. they dampen. no crashing over quick bumps, just absorb and carry on. its really impressive considering how firm the car feels. the car corners flat as hell, doesnt do any weird sketchy shit at speed. The STs would have almost a skipping feeling when moving quickly over less then ideal roads, like the front tires were losing contact with the ground. Now the car just feels connected.
low speed compression is as expected, amazing. i didnt have an issue with the low speed compression of the STs but they just transferred weight too quickly(no dampening adjustment). this gives you issues under hard acceleration, like a 3rd gear corner exit, and issues under hard braking, like the rear end squirming around and getting wild.
under acceleration at mid corner/exit, i can feel the diff locking up, when i let off, i can feel it unlock. i never really noticed this before. The theory here is with the stiffer rear spring, and more control over weight transfer you are keeping the front end planted. i had big complaints about my LSD sucking, roasting tire at the track/backroads during corner exit(right hander, front inside tire gets unloaded and just roasts endlessly). This now seems to be under control with the new coilovers, the front just stays glued and connected, the term "on rails" comes to mind. Car just goes where the wheel is pointed, and pulls itself out. the increased G forces are felt, and were noticed by my almost car sick girlfriend after this little shake down.
overall, my mods as of late have been centered around grip, and driver feel. the car feels fantastic, it handles very well, the brakes are as insane as ever, and it is an absolute blast to drive, the response is amazing. at this point, id like to do a damond tmm, and just enjoy.
First time ever exploring these roads, they were real nice, not much low speed testing but meh, it was still great fun. i have some thoughts added into the video explaining how it feels and im sure youll be able to tell, i was quite excited about the upgrade.
ride height, 0 rubbing anywhere
front
rear
gotovato
Greenie Member
Well, minor update. Damond tmm arrived, and I installed it the following weekend.
Was pretty straight forward, no major drama.
HUGE difference in how the car feels. Shifts are more direct, more “crisp” as they say. No longer feeling any slop in drive train, where as before I could feel the movement, specially under power/hard downshifts. So that’s amazing. Definitely adds more driver feel to the car.
The sounds you hear with all 3 mounts done though...damn lol. I can hear the trans whine clearly now, and gear rattle or clutch noise or whatever it is, it’s loud AF now lol. But that’s ok with me.
Did some fresh trans fluid as well, I use Miller oils 75w90. Kinda a smaller brand, maybe less well known but I switched to it from redline last year before the track season and the difference was immediately noticeable after a few hot laps on track. No notchy 4-3 down shift like I was having with the redline. My guess is this is to do with how the fluid handles heat.
Aside from that, I’ve been cruising the car in the 30c heat(86f). Oil temp, with my oil cooler block off still installed peaked at 240f which is pretty impressive given the driving I was doing. Excited to test on track hopefully soon.
My homemade oil drain line has begun to leak again, to the point where it’s leaving small drops on the ground. Car has been parked while I await my fancy new drain line from mazdaspeed wire tuck on Facebook.
Might try and make it to the track next weekend if I can get that drain line installed once it arrives. I’m sure that’ll be a no fun job lol
Was pretty straight forward, no major drama.
HUGE difference in how the car feels. Shifts are more direct, more “crisp” as they say. No longer feeling any slop in drive train, where as before I could feel the movement, specially under power/hard downshifts. So that’s amazing. Definitely adds more driver feel to the car.
The sounds you hear with all 3 mounts done though...damn lol. I can hear the trans whine clearly now, and gear rattle or clutch noise or whatever it is, it’s loud AF now lol. But that’s ok with me.
Did some fresh trans fluid as well, I use Miller oils 75w90. Kinda a smaller brand, maybe less well known but I switched to it from redline last year before the track season and the difference was immediately noticeable after a few hot laps on track. No notchy 4-3 down shift like I was having with the redline. My guess is this is to do with how the fluid handles heat.
Aside from that, I’ve been cruising the car in the 30c heat(86f). Oil temp, with my oil cooler block off still installed peaked at 240f which is pretty impressive given the driving I was doing. Excited to test on track hopefully soon.
My homemade oil drain line has begun to leak again, to the point where it’s leaving small drops on the ground. Car has been parked while I await my fancy new drain line from mazdaspeed wire tuck on Facebook.
Might try and make it to the track next weekend if I can get that drain line installed once it arrives. I’m sure that’ll be a no fun job lol
gotovato
Greenie Member
UPDATE!
installed my new oil drain line from mazdaspeed wiretuck, and what a pain in the ass this install was. damn.
my old homemade oil line was cooked and definitely had to go though,
new line,
new line installed(terrible picture)
FINALLY made it out to the track, and i have some real results here.
first off, suspension feels amazing. its incredible the difference. the car feels more planted, gripped up, and less like a boat leaning all over. Body roll has been decreased significantly. no crazy dive under hard braking, no crazy lift at corner exit. still picking up some wheel spin at exit but that may be down to my throttle modulation. still need to iron corn exits out. im no longer bottoming out under trail braking in a few spots like i was before, so thats a huge win!!
Brakes held up amazingly well also. no signs of fade, no lack of stopping power for confidence. i was braking way too early, and slowing down too quickly. ill have to re-calibrate myself to the new stopping power.
now the not so great news,
OIL TEMPS. it was a warm day, 30c(86f) and the sun was just cooking.
2 hard laps, 270f+ oil temps. like shit. real quick, do a cool down lap, and temps drop but even one lap after and thats it we're back to 270f+.
oil pressure would seriously eat it at those temps, im talking 15psi on idle, and 45-50psi in the upper rpms.
now ive done some reading around on the topic and it seems like pressure is either there, or it isnt there. the value itself means very little. ive read 10psi for 1k rpm, ive read modern engines with modern oils have protection all the way down to as low as 5psi per 1k rpm. i do run the redline 5w40 which has a crazy high HTHS rating, which is real important in these high heat situations.
after cooling down the car and parking it for about 20-30 minutes, oil temps dropped to 190, and pressure was back up to a more comfortable value. fought with overheating oil all day though. like non stop.
this now makes me think, last year, before i installed the gauge, how HOT was i running my oil to? how low was my pressure getting to? i would do full 20-25 minute sessions and just send it non stop. so...thats scary lol.
at this point im looking into a bigger core, significantly bigger. something like these,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8949
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8962
im also considering switching to a 5w50 for track days. not sure on that yet though. its clear my little 10 row oil cooler just isnt enough. ive said it before in this thread, but the heat a car sees on the street, is nowhere NEAR the heat a car sees on track. its not even a little bit close. at all.
this said, when i install one of those big cores, ill probably go back to a thermostatic sandwich plate, and have to install my sensors a different way.
suggestions on where i could mount a massive 25 row core? im thinking infront of my fmic? maybe?
another issue i encountered, i was losing fuel pressure past 4k rpm, hpfp dropping from 1700-1800 down to 900. my afr's would go directly to 14+. my failsafe was going off saving me there, thankfully. but i need to address this now. ive been told it could be the autotech internals sticking together, or fusing together. ive been told to pull them apart, and inspect. they may need a cleaning, or hopefully not, a replacing.
ideas?
some pictures from the day, i didnt have my gopro mount so no videos unfortunately, hunted down this mustang GT, as well as a nice C7. ill take that in my overheating hot hatch, not bad.
look at that, massive suspension compression. love it
well thats all for now.
installed my new oil drain line from mazdaspeed wiretuck, and what a pain in the ass this install was. damn.
my old homemade oil line was cooked and definitely had to go though,
new line,
new line installed(terrible picture)
FINALLY made it out to the track, and i have some real results here.
first off, suspension feels amazing. its incredible the difference. the car feels more planted, gripped up, and less like a boat leaning all over. Body roll has been decreased significantly. no crazy dive under hard braking, no crazy lift at corner exit. still picking up some wheel spin at exit but that may be down to my throttle modulation. still need to iron corn exits out. im no longer bottoming out under trail braking in a few spots like i was before, so thats a huge win!!
Brakes held up amazingly well also. no signs of fade, no lack of stopping power for confidence. i was braking way too early, and slowing down too quickly. ill have to re-calibrate myself to the new stopping power.
now the not so great news,
OIL TEMPS. it was a warm day, 30c(86f) and the sun was just cooking.
2 hard laps, 270f+ oil temps. like shit. real quick, do a cool down lap, and temps drop but even one lap after and thats it we're back to 270f+.
oil pressure would seriously eat it at those temps, im talking 15psi on idle, and 45-50psi in the upper rpms.
now ive done some reading around on the topic and it seems like pressure is either there, or it isnt there. the value itself means very little. ive read 10psi for 1k rpm, ive read modern engines with modern oils have protection all the way down to as low as 5psi per 1k rpm. i do run the redline 5w40 which has a crazy high HTHS rating, which is real important in these high heat situations.
after cooling down the car and parking it for about 20-30 minutes, oil temps dropped to 190, and pressure was back up to a more comfortable value. fought with overheating oil all day though. like non stop.
this now makes me think, last year, before i installed the gauge, how HOT was i running my oil to? how low was my pressure getting to? i would do full 20-25 minute sessions and just send it non stop. so...thats scary lol.
at this point im looking into a bigger core, significantly bigger. something like these,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8949
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8962
im also considering switching to a 5w50 for track days. not sure on that yet though. its clear my little 10 row oil cooler just isnt enough. ive said it before in this thread, but the heat a car sees on the street, is nowhere NEAR the heat a car sees on track. its not even a little bit close. at all.
this said, when i install one of those big cores, ill probably go back to a thermostatic sandwich plate, and have to install my sensors a different way.
suggestions on where i could mount a massive 25 row core? im thinking infront of my fmic? maybe?
another issue i encountered, i was losing fuel pressure past 4k rpm, hpfp dropping from 1700-1800 down to 900. my afr's would go directly to 14+. my failsafe was going off saving me there, thankfully. but i need to address this now. ive been told it could be the autotech internals sticking together, or fusing together. ive been told to pull them apart, and inspect. they may need a cleaning, or hopefully not, a replacing.
ideas?
some pictures from the day, i didnt have my gopro mount so no videos unfortunately, hunted down this mustang GT, as well as a nice C7. ill take that in my overheating hot hatch, not bad.
look at that, massive suspension compression. love it
well thats all for now.
Last edited:
Nice to hear the new bilsteins are working great.
Check your Autotechs, if they are fusing you will see severe scoring on them. If there is no scoring, check your oil for a heavy fuel smell. If your oil has a really strong smell, it might be the screw seals.
Check your Autotechs, if they are fusing you will see severe scoring on them. If there is no scoring, check your oil for a heavy fuel smell. If your oil has a really strong smell, it might be the screw seals.
I'm glad you're dealing with all of these problems so then I know how to avoid them when I eventually track my Pu LOLOL.
gotovato
Greenie Member
oohh thank you for this! ive been noticing some fuel smell lately, but didn't think too much of it. i definitely need to pull the internals out and take a look. if they're scored i guess it'll be time for another set of autotechs? and the screws seals...need some resealing im guessing?
gotovato
Greenie Member
LOL. no problem, all the info will be here!!
The oil cooling definitely seems like the challenging bit. I still need to get a gauge set up for my car.
gotovato
Greenie Member
i will definitely be going with a larger core, probably the 25 row from setrab, and itll probably just get mounted directly infront of my fmic. is what it is. oil temps were WAY out of hand on track. on the street, its a non issue though
