street car gone road race
- Thread starter gotovato
- Start date
- Watchers 44
gotovato
Greenie Member
Considering the morning it was windy and about 18-20c it was pretty cool. BAT’s were good, oil temp is always good. Even coolant temp was fine. Maxed out about 220 on coolant, 240 oil, and maybe 140-150 on the bats.
The afternoon the sun came out and it got warm. Had my bats increase averaging around 150 and my coolant peaked 250f living around 230-240. Oil always seems to live right at 240 which is perfect.
Mr.Gregg
Greenie Member
150 is still pretty high for BAT's though, isn't it? I've been getting just over 100 on the stock tmic, although you're putting down waaay more power than I am. What BAT'S were you seeing before installing the big boi oil cooler?
gotovato
Greenie Member
So it is too high way too high. I hate it but over winter I’ll move the oil cooler behind the fmic and I have the GV grill to install, which then opens me up nicely to make some good ducting. Prior to the oil cooler install my bats would peak around 130-140 and live around there(this is on track, lap after lap). So that’ll be address over the off season. High bats rob me of what little power I have!! Lol
gotovato
Greenie Member
little update.
installed my GV grill...swapped out some shitty tbolt clamps that snapped with some shitty gear clamps that slipped and cut up my couplers, went back to new tbolt clamps. hopefully these dont fucking fail. literally TWO tbolt clamps broke on me, same time same day. junk
recent vdyno after my exhaust leak was fixed up, just grabbed this log, powers back and feeling good.
it aint much but its all i got. my GT3071r is ready to FLY lol, so much reverse taper/ 94% IDC in this log
Access port has always read around 25-26psi which i know pretty much 100% is wrong, my innovate gauge reads a peak of 22.6psi which seems more realistic. either the scalars are off or my nice 3.5bar CS map sensor is failing. boo
now for the good stuff...
i installed the GV grill
nice surprise when i pulled my bumper off...
the line was basically resting on that bolt. JEEEEEEZ. quick ziptie took care of that. also yes..the one fitting there is leaking. ive learned in life no matter how much you spend on fancy AN fittings and oringed fittings theyre alllllllllll gonna leak at least once. its not major so im gonna leave it for now
before, the look we all love to hate
after...the look i honestly am NOT in love with...i like my cars to appear stock AF...always have...i do love the ducting i can now build and the infinitely improved airflow..or "front end surface area" of my coolers that is exposed. that sure is nice
fitment on the grill is OK, maybe like an 7.5-8/10, quality is the same
i really like my block off plates, they looks nice but my IC is too damn low(because 4 years ago when this started i wanted to retain ALLLLL of my oem crash bar so this is what the shop had to do, also the opening in the OEM grill is down that low...
i need to either cut the crash bar more and paint it, or build a new crash bar all together. when the motor comes out the front end will get repackaged. oil cooler either moving behind the fmic, or else where maybe...
something shitty here also, never ending pains in the ass. will need some ABS plastic, or plexiglass, or honestly im probably just gonne send it with corrugated plastic and seal this disgrace up. i almost took the grill off when i saw this
that fucking gap is literally mocking me. "you want improved cooling???????????? fuck you you cant have it"
as im sure anyone looking at this thread knows, this is like literal POO for cooling. but no matter, pretty simple fix. just seal it and good to go. not sure if maybe i can get a front lip to help pretty it up also maybe? but yea this will be a this week project maybe.
as far as cooling goes i cruised to the city for some family activities yesterday(Canadian thanksgiving) and my 1hr+ hwy cruise i did a couple of HARD 4-5 pulls, make sure nothing would fly off or come apart.
coolant temp lived nailed at 181f. it didnt move. oil temp lived at 130-140f. usually im up around 180 cruise. it was 68f outside so not hot at all. either way the cooling is definitely better, on the street anyways.
last thing i have to diagnose/fuck with is this wheel shake ive been dealing with ALL SUMMER.
give some throttle then lift, wheel jolts. apply light throttle? wheel jolts. WTF. im thinking passenger side control arm after doing a basic check. just replaced both control arms beginning of the season though so wtf??
installed my GV grill...swapped out some shitty tbolt clamps that snapped with some shitty gear clamps that slipped and cut up my couplers, went back to new tbolt clamps. hopefully these dont fucking fail. literally TWO tbolt clamps broke on me, same time same day. junk
recent vdyno after my exhaust leak was fixed up, just grabbed this log, powers back and feeling good.
it aint much but its all i got. my GT3071r is ready to FLY lol, so much reverse taper/ 94% IDC in this log
Access port has always read around 25-26psi which i know pretty much 100% is wrong, my innovate gauge reads a peak of 22.6psi which seems more realistic. either the scalars are off or my nice 3.5bar CS map sensor is failing. boo
now for the good stuff...
i installed the GV grill
nice surprise when i pulled my bumper off...
the line was basically resting on that bolt. JEEEEEEZ. quick ziptie took care of that. also yes..the one fitting there is leaking. ive learned in life no matter how much you spend on fancy AN fittings and oringed fittings theyre alllllllllll gonna leak at least once. its not major so im gonna leave it for now
before, the look we all love to hate
after...the look i honestly am NOT in love with...i like my cars to appear stock AF...always have...i do love the ducting i can now build and the infinitely improved airflow..or "front end surface area" of my coolers that is exposed. that sure is nice
fitment on the grill is OK, maybe like an 7.5-8/10, quality is the same
i really like my block off plates, they looks nice but my IC is too damn low(because 4 years ago when this started i wanted to retain ALLLLL of my oem crash bar so this is what the shop had to do, also the opening in the OEM grill is down that low...
i need to either cut the crash bar more and paint it, or build a new crash bar all together. when the motor comes out the front end will get repackaged. oil cooler either moving behind the fmic, or else where maybe...
something shitty here also, never ending pains in the ass. will need some ABS plastic, or plexiglass, or honestly im probably just gonne send it with corrugated plastic and seal this disgrace up. i almost took the grill off when i saw this
that fucking gap is literally mocking me. "you want improved cooling???????????? fuck you you cant have it"
as im sure anyone looking at this thread knows, this is like literal POO for cooling. but no matter, pretty simple fix. just seal it and good to go. not sure if maybe i can get a front lip to help pretty it up also maybe? but yea this will be a this week project maybe.
as far as cooling goes i cruised to the city for some family activities yesterday(Canadian thanksgiving) and my 1hr+ hwy cruise i did a couple of HARD 4-5 pulls, make sure nothing would fly off or come apart.
coolant temp lived nailed at 181f. it didnt move. oil temp lived at 130-140f. usually im up around 180 cruise. it was 68f outside so not hot at all. either way the cooling is definitely better, on the street anyways.
last thing i have to diagnose/fuck with is this wheel shake ive been dealing with ALL SUMMER.
give some throttle then lift, wheel jolts. apply light throttle? wheel jolts. WTF. im thinking passenger side control arm after doing a basic check. just replaced both control arms beginning of the season though so wtf??
Last edited:
gotovato
Greenie Member
it is low AF yes. for cruising its fine but i wouldnt beat on it at this oil temp. i have a 180f thermostat in the sandwich plate but since oil is still flowing, i think the oilcooler is just too OP, and its just overcooling even with the thermostat.
Two suggestions
Make a plywood splitter for the front end. Seals the gap and should help push more air through the grill
Make a block off for the oil cooler that you can put on when you aren't at the track.
Make a plywood splitter for the front end. Seals the gap and should help push more air through the grill
Make a block off for the oil cooler that you can put on when you aren't at the track.
gotovato
Greenie Member
A plywood splitter is definitely something I’ve thought about I just have like 0 wood working tools. But this is a good idea for sure.
Oil cooler block off would be nice too. Oil temps are NEVER an issue on the street
That soft jerk in the steering wheel doesnt seem like a big deal. From that quick video it seems like it could be tramlining or some kind of sway bar preload reaction.
gotovato
Greenie Member
hopefully its nothing? i just did both control arms at the beginning of the season. its pretty annoying though, apply throttle or lifting off throttle will give me that shake
Check your ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar endlinks for preload. Something has slack, or something is pulling the rack when you let go. Did you ever block off your hood scoop?
gotovato
Greenie Member
definitely something fishy going on there.
i have yet to test the hood scoop block off. every single time i forget to bring painters tape. this saturday i have an event and ill bring some tape and do some testing!
Surely you can find someone with a drill and a circular saw
gotovato
Greenie Member
Yea. Thinking I have a buddy I may be able to get to help me out. A plywood splitter is definitely up on the list now. I just wonder how it’ll change the balance of the car. Should be interesting
I wouldn't expect it to generate much downforce you will be mounting it relatively high off the ground due I to andride height and street use and don't expect that you will have it sticking out more than 6 inches
gotovato
Greenie Member
I need to look at class rules before I do a splitter. I plan to compete next season and I’m already at the very top of my current class in terms of mods, so anything extra may push me up a class. May have to just seal it up for cooling and call it a day.
macdiesel
Greenie Member
what brand control arms?
gotovato
Greenie Member
moog brand. It was either moog or oem from the dealer
macdiesel
Greenie Member
Your video didn’t come up on my phone so I wasn’t able to see the exact concern your dealing with.
There’s something about the Moog LCA’s. I’ve had nothing but problems with them. The bushings is way softer than the oems. It’s almost like they’re mazda3 LCA’s with different ball joints.
I was able to stand on the rear bushing bracket of nearly new moons and freely move the arm back and forth whereas OEM with 60k still had a lot of resistance.
I just put 2 pairs out by the curb for scrapers.
