street car gone road race
- Thread starter gotovato
- Start date
- Watchers 44
My original DM rail brackets also broke. Couldn't believe it. Luckily my PI system wasn't running, or even fully plumbed, at the time. Glad you caught that before hitting the track!
gotovato
Greenie Member
Yea what a pain. This is the second fuel rail related issue I’ve had so far. Both cases would’ve been a fire. Once the new brackets go in I’ll be leaving it for a while. Just to make sure it’s all good before plumbing
I don't have pi yet but this is the sort of things I worry about when thinking about running a dd with pi lol I might even make some new brackets for mine since it has happened to more than one person on here apparently.
It was probably 2am when this popped into my head...
I was looking at the aluminum brackets currently on your car. They are both cracked at the mounting point. I think the cracking is due to the pressure required to keep the pi injectors in tight, coupled with vibration and heat. The flat bar you have to make brackets might not have the rigidity to keep adequate pressure on the injectors. This could be remedied by welding a gusset at 90° to the flat bar creating a "T" shaped bracket. If there was the ability to mount 1 or 2 brackets on the other side of the rail, that would also work if there were bosses to bolt to.
Engineers will know better, but I'd hate to see fuel leaking while balls deep in a run.
Did you go to Bowmanville? or Cayuga? If I ever get there, I'll look you up for some lessons if you dont mind making suggestions on my technique in my AWD whale, lol
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I was looking at the aluminum brackets currently on your car. They are both cracked at the mounting point. I think the cracking is due to the pressure required to keep the pi injectors in tight, coupled with vibration and heat. The flat bar you have to make brackets might not have the rigidity to keep adequate pressure on the injectors. This could be remedied by welding a gusset at 90° to the flat bar creating a "T" shaped bracket. If there was the ability to mount 1 or 2 brackets on the other side of the rail, that would also work if there were bosses to bolt to.
Engineers will know better, but I'd hate to see fuel leaking while balls deep in a run.
Did you go to Bowmanville? or Cayuga? If I ever get there, I'll look you up for some lessons if you dont mind making suggestions on my technique in my AWD whale, lol
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gotovato
Greenie Member
Hey thanks for the input! My buddy who’s helping me with the brackets is pretty crafty. If we need to weld a T like you suggested we definitely can and will. The idea behind the steel is it won’t fatigue like aluminum. Won’t crack and heat shouldn’t bother it none either. I guess we’ll see. This weekend we’ll attempt it.
I was out at Cayuga(Toronto Motorsports park) on Saturday. You’re definitely welcome to come out with us sometime. I’ve been out in my buddies ms6 giving him some coaching. His car is lightly modified and even on crappy coilovers it did surprisingly well!
That AWD lyfe bro..
gotovato
Greenie Member
Haha it helps...if you know how to lolThat AWD lyfe bro..
Honestly the original brackets would have probably been strong enough if the hadn't been drilled for lightness
gotovato
Greenie Member
I was honestly thinking the same thing. See what happens when you build for style vs for function?? Shit
If they just didn't drill the one hole that it cracked at it would probably be fine.
Redneck me would think about filling the holes in the new ones with jb weld and using them
Redneck me would think about filling the holes in the new ones with jb weld and using them
gotovato
Greenie Member
My first thought when I read that email was “ok wtf can I fill these with to make them stronger” JB weld popped into mind. I will do this for sure. It ain’t pretty but none of my setup is. Functional however? Yes please.
Jb weld is runny enough when you first mix it that it shouldn't be an issue getting the holes filled completely
gotovato
Greenie Member
Yup. I think it’ll be straight forward. Little messy but no big. I received confirmation jmf shipped out my brackets. First class priority express. Hopefully they come soon.
gotovato
Greenie Member
Reached out to autotech yesterday about my hpfp and it seeming broken. They asked for pictures. I sent them. They are now telling me to send the internals in for inspection and buddy goes “we will just warranty these for you”.
well that’s some customer service from both autotech and jmf. Damn. Nice.
well that’s some customer service from both autotech and jmf. Damn. Nice.
Kraze
Greenie Member
Nice! I'd still make sure to clean/lube the spill valve. I did that for mine, and the spill valve internals didn't even seem dirty or gummed up, but cleaning them anyway and lubing/reassembling them seemed to be what did the trick and corrected my fuel pressure issues.
gotovato
Greenie Member
Just cleaned the spill valve. Brand new from dealer fprv installed as well. The issue is my internals were showing signs of heavy wear and maybe heat scoring. My spring is also not springy anymore. I can compress it with my fingers so that’s also surely causing issues.
Kraze
Greenie Member
Just went back and looked at the pictures, yeah that looks cooked! What's your plan for the spring then? The Autotech internals don't come with a spring do they?
gotovato
Greenie Member
Oh I have hpfp housings kicking around with stock internals. I’ll steal one of those springs. No big. But I’m more so worried about it happening again. The CS internals include a high tension spring which honestly...seems like something I need in my life. With how the car is used I can almost promise it sees more shit then anyone else on the platform(to my knowledge anyways, basically no one seriously road coursing these cars). On track I am quite merciless often running the car at 260f oil temps for full sessions. As long as all my gauges are reading nice numbers I’m sending it.
to give you an idea the average car will maybe see 240f oil temps on the street and that’s after you do like 4 back to back 4th wot pulls. Otherwise temp isn’t an issue on the street like it is on track. Autotech internals have a history of sticking/seizing up while at wot due to build up of crap, and extreme heat. Apparently the CS internals do not suffer this same fate. This is important to me.
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