StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

Which should I get for Christmas?

  • Big Fmic Core (tr9/10 or equivalent size)

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • EWG conversation for my CST4 setup

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • Rear Diff Mount

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .
#Dilftuned haha No jk sort of.... It's @JohnnyTightlips but I don't think he tunes for people usually. He just is helping me out since my car has been slow for so long and he feels sorry for me lol
 
lol Yes, as long as the roads are good we can tune it but would likely need to touch it up again when it is balls hot out.
Ok that will be great! This weekend I'm planning to hook up pi again and test it all out since I figured out my rough start issues as far as I know. JT, you're a good guy I don't care what anyone says about ya haha :D
 
Well after a bit of a wait and some newly installed aux fuel injectors from Ballenger Motorsports I am set to start tuning my speed.

I need to install a rear diff mount (cpe flex) rear mount. I know my front rear diff mount is probably shot too and am considering buying the stupid front mount too. I just can't believe they are $300 lol @Sho did you have both in your 6? I am aiming for 500whp so feel like it might be necessary haha
 
I have a cpe so that is set as the rear for sure. Not dealing with selling and reordering from jordan but I will get the front mount from him then
 
My rear axles have torn boots but seem to be working fine for the time being. Should I just do the rear diff mounts and send it for a bit so I don't have to spend so much moolah at once again? Lol

I feel I should fix it all really nice but I am tired of spending $2k every tax season to get more stuff fixed. It is working fine but everything is well worn basically.
 
Get yourself a boot clamp tool. Index mark your shaft before you remove it from the diff so you can orientate it during install. CVs are easy to disassemble, just make sure you take it apart and put everything back together exactly...exactly the way it came apart. Parts have to face the same direction, the balls need to be in the exact same pockets as before. Buy a boot kit with a tube of grease. Use the whole tube and coat all parts. Apply any left over grease to the assembly. Reassemble with new boots & clamps then expand and collaps the joint a few times. Install the shaft into diff with a new seal and a new stake nut. If you do it right you will have no vibrations.
 
Get yourself a boot clamp tool. Index mark your shaft before you remove it from the diff so you can orientate it during install. CVs are easy to disassemble, just make sure you take it apart and put everything back together exactly...exactly the way it came apart. Parts have to face the same direction, the balls need to be in the exact same pockets as before. Buy a boot kit with a tube of grease. Use the whole tube and coat all parts. Apply any left over grease to the assembly. Reassemble with new boots & clamps then expand and collaps the joint a few times. Install the shaft into diff with a new seal and a new stake nut. If you do it right you will have no vibrations.
Sounds like you've done a few haha Is it worth doing that over buying new you think? I mean mine are probably well over 100k miles old if not the factory ones. If they're not then they are oem for sure as they have mazda symbols all over them. Would hate to do all that for them to end up breaking. I guess the oem is probably better than an off brand brand new anyway you think?
 
Sounds like you've done a few haha Is it worth doing that over buying new you think? I mean mine are probably well over 100k miles old if not the factory ones. If they're not then they are oem for sure as they have mazda symbols all over them. Would hate to do all that for them to end up breaking. I guess the oem is probably better than an off brand brand new anyway you think?

It depends.. You can inspect for wear.. generally by 100k miles your axles will have enough wear to consider rebuilding, or buying new... Doing a major hp build... I'd say it's better to replace/upgrade as part of preventative maintenance
 
My opinion is OEM axles are commonly better quality than A/M brands. Ive dealt with too many fitment issues and engineering differences to trust them, especially when low priced. However I have found a shop through a friend at my local NAPA that makes custom shafts. They will weld on new cups then heat treat the assembly. Regularly rebuilds are just regrinds which removes the hardened wear surface. For a daily ok, but for a car that sees abuse I would want OEM (aka out of stock) or a reputable upgrade. I will send a rear shaft off to this shop soon and they will let me know if they can build it for 500hp cap. They want one in hand before making the claim, and I have one that needs to be rebuilt anyways.
Plus...You have the benefit of continental free shipping...for that I am green, lol This is commonly what makes buying big parts expensive up here.
 
Ok sweet thx guys. Let me know fs how that works put @SyntheticAtmosphere .

On another note I discovered another issue that isn't hard to fix but annoying. My crank sensor plug wires were showing a while back so I redone the plug with a new one and once done I realized that it fit and was the proper pin amount and placement but it won't click into place. The release clip is different so my sensor decided to come unplugged today on a test drive. :(
Looks like I'll be buying another plug that's oem and rewiring AGAIN lol
 
Ok sweet thx guys. Let me know fs how that works put @SyntheticAtmosphere .

On another note I discovered another issue that isn't hard to fix but annoying. My crank sensor plug wires were showing a while back so I redone the plug with a new one and once done I realized that it fit and was the proper pin amount and placement but it won't click into place. The release clip is different so my sensor decided to come unplugged today on a test drive. :(
Looks like I'll be buying another plug that's oem and rewiring AGAIN lol

zap straps... you can make your own lock...
 
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