Your Intake Manifold and You
- Thread starter AYOUSTIN
- Start date
I agree completely. I've said it before, the only people who *need* a JMF are shooting for quadruple digit power.
Even then I wouldn't. Some poking around the interwebs suggests it takes about 2 CFM per HP, which puts this manifold at over 500 HP before factoring in boost (that's all motor flow capability). The equivalent all motor flow equates to 6.7 liter engine, or the same amount of total flow you'd get at about 57 PSI at 7000 RPM, according to my spreadsheet.
I think it will do most people just fine.
I think it will do most people just fine.
There's no question about it: so long as the appropriate accessories are available for various IC setups, this is far and away the best IM solution. OEM part with all of the testing/reliability that goes along with it, designed for a turbo platform, made by our kissing cousin, Ford, with all of its FoMoCo goodness, likely much, much lower cost than JMF with much lower runner variance, far less likely to heatsoak, far lighter, and other things I'm sure I'm forgetting...
You will still need to run a gasket between the adapter and the head.
Damnit DM, Y U NO BUILD IN GASKET
Because expensive.
Ah, sorry thought you were talking about the adapter, not the mani. Just didn't want to cause any confusion.
They can machine in a groove for a captive gasket on the spacer, just like they did with the TB spacer. Then all you need is the right size o-rings and some grease or petroleum jelly to get them to sit into place as you tighten things down.
The issues is the port's not a concentric shape, machining grooves in would not be cheap as well as the o rings themselves would not be cheap because you can't use a normal o ring since it's not concentric.
I saw it on a YouTube video sponsored by Holley that they used a long o-ring material (which was several feet in length), then the o-ring to length. The same could be done for each port here: cut each o-ring to length for each individual port(s), super glue the ends, then use black permatex at the junction when you bolt it down. This is the exact procedure indicated for the Holley intake manifold where the top and bottom part of the plenum bolts together, seen here:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/30...RiSZEdfd4V9hYgjUrCD1UkWUUrlINKUMT0aAu8G8P8HAQ
This is the legit way to do it, according to the materials they supply and their directions.
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That's for an NA car. And even if someone did boost it, it probably wouldn't hold any boost in the double digits. Forget about 30+ psi
It's still o-ring material, just like on the EB manifold. Pretty sure it'd hold just fine, just like the gaskets on the EB manifold do. If done properly, it's just as strong as any o-ring Ford includes on their manifolds, I'd wager. Did you look at the PDF directions on the link I provided? Maybe it'd give you a better idea. I'll see if I can dig up that YouTube vid.
Edit: Found it. Here, at 9:10
I'm no pro; maybe it wouldn't work, but as long as the o-ring seals to itself well, I really don't understand how it'd be any different than the EB IM gaskets, or the o-ring on the bottom of my Synapse BPV, which holds my 25psi fine, and supposedly can hold over 50. My .02...
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It's like the TB gasket. Not the runners. The runners use a special type of seal, I don't know what it's called. It's like an oring but has a 3 dimensional diamonds in it. It's not a normal oring and I've talked with the guys at DM about it. They've said they're not cheap to make. I personally would not trust a glued oring to hold a bunch of boost. Even moreso, why is it a problem to use the stock gasket?
Ah, I didn't know it's a special gasket. I've seen those x-ring gaskets too that seal twice. Maybe they could be an option?
The reason I brought it up in the first place is above you were talking about gaskets to mate the adapter to the head. The IM to the adapter is already covered by what Ford provides, if I'm understanding correctly. Too bad we don't have close-up pics of the prototype
This is still all theory for most of us.
If you use this RTV type stuff called "The Right Stuff" I guarantee you won't pop it loose. Hell you could use that instead of a gasket on the throttle body and remove the bolts after it cured and it would probably take a very long time to fail even without bolts holding it in. Shit is legit.
