Your Intake Manifold and You

  • Thread starter Thread starter AYOUSTIN
  • Start date Start date
  • Watchers Watchers 38
When I made that statement earlier I had looked at the throttle body rubber gasket thing and found this:
IMAG0545.jpg

Kind of a shit picture but shows why I would think that.
Unfortunately, now that I've checked the head side, I can't find any markings that match this one, so either it's a defect or damage (this is a used manifold) or I'm half right.
 
When I made that statement earlier I had looked at the throttle body rubber gasket thing and found this: Kind of a shit picture but shows why I would think that.
Unfortunately, now that I've checked the head side, I can't find any markings that match this one, so either it's a defect or damage (this is a used manifold) or I'm half right.
The flash and parting line mismatch tell me this gasket was molded as one piece, not extruded or something. I'm not sure what the cross-gasket grooves are because potato. If I had to guess, the groove the gasket goes into has some pointy ribs in it to help retain the gasket in the groove before the parts are assembled, and being in it over time has caused those. Or maybe the gasket was across parting lines in the parts or something. Also if you inspect the gasket for the gate locations, you might find it's the knitline opposite the gate. That's the last area to fill, and if molding parameters aren't optimized for that shot it would be the first sign.
 
The flash and parting line mismatch tell me this gasket was molded as one piece, not extruded or something. I'm not sure what the cross-gasket grooves are because potato. If I had to guess, the groove the gasket goes into has some pointy ribs in it to help retain the gasket in the groove before the parts are assembled, and being in it over time has caused those. Or maybe the gasket was across parting lines in the parts or something. Also if you inspect the gasket for the gate locations, you might find it's the knitline opposite the gate. That's the last area to fill, and if molding parameters aren't optimized for that shot it would be the first sign.
Yeah, those lines convey injection molding to me too. I still think that with the correct profile of gasket material that a cut/glue and mount with RTV approach would hold boost just fine, so long as the correct materials/sealant are used.
 
Yeah, those lines convey injection molding to me too. I still think that with the correct profile of gasket material that a cut/glue and mount with RTV approach would hold boost just fine, so long as the correct materials/sealant are used.
I think it could perhaps be made to work, or a multiple O-ring approach be made to work, but just using the stock gasket is cheap and easy enough. But sometimes I just can't resist doing overly demanding asian father. LOL
 
I think it could perhaps be made to work, or a multiple O-ring approach be made to work, but just using the stock gasket is cheap and easy enough. But sometimes I just can't resist doing overly demanding asian father. LOL
Stock gaskets are perfect for IM to adapter plate. I'm thinking about the adapter plate to head connection. Is that what you're referring to?
 
Stock gaskets are perfect for IM to adapter plate. I'm thinking about the adapter plate to head connection. Is that what you're referring to?
IM to adapter plate is with the stock FoST manifold gasket. When I say stock gasket I mean the stock 'speed mani-to-head gasket, which it sounds like is the plan for the adapter plate to head (Austin 3:46)
 
I may have missed it in the thread, but the CP-e mani is available for sale on their website. It also can accommodate a 74mm Chrysler throttle body and has provisions for per cylinder PI. You going to flow test it now, @AYOUSTIN ?
 
I may have missed it in the thread, but the CP-e mani is available for sale on their website. It also can accommodate a 74mm Chrysler throttle body and has provisions for per cylinder PI. You going to flow test it now, @AYOUSTIN ?
Wouldn't bother flow testing it...it pops the front cover plate off and looses pressure... unless that's been fixed but as far as I know it's been written off as an option
 
I'm pretty sure the issue was the paper gasket they were using with it. I believe someone made a rubber gasket or rtv or something which seemed to work fine. I'm sure it flows pretty damn good but my issue with it is price. The manifold costs $1000 and the fuel rail costs another $200. We already know the JMF can support quadruple digit power so I don't see any point in spending more money for pretty much no reason. Transient response difference is probably pretty minimal.
 
Pretty sure Justin actually blew the front cover clean off the thing, writing the manifold off completely.

Edit: The vstacks are also very ugly/unfinished... Def a negative in my boat even if they don't affect flow.
 
Wouldn't bother flow testing it...it pops the front cover plate off and looses pressure... unless that's been fixed but as far as I know it's been written off as an option
Though it's conjecture, I'm pretty darn sure that Justin reporting what happened resulted in CP-e fixing it before the final release. Time will tell. Generally, CP-e parts are pretty solid quality.
[doublepost=1493874129][/doublepost]
Pretty sure Justin actually blew the front cover clean off the thing, writing the manifold off completely.

Edit: The vstacks are also very ugly/unfinished... Def a negative in my boat even if they don't affect flow.
I don't care what they look like; I only care about flow/flow balance. And potential access to valves by removing only a plate would be a win.
 
Generally, CP-e parts are pretty solid quality.
They do seem pretty effective at fixing them but they have had their problems. Like the retainer plate screws coming out of the RMM (fixed with loctite in their process), and the user-assembled TMM falling apart ("fixed" with loctite recommendation + retainer plate).

...makes 3 parts on my car that I'm super happy with. Just to jump to the other side of the coin in the same post. Fair and Balanced (TM).
 
Justin was the first batch of production manifolds, it blew because the screws are too small, the material is too thin and the area of thread engagement is too little to provide good clamping.

So basically it is shit.
Sounds like a super-easy fix to me. Drill/tap/use larger fasteners with greater thread engagement. Should it be on the end-user to fix problems like this? No. But is having to think on your feet and come up with custom solutions common in the aftermarket/modding community? Absolutely. And if it flows well and evenly, I'll gladly do so. I will say this: it's too pricey to have issues like that, though. It's pricey regardless.
 
Who would seriously purchase the cp-e manifold when cp-e refuses to release white papers on it and there are cheaper and proven solutions readily available from vendors that don't paint their parts silver and jack up the price 200 bucks?
Not this guy. The FoST piques my interest the most, currently. Interested to see how the CS turns out, though.
 
Back
Top