A discussion on mitigating engine bay heat

Maisonvi said:
I usually pull off the track when I hit 240-245

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Those temps are insane. Good thing you have a built motor. I haven't tracked my car with a larger turbo yet, but the highest temps I saw on my Pu with all of the shrouds/undertray...etc in place when we were at Autobahn was like 207.

I would definitely consider putting all of that shit back on, literally every stock piece you have, and see if it helps. Definitely possible the airflow through your engine bay is fucked because you're missing some airflow/vacuum effect the stock pieces like the undertray somehow promote.

Also, if you've removed the under hood ducting for the TMIC, I'd even throw that back on and see if it makes a difference. After all, it's going to direct airflow on top of the engine and push heat from the manifold/turbo area underneath the car while you're moving.
 
VTMongoose said:
Those temps are insane. Good thing you have a built motor. I haven't tracked my car with a larger turbo yet, but the highest temps I saw on my Pu with all of the shrouds/undertray...etc in place when we were at Autobahn was like 207.

I would definitely consider putting all of that shit back on, literally every stock piece you have, and see if it helps. Definitely possible the airflow through your engine bay is fucked because you're missing some airflow/vacuum effect the stock pieces like the undertray somehow promote.

Also, if you've removed the under hood ducting for the TMIC, I'd even throw that back on and see if it makes a difference. After all, it's going to direct airflow on top of the engine and push heat from the manifold/turbo area underneath the car while you're moving.
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My car always saw 217 at the track, even on the stock motor. The 240 was an "Oh shit" kinda moment. I try and keep it under 230 when Im out. I dont have the underhood ducting anymore, I had a coupler blow on my TMIC way back when and it cracked it to a handful of pieces. Maybe I will look to see about putting some things back on now that Im not working on the car anymore as much.

I do think adding an air dam helped, but Ive only had one evening session with it on so its not the best way to compare.

And really, this motor just runs hot for some reason. If Im in stop and go traffic I see 217 all the time. The fans are the only thing keeping it cool.
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Easter Bunny said:
What weight oil are you running? Heavier oil will run cooler. Though you have to be careful to use a weight appropriate for the typical use so you probably cant go heavier than 50 or 60
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Totally missed this message. Running T6. I have been planning to send it off for analysis after I do a track day to see how its holding up and if its breaking down too much.
 
There is definitely something wrong with the cooling system. I usually see around 190-200 on my racepig. Run the undertray and duct the radiator as much as possible. For coolant, consider running 1 quart of 50/50 coolant, 1/2 bottle of Redline water wetter, and for the remainder use distilled water. I hope you did not leave a rag or piece of tape in a coolant hose or pipe so it is partially blocking coolant flow, would not hurt to check.

How much boost are you pushing? Consider detuning a bit for road racing. Evos have EM in the front so their hood vents work there nicely. For us, if you put hood vents over the EM, at speed you will be most likely pushing air into the engine bay rather than evacuating it.
 
Code Monkey said:
There is definitely something wrong with the cooling system. I usually see around 190-200 on my racepig. Run the undertray and duct the radiator as much as possible. For coolant, consider running 1 quart of 50/50 coolant, 1/2 bottle of Redline water wetter, and for the remainder use distilled water. I hope you did not leave a rag or piece of tape in a coolant hose or pipe so it is partially blocking coolant flow, would not hurt to check.

How much boost are you pushing? Consider detuning a bit for road racing. Evos have EM in the front so their hood vents work there nicely. For us, if you put hood vents over the EM, at speed you will be most likely pushing air into the engine bay rather than evacuating it.
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Im going to re-put all my trays and ducting as best I can. I think a big factor is the TR1035 blocking my radiator. I need to create more ducting for that I think.

I will check the coolant system for any obstructions. I dont think there are any, but cant hurt to look. It runs fine 99% of the time, just when it gets pushed hard or has zero real air movement it climbs.

As far as boost, at the track I just run my 93 tune, so 22 psi. And thats a really good point on the vents and EM placement, didnt even think about that. I really want to do some testing to get real quantitative data that I can relay for the benefit of the community.
 
For some reason I thought you were still on a TMIC. I am not sure if there is enough space to angle the FMIC a bit or even lay flat and have a separate ducting for the IC and the radiator. In any case, with a FMIC make sure to use something like JBR's airdam so that all the air goes through the radiator and not into the engine bay.
 
Code Monkey said:
For some reason I thought you were still on a TMIC. I am not sure if there is enough space to angle the FMIC a bit or even lay flat and have a separate ducting for the IC and the radiator. In any case, with a FMIC make sure to use something like JBR's airdam so that all the air goes through the radiator and not into the engine bay.
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Yeah thats what I was talking about that I used at the evening TNT at the end of last year. Attached is a pic of the one I made. I just dont have enough data to know if it helped or not. I want to get some more ducting around the bottom area too. Im thinking more and more an undertray would help as well.
 

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Easter Bunny said:
The base of the windshield has a higher pressure than the engine bay when the car is moving. The rear weatherstrip should only be removed on drag cars where you sit in the staging lane.

You should put the understray back on.

Turbo blanket, coating on the manifold and some heat shields around the turbo will help too.

Pretty sure you are fmic in which case you should make sure that any radiator shrouding that was removed for the installation of the piping is modified so that in can be replaced.

The idea being that the stock configuration is pretty well designed and the removal of a bunch of small parts from the stock setup can add up to a big difference in temps.
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This.

I think that undertray (in conjunction with the hood seal) does an awful lot to pull hot air out of the engine bay. It's not just there to get in your way. ;)
 
Raider said:
And details on temp fvariations? I tore mine off and gave it away. Because all it did was get in the way.

I do have the Raider's JRB Damn (shocking) to prevent crap from falling into the pit of doom. Guess the diverter panel was an added bonus.
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I don't have any data for this car. I'm still running my undertray.

For a car that doesn't get beaten on around a track (even with a bigger turbo, FMIC, etc.) I wouldn't even necessarily expect to see much of a difference - but a ~20 minute balls-to-the-wall track session is an entirely different animal, where even the OEM configuration approaches maximum heat capacity. Add another 100 hp or so and it's like trying to bail out a rowboat with a foot-wide hole in the bottom using a Solo cup.

A quick Google search will yield you several discussion about this very thing, and there are enough guys saying that they've seen a difference in underhood temps with it on that I'm going to believe it unless shown otherwise (especially since the physics makes sense).

For instance:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=402655
 
rabble rabble miata owners are weird rabble rabble.

I suppose I should get one and then just cut out the oil filter area again. Oh, and all new hardware...
 
grandam-scc-homestead-2010-27-freedom-autosport-mazda-speed-3-jason-saini-dennis-trebing.jpg


I know this is a Pu and you have a Juan, but i think that its a safe bet that if the actual Grand Am race car didn't add any vents to the hood then it probably wont help.
 
Raider said:
So should factory mustangs get a reduction too then?
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Obviously you are new to the internet. Fwd torque steer is lame and rwd power oversteer means you have an enormous penis.

They should add boost to the mustang so that everyone that owns one can be like Ron Jeremy.

2016-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350-almost-crashes-during-nurburgring-testing-spin_5.jpg


See he got a little sideways and his penis grew so suddenly that is shot up into the steering wheel and kept him from recovering.
 
I vaguely recall something about needing a bigger top end speed disparity with the higher classes to make sure they could pass easily.
 
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